carb cleaning

[yamahopper]

An ultrasonic cleaner will bust all of the junk out of your carbs and loosen a lot of stuck hardware. I wish I had taken pictures of some carbs that were brought to me. Ugly nasty things. Rotten gas smelled up my shed for weeks. The cleaners will bust up the junk in even the smallest passages and the solutions will not eat up the throttle shaft seals. Harbor Freight has a good selection of inexpensive units, go for the most powerful and largest capacity unit.
If you get one cozy up to one of the Amway folks and get some L.O.C. and use that for your bath.
Then blow out everything with compressed air and reassemble.

[fjrpierre]

Day 4 everything clean and being reassemble. couple of questions...

Q1 My kit comes with 6 larger fuel o rings and i have the following fuel connectors  between carbs ( total 12 on the three metal connectors and and total 4 on the two plastic connectors). Am I missing something or should I just go buy some more?



Q2 on removing one of the idle screw assy needles the tiny gasket at the bottom is partialy damaged. Any thoughts? (like use gasket goo to glue the little broken piece back on or

[Pat Conlon]

Dunno Eric, we've heard stories from you east coast folks about Dean's old FJ.....

Garth, Im pretty sure thats the worst looking carb I have ever seen.

Eric M

[rktmanfj]

Dunno Eric, we've heard stories from you east coast folks about Dean's old FJ.....

Well, this one time at the FJ Rally...

[SlowOldGuy]

Pierre,
How old is your carb kit?  In the last few years, I have included new o-rings for the idle mixture screws.  Send me your address and I'll put a set in an envelope for you.

The transfer tube and breather o-rings are usually in fairly good condition.  Since the fuel transfer tubes have double o-rings, and to keep cost down, I only include 6 o-rings and recommend that if any of them need replaced to use the new o-rings in the first groove on the tube.  The breather (plastic) tees are not that critical.  If any of them need replacement, then move one from the transfer tube and replace with a new o-ring.

Or, I'll gladly add 6 more to the envelope if you want to wait on it.

DavidR.
d-raforth@raytheon.com

[fjrpierre]

Thanks Dave that explains the o rings and yes I now notice the little tiny o rings for the idle mixture screws that you did include!  (whew that saves me some heartache) 

And those bits I had left over, the tiny headless hex bolts; on closer inspection I now figured out are to replace the 4 little choke screws!

I also notice you included 8 replacement bolts for the slide needle plate bolts w lock washers, but removing these are not mentioned in the cleaning instructions. Is there any "cleaning" reason for me to take that bit apart?

So all is well parts wise and I just need to reinstall on the bike and do the adjustments. Your bench sync instructions taught me what a real sync does...I love it when a plan comes together!

[SlowOldGuy]

I also notice you included 8 replacement bolts for the slide needle plate bolts w lock washers, but removing these are not mentioned in the cleaning instructions. Is there any "cleaning" reason for me to take that bit apart?

Pierre,
Unless the needles are corroded or extremely dirty, there's no "cleaning" need to disassemble the slide.

However, being that you own a Canadian unit with adjustable slide needles, if you did any needle position experimentation, you'd find that the phillips head screws on the slide plate are just as easy to strip as the others.  In fact, they are so small that they appear to be a #1 phillips size.  In reality, they are a #2 phillips size and inadvertently using a #1 screwdriver will strip them real quick (not that I ever did it, at least not twice :-)).

So, take a little extra time and install the 8 allen heads (and lockwashers) in there "just in case."  Otherwise you'll probably misplace them by next week.  :-)

DavidR.

[fjrpierre]

>>>(So, take a little extra time and install the 8 allen heads (and lockwashers) in there "just in case."  Otherwise you'll probably misplace them by next week.  :-)

done; the misplacing arguement was the clincher. (And the tip on the #2 philips, not a #1 was right on!)

[fjrpierre]

Day 5 I'm reinstalling carb on the bike and have a few question (don't you know). So there are 7 lines to reconnect, the braided fuel line, 4 bundled (vacuum?) lines each connected to a tube at the bottom rear of carb by the lower bracket and two (breather?) lines connected to the plastic tees. I've numbered each on disassembly so I think I know where each goes.

Assuming that's right, where do you eventually connect the vacuum tubes of your carb sync tool? It's looks a pain/impossible to disconnect the vacuum lines/connect the syn lines when the carb is back in its operational position. What am I missing?

 

[Arnie]

Pierre,

You connnect you vacuum guages to the vacuum taps that are on the intake manifolds.  Each of them has a rubber cap with a clamping spring around it.  First remove the clamp and then pull the rubber cap off.  They are very easy to get to once you've removed the fuel tank and seat.

I think the early FJ's may have used one of these for the fuel petcock vacuum supply

Hope that helps,

Arnie

[fjrpierre]

well doh!!!  Look and ye shall see...

Thanks

[SlowOldGuy]

Those 4 bundled hoses supply "bleed air" into the choke (enrichener) circuit.

Make sure they are not clogged up.  Also make sure all 6 of the hoses are routed SMOOTHLY around the side of the heat shield and DOWN into the hoop on the back of the engine case.  If any of these hoses runs "uphill" then fuel or other debris will obstruct them and cause a variety of difficult to diagnose ills.

DavidR.

[fjrpierre]

day 5 1/2 all back together and hooked up to a temp tank. When I cycled the run button several times, to cycle the pump to help it fill up those nooks and cranny in those nice clean carbs, I get fuel running out of one of the six tubes, one of the bigger ones connected to the plastic joints.

So I packed it in for the night. Is fuel coming out like that a natural reaction to cycling the pump half a dozen times or so, or some other worses problem. 

[andyb]

Float's stuck.  Common problem when you put them back on.  Just beat them with a mallet a bit and it should clear up.

[SlowOldGuy]

What Andy said!

I've had that happen a lot after a rebuild.  It's just a stuck float.  Hopefully it will have fixed itself by the time you try it again.

DavidR.