FFFFF... Floats...

[JPaganel]

I learned the hard way that the first thing you need to do is make sure the halves of the float are level with each other.

[FjLee]

This is all excellent info (Thank you Lee)!
It is something that I've had in my mind to check and adjust the next time I had to get into the carbs (which happens to be Now).
One thing that I'm going to have to experiment with, is exactly HOW to take this measurement?

With the procedures that you have described, this would work perfectly for a gravity-fed FJ. With mine being a fuel-pump model, I'm going to have to introduce the output pressure of the pump into the mix as I attempt to get fuel level set properly..............................

Hi Alan.........
I would think that for "checking" the fuel level, the pump wouldn't make any difference.  As far as "adjusting" the fuel level in 1 or more carbs of a pump-equipped FJ, I've wondered a bit abt. that myself.  My Haynes manual covers the 1200's thru 1993, and it doesn't differentiate tween the two systems as far as instructions go, except for the actual stating of the fuel level.  For the 1200's, it sez "2.5 to 3.5 MM"  Iffen a pump equipped model was mine, I'd probably set the fuel level at 2.0MM.  But I've never done a hands-on fuel level check/adjust on a pump equipped model, so be careful abt. listening to me.

FJLee...Denver CO...1984 FJ1100...2016 Suzuki 1255 Bandit

[Flynt]

I will rather send it to someone that knows what to do.

Send to RPM...  done deal!

Frank

[X-Ray]

We can see that from your avatar....

Yeah, thanks Photobucket for that. They have decided that if you use their site to store photos and you want to link the images to forums etc ( like here), they want $399.00 per year to do that.  Stuff that, off to find another host and will then have to try to relink images etc,

[balky1]

We can see that from your avatar....

Yeah, thanks Photobucket for that. They have decided that if you use their site to store photos and you want to link the images to forums etc ( like here), they want $399.00 per year to do that.  Stuff that, off to find another host and will then have to try to relink images etc,

At this forum you don't need a third party image hosting. Update the photos to this forums gallery and just link them where you want.
As for floats, I don't have the solution, but I can relate to the problems. After changing the needles and seats two years ago, I couldn't get the bike to run properly wit misfiring when opening the throttle. I fiddled with floats a lot and nothing until I took the bike to a bike doctor.    It ended up to be one of the intake boots vacuum leak, which I didn't detect with methods from this forum. He fixed that, set the floats (a bit rich I'd say, but what do I know) and  .

[jdvorchak]

I am really surprised that no one mentioned the O-rings on the float valve seat. In my experience, when Mikuni's dribble fuel out of the overflow, the first thing to check is the float bowl measurement. On these BS36's should be set at 23mm. If they leak then the next thing is to replace those O-rings. If they aren't leaking now they will. A combination of heat, from a heat gun, and plenty of carb cleaner will help pulling those seats out. Add plus is that you can check the little screens at the input of the float seat. This assumes that the needles are clean and making a tight seal on the seat itself.

Actually when you pull the float bowls, unless you've replaced those O-rings, that should be your first priority. As I said. If they aren't leaking now they will.

[JPaganel]

I am really surprised that no one mentioned the O-rings on the float valve seat.

Been there, done that, still have a bag of o-rings on my workbench.

[jdvorchak]

I am really surprised that no one mentioned the O-rings on the float valve seat.

Been there, done that, still have a bag of o-rings on my workbench.

Do yourself a favor and throw them away. I was teaching my youngest son how I rebuild carbs. Since I hate removing and re-installing the O-rings on the fuel and vent Tee's I had him do it. I turned my back for a minute and saw the number of new O-rings had increased. I asked which are the new ones and which are old? It took us a few minutes and a magnifying glass to figure it out. From then on I had him throw the old ones away while he still had them in his hand from removal. 

[JPaganel]

Do yourself a favor and throw them away. I was teaching my youngest son how I rebuild carbs. Since I hate removing and re-installing the O-rings on the fuel and vent Tee's I had him do it. I turned my back for a minute and saw the number of new O-rings had increased. I asked which are the new ones and which are old? It took us a few minutes and a magnifying glass to figure it out. From then on I had him throw the old ones away while he still had them in his hand from removal. 

I toss the old ones right away. This is a bag of leftover new ones. 

[stou]

Just to be sure, what is the reference point for the level when using a clear tube?

In the Haynes manual, it is indicated "The level should be 2.0-4.0mm above the line on the carbutetor float bowl" I can't see no line on the float bowl. Is it the bowl edge?

[X-Ray]

Just started checking the fuel levels on my '94 carbs yet again. The book calls for 3mm +- 1mm from the carb base. I set the measurement at these points. usually just in line with the bowl washer and call it a day. Runs well like this.

[Tuned forks]

That is a really clever setup.

Joe

[X-Ray]

Thanks Joe. From memory I copied this idea from a Kawasaki forum, it works well. Just put some pieces of wood under whichever end if you want to set angles etc for carbs mounted on bikes etc ( I usually just leave it level), and away you go.    

[stou]

Thanks for the info X-Ray! And in did, very nice setup! I did mine with a 2x4. Not looking as good as your's, but it do the job!

[stou]

Before I will check the level with clear tubes, I want to do a first check with the level of the floats with a gauge. But I was looking at the floats and I wonder where I must take the measure.



The lower part of the float is at the #2 place on the picture but is it really where the level should be measure or at the #1 place?

Also I bought carburetors rebuild kit like the one RPM website. I bought localy because they was available with one day free shipping. They are exactly like this one:



Everything is good exept the pilot jets that I ordered at RPM with other stuff. But this main jet needle is shorter than the one I have in those BS36. Do I need to keep my Mikuni needle or use the one in the kit?