Time to rebuild the carbs

[Pat Conlon]

....They recommended a fuel stabilizer but the name escapes me now.

Who's they?  RPM recommended a fuel stabilizer that neutralizes the effects of ethanol?

[ryanschoebel]

They recommended a fuel stabilizer but the name escapes me now.

They recommend K-100.

[Bob]

....They recommended a fuel stabilizer but the name escapes me now.

Who's they?  RPM recommended a fuel stabilizer that neutralizes the effects of ethanol?

I used to have a world of trouble with my carbs, had to clean / rebuilt them several times.  Started using Seafoam stabilizer several years ago. Haven't had a problem since.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Bob,

I recall years ago that you used to drain your carbs for the winter.  But you had trouble with the gaskets drying out and the needle tips getting hardened?

I thought you said you stopped draining them and that helped?  Do you still drain them or did I just dream this up?

[racerrad8]

....They recommended a fuel stabilizer but the name escapes me now.

Who's they?  RPM recommended a fuel stabilizer that neutralizes the effects of ethanol?

Yes, we have been using the K-100 products for more than a year now. It is added to every jug of fuel so that no matter what we put gas in it is stabilized.

They address the phase separation issue experienced with the metal gas tank of the FJ mounted above the engine. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17540.msg177013#msg177013

Randy - RPM

[ryanschoebel]

I used to have a world of trouble with my carbs, had to clean / rebuilt them several times.  Started using Seafoam stabilizer several years ago. Haven't had a problem since.

Seafoam is awesome, and i run it about every 2nd or third tank. But i don't think its meant for storing the carbs, or letting them sit, like the K-100 is. Or am I wrong there?

[Bob]

I used to have a world of trouble with my carbs, had to clean / rebuilt them several times.  Started using Seafoam stabilizer several years ago. Haven't had a problem since.

Seafoam is awesome, and i run it about every 2nd or third tank. But i don't think its meant for storing the carbs, or letting them sit, like the K-100 is. Or am I wrong there?

Not sure about long term storage, but our short riding season means it's common to have the bike sit idle for six to seven months at a time. Not have a stabilizer in the gas is what probably caused my problems in the first place.

[Tuned forks]

Did some cleaning on Fri. I also cleaned the manifold boots, installed the new O-rings and reinstalled the boots.
Was hoping the shim kit would arrive before I scooted for the weekend but no joy. This week will be dedicated to adjusting the valves. As two valves have less than .0015 clearance, Robert recommends setting a clearance, reassemble, bring engine to operating temp, cool down, disassemble and check those two valves again. Going to be a long ordeal.  Between the carbs rebuild/rejet, timing plate mod and the valve adjustment I'm really looking forward to a Dr Banner/Hulk transformation of my engine.

[Tuned forks]

BTW, the wiring for the timing plate was sandwiched under the starter.  The loom looks like it was squashed flat.  Is that where it is supposed to be?

[racerrad8]

The tracking number showed it out for delivery on Friday.

I'll have Robert check tomorrow and see if it was delivered.

Randy - RPM

[Tuned forks]

It was delivered after I had to leave.  Funny, UPS ground is next day between us but USPS Priority Mail is two days.  I got it when I came home this evening.  Haven't even opened the box yet.

[RPM - Robert]

BTW, the wiring for the timing plate was sandwiched under the starter.  The loom looks like it was squashed flat.  Is that where it is supposed to be?

Yes, that is where they were installed from the factory. They are two small wires and there is plenty of room there. The protective sleeve may looked crushed but it is much larger than the two small wires.

[Tuned forks]

Thanks Robert.

[Tuned forks]

So I did work on the FJ today but first there are things I've done and not written about.  The new carbs were mounted.  The return cable was a really special aspect to install.  I've got a pic of the location.  Someone with bear paws wouldn't be able to get in there.  Before running the engine. I thought it would be good to adjust the valves.  Good thing I did, cylinder 2 exhaust valves had less than .0015" clearance.  Not .015 but .0015"  That means they had about one thousands of an inch clearance.  A number of other valves needed shims too.  I've attached a chart.  I also installed the timing plate incorrectly.  Robert straightened me out on that.  After the carbs went on for the last time, I mounted the dual pod filters.  They are a tight fit and require a moderate tightening to avoid slipping off the carb necks.  Nice to have new filters protecting those bright, shiny carburetors. 

Lastly, tonight, I decided to safety wire the fuel petcock.  While I was at it though, it seemed a good idea to safety wire the mounting screws too.  Unfortunately they are phillips head screws.  So off to the local Ace hardware.  They have an excellent fastener section.  I was able to purchase two hex head, flanged M6x1.0 screws.  Then I brought them home and drilled the heads to accept safety wire.  I tried to do a nice job with the safety wire but it came out looking a bit funky.  Hopefully Aviation Fred and FJ1289 won't look too hard.  Pat, you've made another petcock convert.  You can sleep easy tonight. 

Everything is installed and running now.  The engine idles better, rolls off a stop smooth as budder, and accelerates through the gears sooooo nicely.  Yes, it has the freight train torque now that I have read about so often.  We haven't rolled thru the twistys yet but there will be a HI 84/Alice's Restaurant run soon.  Thank you to the Raduecals and also to all the members that chimed in with advice.

Joe