clutch woes v2

[iridewheelies]

i soaked the new frictions for a week ish, while i sorted out some parts for the fuel system and carbys. so i reinstalled the clutch pack along with the new pressure plate bearing. so i drop her down in first, (bike is off) (clutch pressure plate has good movement), it just seems that the plates are stuck together slightly. (which is odd because they are brand new!) i take a pic and dislodge the outermost plate (not much resistance atall) pull the clutch (good pressure and movement at lever) and the bike moves in first but is difficult to push, the inner clutch hub does rotate when the clutch plates unstick. i am running randy's clutch kit, (i have removed the "innerds" i.e stupid locking ring and dampening bushings in the old clutch pack), a double spring, and a vfr800 intercepter m/c. m/c and slave freshly rebuilt. i let go of the clutch, pull it again, and try to move the bike, nope, clutch hub is locked together and spinning together. after a couple back and forths, the bike will roll again, but with a lot of resistance. so, with my knowledge, with the clutch disengaged and the inner clutch hub/boss rotating, with the outer clutch hub staying put, the clutch is effectively cutting "power" from reaching the transmission/input shaft. right? this thing will work i know it. maybe the clutch needs to be ridden on more. I am rebuilding my rear caliper and have received a new rear m/c, so i will be able to use the rear brake while in 1st to hopefully free up the clutch for good, and achieve a clutch that will fully disengage and allow me to stay stopped with the clutch pulled in gear. i may be missing a few details, input from the community will always help me get this bike ready....guys its 70 degrees out today and i cant f****ing ride my bike!!!!!! what oil will best suit the clutch and bike overall? i think i had put rotella 15w40 diesel oil in it before for maybe 20 min runtime before i drained it due to a small fuel seepage. i will be bench syncing the carbs(and buying a manometer set), replacing needle and seats, setting fuel float levels and ensuring my idle circuits are all nice n clean. i still need to check the diaphragms..which may get costly, hopefully they are alright. i also will be putting needle shims in if they dont have adjustable needles. the bike has vance n hines 4 to 1, uni double filters, and is a completley stock motor to my knowledge...155 air jet (stock), 115 main jets, and 40 pilot jets. odo says 11,705 on the clock im sure emulsion tubes are fine... this bike has been a handful i am 18 and dont have a lifetime experience, so it has been quite a challenge for me. i do know what i am doing though. i want to put sum miles on her!!! i really appreciate all of the help. i did replace the bushing at the lever. there is good pressure at the lever and i have bled and bled the hydraulics. i have left the bars turned lever zip tied to the bars overnight. i do believe it is fully bled. i cant wait for success guys! i havent been able to get it out of first i have ridden the bike a total of 5 minutes in first; since i bought it, due to the clutch not disengaging but i do believe this will be the last time i pull the clutch cover for a while. the clutch definitely did NOT slip on that test ride. she pulled! it's on ages old chain and sprockets, but i will not replace them until i can shift through the gears. i assume it wouldn't upshift due to the clutch plates not spreading apart. itll go through the gears when it is off though. hoping it didnt sit for years and years because of a premature blown tranny. this is a long thread starter but will provide answers for a lot of questions for a lot of people. from what im seeing, some of these fj clutches can be a bi**h. thank you so much everyone! have a good day!! p.s, could the double spring contribute to this issue? causing the plates to lock together from the nearly doubled spring pressure??

[fj1289]

Anytime me I have an issue with something on the bike, I always try to go as stock as possible and get it working before modifying anything.   I would pull the second spring, but don't think that will really make a difference - but will rule it out.   

Are you sure the slave cylinder is good?  30 years of wear and corrosion or contamination can wreck the bore - rebuild kits aren't 100% because of that.  A new slave cylinder will last the probable life of the bike. 

[ribbert]

....it just seems that the plates are stuck together slightly.....pull the clutch ....and the bike moves in first but is difficult to push.....after a couple back and forths, the bike will roll again, but with a lot of resistance.....

I think I have the gist of what you are talking about here and it's normal. The FJ clutch does exactly that cold, sticks unless you rock it backward and forward in gear, clutch in, to release it before starting or crunch it into gear once the engine is running. Nothing to do with the age of the plates or oil.

Once that initial drag of the cold oil is broken, usually only the first start of the day, it will behave normally for any subsequent start.

You have so far described nothing abnormal. Stop worrying, start it up and see how the clutch runs under normal use.

IMO

Noel

[FJ_Hooligan]

What Noel said!  The clutch will behave much differently when the oil is hot.