How many 530 chains are there? Need more advice, again...

[blackboat]

Rather embarrassingly, I failed to note the sorry state of the chain on my recently purchased '89 FJ1200. There was plenty of take up in the adjusters - in the wrong direction. They're basically all out of travel, chain sag can be measured in inches, and it's apparently destroyed the chain slipper for the swingarm. Ooops.

Discovered this when going to install new rear wheel and tire. I had been thinking to change sprockets down the road with the new 170/60-17 rear set up to 17 front, 39 rear. Apparently the time is now however.

Sprockets I can find, but the chain selection is confusing the heck out of me. With the 17/39 sprockets, it looks like I should be able to use the stock 110 link chain. But there are all sorts of different ratings for 530 chains. Plus, the Clymer manual I have calls for an endless chain, but various posts on this board and web vendor sites indicate that maybe this isn't strictly followed. I'd assume you'd need some sort of tooling to install a non-endless chain, but don't know if it's specific to each chain manufacturer or cost.

And since I've gone a bit overboard on mods for the new bike, money is a bit of a concern at this point.

I guess I'm looking for answers to the following questions:

1) Endless chain needed or not? Since I've got a good bit of the rear off, dropping the swingarm is no big deal if it saves money on chain tools.

2) What strength or grade of chain is needed? They seemed to be rated by engine displacement, which seems a bit vague given what the power difference can be between now and bikes of say 25 years ago. This is what is hanging me up most right now (do I need a $90 chain or a $200 one?). I understand that 2 $90 chains a year cost more than an expensive one that can last 3 years or more. This is maybe somewhat tempered by my low yearly mileage (3000) and I ride like your granny would. I have been researching this for the past 4 hours (thus the post), and am just at the point some part numbers and vendor would be much appreciated.

Sorry if I seem to be making hard work out of this; just kind of threw me out of whack from my plans of getting this wrapped up this weekend. At least I have the front I can work on tomorrow. Oh yeah, that and sketching up a new chain slipper; I think I've got enough UHMW laying around to come up with something. At least the good news is the swingarm isn't chewed up.

FWIW, I tried the Sprocket Specialists website since their name came up a couple of times here. Their website sucks and I gave up. May call them Monday now that it's pretty clear I'm not going to get anything shipped today (Sat).

And oddly enough, the rear sprocket doesn't look bad. Haven't cleaned it up enough to tell if it's stock size or maybe a replacement. Regardless, going to do chain and both sprockets. Just trying to calm down; the chain thing has me wondering what the hell else I've missed but will find soon enough.

Thanks,

Rob

[courtsdaddy]

Check out sprocket center website or call them very helpfull people.  I bought chain and sprocket kit which come with the correct size chain per you sprockets you order.  I also did alot of what your doing now(what do I buy) what me and my buddy came up with this is you life your talking about why go cheap.  The DID chain kit come with the rivet style masterlink and you will need to buy a motion pro tool or go to the local shop they will only charge 30 to 40 dollars to install the link but if you are going to do this make sure you tell sprocket center you want both types of links, throw the clip on and go to the shop and let them put the rivet on for you.  We used the tool very easy job to do. If I remember correctly the tensile strength was 10,500lbs which is bit over kill but I have put 600 mile on my new chain and still no adjustment yet.  My buddy got the cheaper one and he has made two adjustments already and we ride the same.  I paid 173.00 for the whole kit, came with everything I needed and I am very happy with the parts. My buddy rides an 84 and I ride the 89 and we do alot of trial and error type stuff and on this one the kit I got was the best deal for us.  His next chain will be from sprocket center.  Hope this helps.

[andyb]

Speaking as someone who has broken a $90 chain a bunch of times:

Spend the money.  I'd suggest a EK ZZZ, which aren't cheap, but will handle everything you can throw at it (and as a bonus, require adjustment less often).  However, you really need to replace your sprockets (front and rear!) at the same time as the chain, or life will be significantly shortened.

An "endless" chain just really means riveted.  Means it was done by machine, but unless you want to take the arm off to change it, wouldn't worry.  A good quality chain with a clip, rivet, or screw type master link properly installed]/i] will work very nicely.

