Rear wheel finally swapped.

[ZOA NOM]

 

[FJ12IRL]

I just used the rear wheel and sprocket carrier from a Thundercat 600..
So easy to do at home with a grinder and hand tools.

[Millietant]

I just used the rear wheel and sprocket carrier from a Thundercat 600..
So easy to do at home with a grinder and hand tools.

I was also surprised when people were saying here that the GSXR wheel swap was the simplest !!!!!!

But, with the Thundercat we do only get the 5" rear wheel, rather than the 5.5" and that can be an issue for some people.

[Pat Conlon]

Just do the complete Thunder Ace rear end swap, swinger and all....

[copper]

It's gotta be a fluke.

Otherwise, why wouldn't either the original aluminum swingarm mount bracket or a new welded one not crack before shearing a steel bolt? Seems a little counter-intuitive, at least, when looking at the meat of the old mount point.

Maybe your right, it is a fluke.

BS. Suzuki didn't deem it necessary to mount to the swingarm, so now that I see this, I feel better about my solution.

If it was good enough for Suzuki, hell it should be good enough for everyone. Just run it, whats the worst that can happen? Maybe you could die (thats bad )

[ribbert]

.....I was also surprised when people were saying here that the GSXR wheel swap was the simplest !!!!!!

Noel

[fj-f3a]

I still feel my "Z" shape, Off Set Torque Arm idea will work and be simple to manufacture and implement.
Something like this.



You will need to fabricate and weld some U shaped brackets to the ends of the torque arm for fixing to the existing mounting on top of the swing arm and the caliper.
Use a quality carbon steel for the arm and brackets, not stainless steel.
The gussets will add strength.

Gavin

[Millietant]

Just do the complete Thunder Ace rear end swap, swinger and all....

Oh yes, defo the ultimate option !!!! (But still not the "simplest" :-) :-))

[woodcreekpete]

OR:
  Take your original caliper bracket and cut it where the line is in the picture. Finished length should be 20mm shorter than original. Bevel out the areas that'll get welded. Clamp it or bolt it to a stiff piece of steel to keep the inner machined faces parallel. This ensures that the caliper will align properly with the rotor. Get someone qualified to weld the shit out of it. Make a new torque arm out of 1/4" steel or aluminum. Might need a bit of offset to line up properly.
That's it - simple, uses original caliper and hose. Cheap - cost me $25 Cdn. I've done 4 or 5 this way with no problems.

[ZOA NOM]

What's so hard about a couple spacers? I used washers. The GSXR requires no machining, welding, or fabrication of any kind. Just use the GSXR torque arm and attach it to a new bolt at the backside of the foot peg. Ride, repeat.

[MACHV]

Bracket installed. Bolt stress distributed.

Using the scrap on hand, I first made a cardboard model from the box my chain came in, to establish shape and clearance. Went from there. Had a strengthening wall welded (for free) where I wanted. Now the bolt has two sheer planes because it spans a bridge instead of having only one attach point. I refused to take the ass end apart right after putting it all back together and cleaning everything. Plus I was not interested in drilling or welding on the swingarm.

[MACHV]

Forgot a pic.

[Tuned forks]

Looks very sturdy.  Someone mentioned once that having the bolt in double shear really increases the strength of the connection.

Joe

[MACHV]

Looks very sturdy.  Someone mentioned once that having the bolt in double shear really increases the strength of the connection.

Joe

Well it made sense, then I studied and confirmed. The former method basically gave the torque arm a whole inch of leverage from where the bolt comes through the frame. Maybe not all the bolts on all the bikes are breaking but, I wasn't going to risk it. Never would have guessed that the above avg bolt might not be enough so...

Thanks to everyone for the input!