Gas leak from engine, hole in case?!

[Tekime]

Hello gurus,

I discovered a puddle under the FJ today that smells strongly of fuel. There is a steady drip coming from a tiny hole by alternator cover.. 

She's been stored in my shed and only started a few times the last few months. I started it up a few days ago, let it warm up and idle for a few minutes, then turned it off. Just noticed the leak and puddle today.

The carbs need a cleaning and they have stuck open before, but they leaked out of the overflow. No other signs of trouble or leaking until now.

My only guess is that the carbs kept dumping gas into the engine - hence the fuel smell.

Somebody please tell me that little hole is supposed to be there!!

Any advice?

[racerrad8]

You are correct. If you have fuel coming out of there, then the engine is full of gasoline mixed with the oil.

That is the crank seal that is leaking and dropping out of the weep hole.

Do not run the engine.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Sorry to see this Gabe...Carb cleaning time time!  Oh boy, ain't it fun?

While you're in there, get this from RPM: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit&cat=24  All the goodies you need for $22
Throw those soft JIS screws away and use Randy's SS Allen head screws (in the kit)
Don't forget to install the new float needle seat O rings (also in the kit)

Do you guys have Ethanol (E10) in your gas in Maine? I have not yet found an additive that will neutralize that shit.
http://www.samscycle.net/Storage-warning-local-gas.html

With your fuel pump on your '89 you will also want to check that no fuel is dribbling out the fuel pump when the pump is off.

Report back your progress. Stay warm.  Pat

[red]

. . . Do you guys have Ethanol (E10) in your gas in Maine? I have not yet found an additive that will neutralize that shit.
http://www.samscycle.net/Storage-warning-local-gas.html  . . . Pat

In the USA,, you can check on this link, for a list of gas stations in your state that sell non-ethanol gasoline:

http://www.pure-gas.org/

Cheers,
Red

[Tekime]

Thanks all!! Whew, I'm just relieved that weep hole is supposed to be there, I was a bit alarmed and thought the alternator was supposed to be dry.

Already ordered Randy's carb kit last year and just haven't gotten around to it. My DR350 rebuild has consumed all my wrenching time this winter.

I've been starting her up every few weeks - maybe a month at the longest. Always turned right over. No leaks until now, but the carbs have stuck open before - mostly just dumped gas all over my driveway last summer.

Looks like I'll be flushing the oil, cleaning those carbs & hoping for the best. Do you think this is a sure sign the crank seal needs replacing too? Or a symptom of overfilling?

Thanks again, this is a huge help. Now I don't have to cry myself to sleep tonight. 

[racerrad8]

That's not the alternator. The is the cover for the pickup coils.

The alternator is in the 2 o'clock position from that cover. It's the other polished cover.

Randy - RPM

[ribbert]

That's not the alternator. The is the cover for the pickup coils.

The alternator is in the 2 o'clock position from that cover. It's the other polished cover.

Randy - RPM

Just a bit of trivia, I believe the FJ was one of the first, if not the first, to relocate the alternator off the end of the crankshaft, thereby narrowing the engine considerably, a lead that everyone else followed.

IMO

Noel

[ribbert]

I've been starting her up every few weeks - maybe a month at the longest.

There are many reasons why this is not good practice, this is one of them. Multiple, consecutive cold starts without riding it is the worst thing you can do to an engine (the only positive perhaps is the joy of hearing it running in the middle of a long cold Winter!)

"Do you think this is a sure sign the crank seal needs replacing too? Or a symptom of overfilling?"

Petrol is much thinner than oil. If the seal hasn't leaked oil before, chances are it won't again once the fuel is drained off. If it leaks once the oil is changed, replace it, if it doesn't, don't, until such time as it does.

IMO

Noel

[4everFJ]

Do you guys have Ethanol (E10) in your gas in Maine? I have not yet found an additive that will neutralize that shit.

This will:

http://www.frost.co.uk/ethomix-corrosion-inhibitor-additive-ethanol-protection.html

The best stuff you can get.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Just a bit of trivia, I believe the FJ was one of the first, if not the first, to relocate the alternator off the end of the crankshaft, thereby narrowing the engine considerably, a lead that everyone else followed.

The first Yamaha with the alternator behind the cylinder was the 1980 Maxim 650.  I believe that was followed by the Seca motors and the FZ750 (with forward slanted cylinders).  I don't believe my 1982 XJ1100 had the alternator relocated but it did have the YICS intake plumbing which was originally destined for the FJ but deleted when the 4 valve FJ head proved to have plenty of flow and turbulence.

[Tekime]

I've been starting her up every few weeks - maybe a month at the longest.

There are many reasons why this is not good practice, this is one of them. Multiple, consecutive cold starts without riding it is the worst thing you can do to an engine (the only positive perhaps is the joy of hearing it running in the middle of a long cold Winter!)

Why is that? The carbs were already in dire need of cleaning, and have stuck open even during regular summer riding. Just wondering why a half dozen or so cold starts during the winter is worse than letting it sit?

"Do you think this is a sure sign the crank seal needs replacing too? Or a symptom of overfilling?"

Petrol is much thinner than oil. If the seal hasn't leaked oil before, chances are it won't again once the fuel is drained off. If it leaks once the oil is changed, replace it, if it doesn't, don't, until such time as it does.

IMO

Noel

I was hoping that was the case! No signs of leaking before - and I know gas can be helpful to test valve leakage due to thinness. Cool, I'll just start with the basic cleanup and see how things go!

[FJ_Hooligan]

It you simply start it up and run it for a few minutes then shut it down, you'll build up condensation (water) in the oil. 

If you only start it periodically, do it on a day where you can ride it a few miles and bring it up to temperature or keep it running using a fan until it gets up to operating temperature.  Getting the oil up to temperature will prevent water accumulation.

[FJmonkey]

It you simply start it up and run it for a few minutes then shut it down, you'll build up condensation (water) in the oil. 

If you only start it periodically, do it on a day where you can ride it a few miles and bring it up to temperature or keep it running using a fan until it gets up to operating temperature.  Getting the oil up to temperature will prevent water accumulation.

To add to this, the main goal is to consume enough fuel to flush out the carbs and jets. Bring it to temp is what I do with a fan so it can stay at temp for 5 to 10 min. Fresh(er) fuel in the carbs, time to evaporate and off-gas the water vapor. No problems when its time to ride.

[Pat Conlon]

To add to this, the main goal is to consume enough fuel to flush out the carbs and jets. Bring it to temp is what I do with a fan so it can stay at temp for 5 to 10 min. Fresh(er) fuel in the carbs, time to evaporate and off-gas the water vapor. No problems when its time to ride.

You're just replacing the old gas in the carbs with the old gas from your tank.
Drain the tank and carbs and store it dry, or store it with non ethanol fuel.

[4everFJ]

To add to this, the main goal is to consume enough fuel to flush out the carbs and jets. Bring it to temp is what I do with a fan so it can stay at temp for 5 to 10 min. Fresh(er) fuel in the carbs, time to evaporate and off-gas the water vapor. No problems when its time to ride.

You're just replacing the old gas in the carbs with the old gas from your tank.
Drain the tank and carbs and store it dry, or store it with non ethanol fuel.

Or use a good quality fuel stabilizer. I do that and have never had any issues after storing a bike with gas in the tank for 3-4 months during the winter.