Upcoming Winter Maintenance

[PaulG]

I'm about to dive into the valve clearance/shim issue amongst other things.  I will be buying the RPM VAT.  They are unobtainium up here other than through the U.S. on ebay (same price as Randy's).  Even the Yamaha dealer said I was better off NOT buying one from them.  When's the last time you heard that? 

I was wondering if the cam cover gasket was an absolute necessary replacement.  I've never changed it since '07 when I bought it, and I don't know how old it is but it doesn't leak.

The shims I will probably have to get through the dealer, as the shim kit is unable to be shipped beyond the border.  Outside of some possible shim changes, I am not expecting anything untoward (knock on wood  ) hopefully, as I don't have any excessive noise or oil consumption.  I have a GYSM somehere but the wife seems to have stashed it on her last cleaning binge.   

It's a '92 ABS with over 200,000 km now.  Anything else I might consider checking while I'm in there?  I will be renting some space at the DIY shop in Toronto so I will have access to tools I don't have - as well as benches! What luxury!

My initial to do list will be as follows:

Leak Down Test and Compression Tests
Valve Clearance Inspection
Valve Shim Adjustment
Some Miscellaneous Fiddling Around

What would be the range of compression where I should be concerned?  The Leak Down Test should tell me where a problem exists if there is one.  I've scanned around and can't find anything too specific re this on the site.  (Though I'm sure I will be proven wrong....  )

This will be my initial maintenance regarding the engine - anything further will be assesed as it happens - cuz I started computating the variables of what could happen, and I foresaw a completely rebuilt engine in my future.  It might not work - but it would be rebuilt!

Outside of basic maintenace, I don't think this bike has had a major overhaul ever.  I'm not going to attempt to do this (yet), just go over some things that are probably overdue.  Everything still works as it should (yes even the ABS!), so I'm willing to leave well enough alone.

[jscgdunn]

Hi Paul,
Unless the cam cover gaskets leaks...it should be ok.  Usually the cover bolt rubbers leak. 

I too am chasing shims this week.  They seem very expensive to buy, but some shops will exchange them.  For example we have a shop here that will exchange shims for a $3.25 premium (ie not the Yamaha dealer). This is good deal because you get rid of  (in my case, anyway) the 275 shims and get 260 265 and 270 shims which always seem to be required.  I am doing 2 this winter.

This guy has a bunch but will not separate or ship them:

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/north-bay/motorcycle-tools:-valve-adjustment-shims/1208111595?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Also a carb synch after you adjust the valves is good to do.

If it runs great at 200K I might just forgo the compression test; you might get the wrong answer.

Have fun,

Jeff

[jscgdunn]

By the way, all of these motors use 25 MM shims so you could source from Honda dealer if required.

Triumph 3&4 cyl
CB750C/F/K/SC
CB900C
CB1000C
CB1100F
CBX
SRX250
XT250
TT350
XT350
XJ600
XVZ12
XVZ13
V-MAX
FJ1100
FJ1200
XVZ1300

[turbocamino]

 Personally, i would get a V/cover gasket and if the one removed is soft and looks good,use it but at 10 years old...better safe than sorry.  Definitely do the valve springs. That is something you will feel. I would run the valve clearances before i got to far into this as well.

[ribbert]

Everything still works as it should (yes even the ABS!), so I'm willing to leave well enough alone.

[/b][/i]

That is great advice! The minute you start fiddling .......

Paul, just remember if your renting space, the compression test must be done hot and the valves clearances overnight cold.

If it's running well, not using oil and all the indicators are good, you could probably pass on the comp and leak down tests.

Noel

[fj johnnie]

 Paul I have the tool and an assortment of shims. You are welcome to borrow them from me any time. The shim kit is quite extensive however it is possible that the one you may need isn't in it.

[Pat Conlon]

I suggest replacing the valve cover grommets while you're in there.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2GH-1111G-00-00&cat=39

[PaulG]

Thanks for all the info.  I've contacted fj johnnie re the tool and shims, and I will be picking them up next week.  I did the grommets this spring so no worries there.  So instead of buying the VAT I might get a fork brace to help stop my front fender from disintegrating.... maybe rebuild the fork internals.... oh no... it's starting again... 

[PaulG]

I rode into the Motorevere DIY shop today to start on my PM's for my '92.  First thing was a compression check while the engine was still warm.

#1     #2     #3     #4
150    150    150    150 (psi)

Am I missing something here?  I was expecting at least some variance between cyclinders.  Did it a second time and all cylinders read the same.  I asked if the owner had used this gauge yet, and he said yes he just used it yesterday and was working ok.

The Clymer manual states a standard of 142psi, with a max of 171psi (min 128psi).  I won't be checking the valve clearances for a few days due to work, so that is still an unknown.  Once I do that and if I need to change some out I will check it again.  If they're within spec then retesting is moot.

Just wondering if getting the exact same reading across all cyclinders is not uncommon?  Also being about 6% above standard, I would assume is ok for ~200,000 km (120,000 mi).

[FJmonkey]

Wow, getting all 4 cylinders with the same results. I would be skeptical as the odds of that seem astounding. Possible, but unlikely. Did you check pressure with and with out adding oil to the cylinder?

[PaulG]

Did you check pressure with and with out adding oil to the cylinder?

I didn't bother as the GYSM and the Clymer suggested to do it only if the compression was near or below the minimum of 128psi.  Is it necessary to do this check even if the compresson is nominal? (albeit strangely uniform).

I can do it after I inspect the shims this weekend.

[FJmonkey]

I didn't bother as the GYSM and the Clymer suggested to do it only if the compression was near or below the minimum of 128psi.  Is it necessary to do this check even if the compresson is nominal? (albeit strangely uniform).

I can do it after I inspect the shims this weekend.

That makes sense, if the compression numbers are good then the oil test may not give you different results. If possible make sure the gauge physically reads past 150. The numbers may go past 150 but if the gauge has an issue and maxes out then that could explain your numbers. It would also mean your numbers are possibly better than 150 on some cylinders. A bit of a reach, if I think of anything else I will post up.

[ribbert]

Did you check pressure with and with out adding oil to the cylinder?

I didn't bother as the GYSM and the Clymer suggested to do it only if the compression was near or below the minimum of 128psi.  Is it necessary to do this check even if the compresson is nominal? (albeit strangely uniform).

I can do it after I inspect the shims this weekend.

Dead even compression readings are not that rare over 4 cylinders nor is higher than average readings and as you say, no need to test any further. I've seen 160 even on all cylinders on an FJ (and other engines).

That motor must have had a good life. The benefits of a high cold start/mileage ratio and frequent oil changes (any kind) really start to show up as the miles stack up.

Looks like you've got a really sweet engine there.

Noel

[oldktmdude]

   I did a comp test on my 1100 (Wiseco 1219) three weeks ago, the figures were *1 185psi, *2 180psi, *3 190psi and*4 195 psi. This helps explain the hp and torque figures I have gotten from the Dyno testing. Must be testing the genuine Yamaha cylinder studs.
   Regards, Pete.

[ribbert]

   I did a comp test on my 1100 (Wiseco 1219) three weeks ago, the figures were *1 185psi, *2 180psi, *3 190psi and*4 195 psi. This helps explain the hp and torque figures I have gotten from the Dyno testing. Must be testing the genuine Yamaha cylinder studs.
   Regards, Pete.

Nice numbers Pete, another 100psi and you could turn it into a diesel.

Noel