carb cleaning

[fjrpierre]

and how do you easily free the carb from the throttle cable on this 92?

[racerman_27410]

rotate the butterflys by hand until the cable dowel comes around where you can get to it.


take the cables out of the holder (on top of the carbs) and it will make things much easier both for removal and install


Frank

[fjrpierre]

  yep Frank that did the trick (along with a nice pair of clamping forceps from nursy wife which are now part of my tool kit). Somehow I was under the impression that the throttle cable was all one piece and that I needed to remove the whole frame/throttle body pins to loop it out. I'm glad I asked.  Now I can proceed to page 2 of 10 in David's instructions...

so Day 1 remove carbs: Since I couldn't easily rotate the subframe and remove the air box due to my Givi side/top racks being all hooked into that subframe,  I basically removed the air filter, popped in the rubber carb joints which gave me plenty of room to remove the carb assy. Already I noticed that the air filter needs serious cleaning/replacement and gas line filter was filled with teaspoon of sandy sediment and watery gas; that can't have been good!

[andyb]

Clamping forcepts = Hemostats.  Also useful to fishermen.

Just be careful in there.  Carbs are actually made of a metal called "butter" and it's easy to break shit.

[fjrpierre]

Thanks for that Andy, and mindful of this

Day 2: David's tome says disassemble 16 screws to remove covers.

Screw 1: won't budge, squirt all screws with loosener; tap all screws; screws 1, 2, 3, 4 ....16 won't budge; squirt again; tap again; won't budge. Tentitavely try impact screwdriver on a few with no effect. And there are what 60+ screws on this suckers? And what happens if I snap the head off these screws? It's going to be a long haul. I need to start twittering on this process so you can get every single important moment of this event....

Maybe I need to be more forceful and less fearful

[racerman_27410]

Thanks for that Andy, and mindful of this

Day 2: David's tome says disassemble 16 screws to remove covers.

Screw 1: won't budge, squirt all screws with loosener; tap all screws; screws 1, 2, 3, 4 ....16 won't budge; squirt again; tap again; won't budge. Tentitavely try impact screwdriver on a few with no effect. And there are what 60+ screws on this suckers? And what happens if I snap the head off these screws? It's going to be a long haul. I need to start twittering on this process so you can get every single important moment of this event....

Maybe I need to be more forceful and less fearful

''


Pierre,

I have had to use vise grips on the soft screw heads to get them out .... you do have David's screw kit ready to replace them all dont cha?


Frank

[Dan Filetti]

When I did this, I found that the right screw driver made a huge difference.  Of all the screws there were only maybe 2 that needed the vice-grip treatment.  You really MUST get David's replacement screw kit though, it'll make doing this again in a few years MUCH easier...

Dan

[fjrpierre]

tweet tweet yep I have Davids' kit beside me, and some "good" screwdrivers. And with a few more squirts AND a little more forceful and careful use of an impact screwdriver, I was able to free all the major stuff and have one carb ready to actually clean. I notice 3 of the 4 diaphrams each have one or 2 tiny piny holes near where they fold a bit near the edge; the rest of the diaphram is nice and solid. Not sure if thats acceptable or needs a repair.

Time for a beer, a Canadian beer eh!

[Harvy]

Not sure if thats acceptable or needs a repair.

Time for a beer, a Canadian beer eh!

Using a cotton bud (q-tip I think they are called over your side of the Pacific) apply a couple of coats of a mixture of 1/2 and 1/2 plasti-dip and naptha to the holes to seal them.
http://www.plastidip.com/

Moosehead?

Harvy

[Arnie]

Harvy,

Where in Oz did you find Plasti-Dip ?  I've used it back when I was in the US, but haven't seen it for sale here.

Cheers,
Arnie

[Harvy]

Harvy,

Where in Oz did you find Plasti-Dip ?  I've used it back when I was in the US, but haven't seen it for sale here.

Cheers,
Arnie

Arnie....just the one stockist listed for Victoria:

http://www.plastidip.net.au/index.php?module=Website&action=Text&content=1162600277671-8164&parentContent=1160805421953-7851

Harvy

[fjrpierre]

Day 3 (hey I have a life eh!) So I take the float bowl off my first carb and disassemble everything and what a mess.



Tell me this is normal please!!! (how can the bike even run with this crap there? Talk about clogged arteries!?)
Also how do I get the throttle spring assy off. My inclination is to remove the butterfly, remove the circ clip and slid shaft out?



and what is that brass screw beside the assy I've not yet touched (and what about that brassy long tube still sticking out?)

[racerrad8]

Pretty normal stuff.

The stuff at the filter screen is from the tank. The chalky deposits on the emulsion tube are from fuel deterioration as there is a small amount of fuel that is trapped in that area and cannot go anywhere.

No need to remove the spring. If you were to remove the spring you would have to remove the throttle plate like you stated, which is not necessary.

The screw is the W.O.T. stop, not need to remove. The brass tube is part of the choke enrichment circuit; also no need to remove.

Randy - RPM

[pdxfj]

Nah.. that's nothing..Try working on these.. Bike sat for 10+ years with a full tank of fuel..which was just a small amount of varnish by the time we got it.. Amazing enough after cleaning the carbs, bike started and ran.. but the piston rings were stuck with varnish also..

[Yamifj1200]

Garth, Im pretty sure thats the worst looking carb I have ever seen.

Eric M