Hello from England.

[Triumph GT6]

Hello, in the process of finding a bike we could do with a few dry days.

So current options
93' FJ1200 38000miles £1250
90' FJ1200 50000miles £1795

John.

[Pat Conlon]

Welcome John...I'm a fan of the rubber mount '91-'95's

You blokes have some harsh riding conditions over there... so my choice would depend on the condition of the bike.

Cheers laddie!

Pat

[Triumph GT6]

Thanks Pat it seems to be plenty of snow plus rain, the cheaper bike I would prefer bar risers, so what is 10000 miles worth.

The cheaper bike has 10 owners which seems a lot to me, advisories on the front suspension, will check for seals weeping.

Anything else I should be looking at chain, fenders 2nd gear function.

Welcome John...I'm a fan of the rubber mount '91-'95's

You blokes have some harsh riding conditions over there... so my choice would depend on the condition of the bike.

Cheers laddie!

Pat

[Pat Conlon]

John, you being in the UK have access to some of the best FJ experts on this planet (note: I said "some of" not all) http://www.fjclub.co.uk/

http://www.fjclub.co.uk/#/buying-a-fj/4546920434
http://www.mcnews.com/mcnews/articles/fj1100.htm
http://www.fj1200.info/2nd-hand.htm

Happy reading!

[Triumph GT6]

Thanks Pat......

[FJmonkey]

Welcome John. 10K is not much on these engines. Some have 300K with out rebuild.

[GS Jockey]

Hi John, and have a welcome from England.

As for the two bikes, I'm a bit biased myself having a 3CV ('89, the model being 88-89/90 in UK), but the 3XW, the '93 bike I'm assured is a worthy machine. However, there are a few differences.

The 3XW has a rubber mounted engine, which I'm told does smooth out the vibes found on the earlier ones. And many owners say the headlamp is better. Later ones had ABS, but consensus seems to be 'Get it removed'.
On the down side, apparently Mr Yamaha started getting a bit cheap with the 3XW, which has no damping adjustment on the front forks. Not sure about pre-load. They also fitted a steel swinging arm, which rusts away, whereas the earlier models had an Aluminium (you can tell I'm English, I spelled 'Aluminium' correctly... ) which doesn't rust. Fitting an Ally item is a 'must do' mod for many 3XW owners.

Any 'Mods' been done on either of these 'bikes that you know of? The rear suspension is not known for longevity, and would be well past due for renewal on either of these 'bikes. Hagon, Nitron,  Ohlins and RPM are four names to look for on upgraded shocks. Front suspension too gets upgraded, with many going for 'progressive' springs, an a play about with oil weights. Or the sensible ones among us just fit the RPM valves and springs.  

What about brake upgrades? You'll hear talk of 'Blue Spots', 'Silver Spots' and even 'Gold Spots'. These refer to three different front calipers that can be fitted direct. Upgraded hoses (to stainless steel braided) are a must do (do you want to put your trust in 24 year old rubber hoses?), and many owners swap to a more modern front master cylinder.

And any service history? That is the most important thing to consider when you think about mileage. On a well looked after engine, 50k miles is nothing on one of these bikes. If you mention 75k, many will comment 'Just about run in then'.   And remember, the youngest of these two is coming up 24 years old. The 'official' average mileage for a 'bike in the UK is 4000 pa, so neither of these bikes can seriously be considered 'high mileage'.

As I hinted, do a bit of research on these, or any others you might consider. And ask questions. You can do that here, or on the UK site:

http://www.fjfjrbiker.co.uk/index.php?action=forum

And remember, the only 'Daft/Silly/Stupid' question is the one you don't ask...

But, if you do go ahead and buy one, then welcome to the world of FJ ownership. Many bikers dismiss the FJ as old, heavy and uninteresting; however you'll have just bought one of the best 'bikes ever made. As they say...'The truth is out there...'

Dave.


Just one more thing...

