1989 FJ1200 Suspension settings

[Scooterbob]

Any tips on setting up the suspension? I'm a 250 pound guy and will occasionally carry a second passenger, but mainly just me and a tank bag.  The guy I bought the bike from is maybe a buck fifty soaking wet, so I'm guessing the suspension is set a little out of my optimum range.  Anyone have a general setup they'd recommend?

[andyb]

Make sure everything is actually working (forks have enough, correct, and clean oil, linkages aren't binding, etc) and then max everything out.  The FJ is pretty soft from the factory at both ends.  Most riders at that size will do ok like this.  The FJ's adjustment range isn't huge as far as the damping goes, either.

If you want to start really improving it, start looking through the multitude of available modifications.

[Scooterbob]

So front forks on the hardest setting and then the rear shock on #5?  is that about it?  Or is there some other adjustments?

[Fudge]

The best thread on this I have read is here:  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=764.msg6120#msg6120

More than likely your stock FJ suspension won't get you to the right sag settings.  I'm about 150 and I opted for a new shock and fork springs to get it set right.  Well worth the effort.

[Harvy]

Any tips on setting up the suspension? I'm a 250 pound guy and will occasionally carry a second passenger, but mainly just me and a tank bag.  The guy I bought the bike from is maybe a buck fifty soaking wet, so I'm guessing the suspension is set a little out of my optimum range.  Anyone have a general setup they'd recommend?

HI Bob, I'm another in the "buck fifty soaking wet" league, and like my bikes suspension set at what some would consider quite hard.
BUT
I have my rear shock (yep I'm another on the "attempting to budget a Penske sport shock" list.... I wonder if a 'group buy' is somewhere in our future) set to maximum preload and maximum damping.
I have Racetech internals up front set quite hard (I can't remember what the shimstack is set to) and use 15wt oil in the forks......
Having the rear end set at maximum is ideal for me (given the limitations of an OEM shock working with an FZ1 swingarm/rearwheel combination) in the above configuration.

Your '89 has a slightly stronger spring OEM than my '91. and a different mount and mounting position and damping adjustment mechanism.

just me 2 cents worth mate.

Harvy

[Scooterbob]

Appreciate all the tips. I will attempt setting it all later today.

[candieandy]

you can really max out the rear shock with this tip.

set the shock to level 5. then unbolt the shock adjuster, rotate it back to 1 and bolt back on. then crank it back up to 5.

i weight 280 and carry my girlfriend all the time. it worked great.

[Scooterbob]

Ok, made all adjustments recommended.  Still does not feel right.  No sure what it is, but the front just is not responding how I think it should.  I'm guessing that I need to go through the front shocks and make sure it's all clean and swap out the oil.  Never attempted this before.....

Anyone live around the Houston way that would be willing to lend a helping hand to a fellow FJ rider?  Beer provided!  

[andyb]

Air inside the tires?  Tread on the outside of the tires? 

Past that it's really not all that difficult to clean things up and get them working as well as can be expected from stock.

[Scooterbob]

Tires are nearly new and pressure verified yesterday. 
I would just like someone to monitor/help on a fork teardown.  Just to make sure I get it right, without doing it three or four times.

[markmartin]

Hey Bob,

I'm no motorcycle mechanic, but I can get you started--other members who know more than I will chime in if I'm leading you down the wrong path.

I think a little more info is needed.

are they too hard or too soft?

Are your fork seals OK? Leaking? I'm assuming not or you would have mentioned it. However, fork oil level could be low.

Do you know if you have stock springs? (the stock springs tend to be too soft for most people.)

Have you played with the preload and damping adjusters at the top of the fork tubes yet?

If you don't have a clymers or a haynes FJ service and repair manual, there is a '86 owners maual in
the files section of this forum that shows how these adjustments can be made. (the 86 forks are slightly different than yours but this top adjuster is and works the same)
Basically there is a damper adjuster and a spring preload adjuster that will give you some options.