Spend a little more than you really want to, get a brand that you trust, and don't worry it too much.  Then take care of it after you've put it on, and it should last a fair distance.

[markmartin]

+1 on the EK ZZZ.

[andyb]

Also:  110 links (stock length) should work without issue on a 17/39 gearing.  If you're concerned, but have the tools, you can always cut it shorter.

If you're buying new sprockets with the chain, consider going 18/42 though, as it'll wear a bit longer, and it's really quite close (but you will likely want to start with a 112 length to ensure you have enough chain).

[Arnie]

What AndyB says.  If you go 18/42 you WILL need 112 links.

Get a first quality O or X ring chain and both sprockets (steel, no alloy crap).  The EK ZZZ, DID ZVM2, or the RK GXW will all do fine.
The FJ has LOTS of torque and will stretch and mince a cheap chain.

Cheers,
Arnie

[blackboat]

OK, starting to make sense now. Nice suggestion on the 18/42; hadn't considered wear vs. sprocket size.

If I use the EK ZZZ chain, I just need a basic riveting tool then, or does their newfangled screw on type link work with this series?

Anyone know if Sprocket Specialties sells tools (not on website)? I'll call them first tomorrow AM; seems the prices I've seen mentioned are cheaper than I'm seeing on their web site (with what I THINK is the ZZZ chain, with the 18 & 42 sprockets in steel, shopping cart is at 244.40). Do they discount for sets, or I'm not comparing apples to apples?

BTW, my comments on SS website were just about that: their website, not the company. Had they not been recommended here I never would have considered them. I hope the company is as helpful as described and I can get this handled turn-key tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the answers, helped a lot.

And yes, I'll do the chain & sprockets together. I am cheap, but hopefully not stupid (though I guess the whole chain story has y'all wonderin').

Thanks again,

Rob

[rktmanfj]

I've never had a need for a specialized tool to install a rivet type master link.

Once the side plate is installed (a pair of needle nosed Vise Grips works fine for me), a few light taps with a center punch into the pins is all that is needed to secure it.  It doesn't take much to spread the pins enough, and some guys will go too far and overtighten the link.  Once the plate is on far enough to compress the o-rings a bit (not mash them completely flat) is just right.  Look at the o-rings on the factory installed links for a guide.

Randy T
Indy

[andyb]

The ZZZ does not appear to have a screw type link available.  Nor a clip link (!).  Rivets or nothing.  You can do it without the proper riveting tool, but honestly.... how many chains do you intend to change in your lifetime, and how much better will you feel knowing they've been correctly connected?  It may be a good idea to get the tool, even if you're a bit mean.  Depends on your faith in your work, and your history with doing things with the "wrong" tools.  (Don't own the tool myself, but I'd like one.)

Actually it looks like the screw-type links are only available for chains that are considered underrated for the FJ's engine size and weight.  (That being said, my SRX did ok, didn't last well because I parked the bike for 2 years and it rusted, but was ok when it was parked.)

Chains, tires, and brakes are really areas where you want to do things properly, may as well ensure that you're doing it right.  The 18/42 is definitely the way to go, make sure that you get the rear sprocket in steel rather than aluminum.  The FJ's torque tends to...uh... destroy things  While you're at it, you should take apart the sprocket carrier and inspect the cushdrive.  If it is a bit loose, you can use beer can pieces as shims to tighten it up a bit.

[blackboat]

Thanks andyb; I was coming to that conclusion on the links, but hadn't found anything conclusive yet on the web.

Tools (and parts) I don't have a problem buying. A 530 tool would also work on some of my old Honda's that haven't been converted to 520 yet. Heck, I've got the same kind of tools for my bicycles. I just have too many things going on all the time and a little advice and guidance for what's needed vs. what's overkill.

Will check out the cush drive: it's on the kitchen table and the new rear wheel is nearby. Easy enough, and gives me something else to do until I can get the chain & sprockets headed this way.

Appreciate everyone's help, think it's going to be OK now,

Rob

[FJ Flyer]

I'd been using a Tsubaki Omega chain.  And I'm one of the despised users of a clip master link.  Only have run it for about 90k miles, so you may have concerns that it won't hold.