I can't say this strongly enough; I've mentioned several available upgrades previously, and there is an affliction amongst FJ owners which is very contagious. It's known as 'Moditis', and there's no known cure. I count myself amongst those who 'suffer' from this affliction. But on the plus side, just read about/ look at some of the bikes belonging to 'sufferers'.

[PaulG]

The 3XW has a rubber mounted engine, which I'm told does smooth out the vibes found on the earlier ones.

If you experience vibes through the pegs or bars - first make sure the carbs are balanced and and valves shimmed correctly - proper tires-  if it persists then remove rubber mounts, clean and grease - usually neglected by many POs

Later ones had ABS, but consensus seems to be 'Get it removed'.

Not so fast! If it ain't broke why remove the best safety blanket a bike could have?  I have 230,000km on a 92ABS and it still works fine. Though many others have not have the same luck. Unless you're an expert troubleshooter in the possibility that it doesn't work, many just remove it to avoid the hassle. Can also shed 20-30lbs in hardware so I've heard.

They also fitted a steel swinging arm, which rusts away, whereas the earlier models had an Aluminium which doesn't rust. Fitting an Ally item is a 'must do' mod for many 3XW owners.

This is probably due more to road conditions than parts quality.  I understand they used to salt the shit out of English roads in the "winter" there - which would definitely degrade most steel components if you were able/willing to ride through it.  But if moditis takes hold... (see below)

The rear suspension is not known for longevity, and would be well past due for renewal on either of these 'bikes. Hagon, Nitron,  Ohlins and RPM are four names to look for on upgraded shocks.

After brakes probably the next thing to upgrade if it's not shot already.

Front suspension too gets upgraded, with many going for 'progressive' springs, an a play about with oil weights. Or the sensible ones among us just fit the RPM valves and springs.  

And don't forget about the fork brace. Saves the fender mount tabs from breaking due to flex and helps handling. RPMs is primo.

What about brake upgrades? You'll hear talk of 'Blue Spots', 'Silver Spots' and even 'Gold Spots'. ....Upgraded hoses (to stainless steel braided)

Definitely SS brakes lines are a must. Caliper upgrades from R6/R1 are plug & play.

It's known as 'Moditis', and there's no known cure.

Be careful. What starts out as sensible basic upgrades can escalate to a 12 step program.

BTW happy New Year

[ribbert]

If you experience vibes through the pegs or bars - first make sure the carbs are balanced and and valves shimmed correctly - proper tires-  if it persists then remove rubber mounts, clean and grease - usually neglected by many POs

Paul, I'd reckon vibes on those models are always going to be the mounts. I'm yet to hear of one where they weren't seized. All those other things you mention may contribute to rough running but none of them will give you vibration and buzziness like the engine mounts.

I'd suggest doing them regardless. Particularly if a new owner doesn't know just how smooth they can be.

Noel

[PaulG]

If you experience vibes through the pegs or bars - first make sure the carbs are balanced and and valves shimmed correctly - proper tires-  if it persists then remove rubber mounts, clean and grease - usually neglected by many POs

Paul, I'd reckon vibes on those models are always going to be the mounts. I'm yet to hear of one where they weren't seized. All those other things you mention may contribute to rough running but none of them will give you vibration and buzziness like the engine mounts.

I'd suggest doing them regardless. Particularly if a new owner doesn't know just how smooth they can be.

Noel

Yep. I guess I was just relating the process I went through before I found out about the rubber mounts.  So if Triumph does it bass ackwards from what I did then he'll be in great shape!     Just to note: I stripped 6 pullers on the right and 4 on the left mounts getting them out. They're easy and cheap to make, so make up a bunch just in case.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Just to clarify, the RUBBER mounts are on the frame members, do NOT attempt to remove these.  The mounts that corrode, seize and cause vibration are the metal collars located down on the two front motor bosses. 

The inner collar is what you want to remove.  DO NOT use a hammer or other high force means as you can break the boss off the motor.  Build the recommended puller and use it!

[Triumph GT6]

Many Thanks gentlemen for some helpful information, it is with much joy that I have found an 89 FJ with plenty of modifications.

John.