Changing the fork oil is a good idea anyway----  You'll have to prop your bike up at the frame in front of the center stand while it's on it's center stand (pic below--I got the frame stand idea from David Raforth) or suspend it from above.  You don't need to pull the wheel off like in the pic, just careful not to get fork oil on your brakes.

You'll need a 27mm hex head wrench to pull the caps off the top of the fork tubes.  You can use the nut from your rear axle and large adjustable wrench or make your own David Raforth 27mm wrench(tm) --pic below.  Directions on how to make one are in the files section under FJ modifications, fork upgrade instructions.  It does work very very well.

If your interested in this procedure, just post--someone will walk you through it.

Mark

[pdxfj]

If you're going to do an oil change on the forks I would highly suggest replacing the fork seals and dust caps at the same time.  Since you have no idea the last time they were done the seals may not be able to handle the new oil and will likely start leaking.  I've seen this happen a few times.

Heavier springs are a must, and go with 15w oil.  Only use OEM Yamaha seals.  The "leak proof" brand are anything but leak proof.

[Scooterbob]

Mark- The fork seals are not leaking in any way.  I just am going by how much the person before me abused the bike and did not do regular maintenance.  No doubt the oil in the forks needs changed.  I have the manual and have read through the general process.  Just seems a little intimidating at first is all.  Thanks for all the great tips and photos.

pdxfj - I will have to order the dust caps and fork seals.  Sounds like a good idea.  I'm sure it's posted somewhere, but any recommended "heavier springs" brands and dealers?  Maybe this Zanottis dealer everyone recommends?

[markmartin]

I agree with pdxfj that it's a good idea to change the seals and dustcap.  If you're going this far, I'd change the bushings (upper and lower) also.  This was recommended to me by the group a few weeks ago when I was going to upgrade my forks and I'm glad I did it.  Once your there, it's no big deal, just another step. 

As andyb said the factory springs are pretty soft.  You may be able to slow this down with heavier fork oil but just so much. I guess we're assuming you've got the factory springs in the forks now>?   The conventional wisdom that I've gathered here is a straight rate 1.0kg spring.  Personal preference I'm sure—I think some still like a progressive spring , similar but stronger than yours.  At 250lbs, you may want the next step up which I think is 1.15kg?.  Others here will know better about this. This alone may very well fix your problem if you're finding the front end mushy.  When I got mine, after the first ride I installed a straight 1.0kg and have been very happy with that.  Race tech and Sonic are 2 brands of springs  that I know of.

All that said, changing the seals (that aren't leaking) dust-cap, and  bushings are going to run you some more cash, and while very doable and good maintenance, it will be twice as much work as changing the oil and springs.   Let us know which way you want to go and we'll help you out—I, like you, was a fork breakdown virgin until a couple of weeks ago.  Got some good advice from the group and everything went smooth. Some basic tools, a service and repair manual for reference, a warm place to work (Texas??that should be easy) and a weekend with no interruptions and you're all set. 

[andyb]

First:  How do you know the seals aren't leaking?  If it's had little to no upkeep done, it wouldn't suprise me that the fork seals are leaky, but they don't leak because the oil is all long gone.

Second:  A 1.15kg spring would be probably overkill.  You should be able to get a 1.05 though.  My opinion is get the stock stuff working correctly before you assess what you need.  You'll be out the cost of seals and dust caps, and probably bushings too, but they'd all need replaced even if you did swap to a different spring.  Further, you can do the springs without taking the entire mess apart again, so it's a one time deal (unless you go to cartridge emulators, which require tearing it back down).

Because the oil type/level doesn't alter your sag any, you may want to get a measurement for the sag before you take it apart.  Then with some guessing and some math and some more guessing, you can make spacers to increase the preload on the springs that you have.  It's not the right answer, but unless you're using the bike on a racetrack or doing exceptionally hard riding with it, it may well be enough.

Throw maintenance and brains at it before you throw money at it.  Both ways work, but one is cheaper.