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Mad FJ · May 10, 2018, 06:00:39 PM

Hey guys I just purchased a 87 fj1200. It's in exelent condition motor runs strong. 50k miles on it. One thing tho the clutch slips at about 7k.... curious to see if anyone had a similar issue and is it a quick fix replacing the clutch disk and plates.... also after riding for a while at idle a little top end noise. Not all the time but I just did a yamalube oil change. 10/40 as I saw some recommendations to use that particular weight. Any advise would help as I'm a new owner. Thanks in advance

Pat Conlon · May 10, 2018, 06:55:28 PM

Welcome Maddie, FJ's are noisey engines, still, you want to check your valve shim clearances.
You may have a couple loose ones (better than tight ones) Your oil is fine.

Slipping clutch on a FJ? Never heard of it....
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.msg14307#msg14307

FJmonkey · May 10, 2018, 07:43:28 PM

Welcome Jessie, is your 87' still in it's ambulance colors?

Mad FJ · May 11, 2018, 11:22:23 AM

Quote from: FJmonkey on May 10, 2018, 07:43:28 PM
Welcome Jessie, is your 87' still in it's ambulance colors?

Mad FJ · May 11, 2018, 11:24:13 AM

Yes lol red and white

FJmonkey · May 11, 2018, 10:18:23 PM

I can't wait to get my 86' fixed up, I really like the Red/White and Red/Silver colors. Ownership takes on a new meaning when you attend your first rally.

dug844 · June 02, 2018, 03:05:24 PM

Although I have not recently purchased my 1993 Fj, I did recently get it running again (brake light short) and now have a clutch issue. When the engine gets hot in stop and go traffic here in San Antonio, the clutch seems to slip when I rev the engine to accelerate. So I twist the throttle the engine revs up to 6-7k then the clutch starts to begins "releasing" to engage the motor. In steady highway cruising that does not happen. Since it's a heat related issue I'm thinking it might be "secondary" master cylinder issue, where the clutch line connects to the engine. Fluid level is good, does probably need to be changed, being over 5 years old. I do have a braided steel lines for the clutch. No problems like this ever before and I'm gentle with the clutch, no crazy stuff. Any ideas?

Mike 86 in San Dimas · June 03, 2018, 06:56:32 PM

Welcome Mad. The clutch, whether DIY or have it done, is not a major fix. Then you'll be good for a long time. I fixed my noisy engine with ear plugs

. The bike runs so much better with them. Yeah these are just noisy, no coolant jackets to block the noise. What part of the world you from?
Mike

Mad FJ · July 18, 2018, 08:39:39 PM

I see thanks for the reply. Sorry it took so long to get back online. Always busy but ya I actually started using ear plugs, much quieter.

aviationfred · July 18, 2018, 11:15:29 PM

I have recently had similar issues with a slipping clutch. After bleeding the clutch multiple times, rebuilding the slave cylinder and replacing the clutch line, rebuilding the master cylinder and replacing the master cylinder diaphragm seal, I still had a slipping clutch after a week of riding. The solution was two fold. I found a slight nick in the aluminum where the master cylinder diaphragm seals. I can assume, letting a small amount of air in and over a weeks time, the clutch engagement point on the lever would creep out and lead to a slipping clutch. The fix.... I installed a Honda RC51 master cylinder. It has a 1/2" bore and the lever pull is effortless.

Fred

red · July 18, 2018, 11:35:30 PM

Quote from: Mad FJ on May 10, 2018, 06:00:39 PMHey guys I just purchased a 87 fj1200. It's in exelent condition motor runs strong. 50k miles on it. One thing tho the clutch slips at about 7k.... curious to see if anyone had a similar issue and is it a quick fix replacing the clutch disk and plates.... also after riding for a while at idle a little top end noise. Not all the time but I just did a yamalube oil change. 10/40 as I saw some recommendations to use that particular weight. Any advise would help as I'm a new owner. Thanks in advance

Mad FJ,

Welcome to the FJ sandbox. If you can get your hands on the FJ shop manual, there is a minimum spec for the total thickness of the clutch pack. One check, to say the clutch is done or good. Yamalube should not cause any clutch problem such as slipping. You can replace the clutch spring plate, or add a second clutch spring plate to the pack, if you want to take that approach. A whole new aftermarket clutch pack is usually cheaper than replacing a number of individual plates, if your present clutch pack does not measure up.

A little noise may be the cam chain, or the starter chain. The cam chain may need a new Cam Chain Tensioner, but neither case is likely with such a young motor. The FJ engine is fairly noisy, so either track down your noise source, or enjoy it as is. I run full synthetic oil, 20W-50, and mine is still a little noisy. Run some SeaFoam through the gastank now and then, to keep all of the carbs clean.

Fun runnin'!

oldktmdude · July 18, 2018, 11:42:54 PM

Can somebody please explain to me how air in the clutch system can cause it to slip? The way I understand the clutch system, that would have the complete opposite effect. Air will not hold the pressure on the pressure plate, allowing slippage.
Regards, Pete.

red · July 19, 2018, 12:18:43 AM

Quote from: oldktmdude on July 18, 2018, 11:42:54 PMCan somebody please explain to me how air in the clutch system can cause it to slip? The way I understand the clutch system, that would have the complete opposite effect. Air will not hold the pressure on the pressure plate, allowing slippage.
Regards, Pete.

Pete,

Just guessing here, but I imagine that if there is air in the clutch hydraulics, and that air gets heated and expands, it could cause enough pressure to partially release the clutch. Best bet: bleed the clutch system and see if things improve. I saw a bleeder banjo bolt (~US$10~$15) for the top of the hydraulic lines. That thing seems like it would be a great idea for the handlebar hydraulics, on both sides of the bike. Locally, a good hydraulics hose shop may have them for you.
.

Motofun · July 19, 2018, 05:54:45 AM

The key to bleeding brakes or clutch is to get the master cylinder free of any air first. It's messy but I just loosen the top banjo bolt at the master cylinder so it weeps. I do the usual bleeding technique at the MC by pushing the banjo tight upon lever release to prevent air from getting sucked back in. 2 or 3 strokes and it's good to go on to the slaves (after re-tightening the top banjo, of course). It's a bit messy so draping a wet towel underneath is recommended.

oldktmdude · July 19, 2018, 06:49:26 AM

Quote from: red on July 19, 2018, 12:18:43 AM
Quote from: oldktmdude on July 18, 2018, 11:42:54 PMCan somebody please explain to me how air in the clutch system can cause it to slip? The way I understand the clutch system, that would have the complete opposite effect. Air will not hold the pressure on the pressure plate, allowing slippage.
Regards, Pete.
Pete,

Just guessing here, but I imagine that if there is air in the clutch hydraulics, and that air gets heated and expands, it could cause enough pressure to partially release the clutch. Best bet: bleed the clutch system and see if things improve. I saw a bleeder banjo bolt (~US$10~$15) for the top of the hydraulic lines. That thing seems like it would be a great idea for the handlebar hydraulics, on both sides of the bike. Locally, a good hydraulics hose shop may have them for you.
.

Red, I see where you are coming from, but if the air expands it should pressurise the system enough to expel the clutch fluid back though the port in the master cylinder. Maybe if the port was blocked it might have enough pressure to hold the pressure plate partially away from the clutch plates but this seems highly unlikely. (at least to me)
Regards, Pete.

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