Valve cover bolts

[bama1]

I changed my plugs this weekend and while I was at it I made sure all the bolts were tight on my valve covers.Two of them had been leaking oil around them.One of the bolts seemed like it was stripped.I took the bolt out and everything looked okay.What ever the bolt screws in to is it possible it can turn.I would appreciate anybodies help.

[pdxfj]

The bolts will only go in so far by design.  They just need to be snug, and not super tight or you'll strip the threads in the head.

If you are getting some leaking around the bolts, then it's time to replace the black rubber grommets.  While you're at it might as well replace the cam cover gasket as well.  Don't just replace the leaky grommets, do all of them.

[bama1]

Thank you for your help. I thought I might have a big problem.The threads all looked good.

[SlowOldGuy]

Those bolts are "shoulder bolts."  Meaning that they screw down until a flat washer-like shoulder makes contact.  Any more torque after the shoulder contacts and you're just stressing the threads without adding any more clamping force to the assembly.  This design allows a certain amount of clamping force without over squashing the gasket.

Unfortunately, the steel cam cover bolts screw into the nice SOFT ALUMINUM cam bearing caps.  If you've got one that is spinning without getting tight, then you've probably stripped the aluminum threads in the cam cap.

Not a big problem, you will need to remove the cap, clean out any residual aluminum debris, then install a helicoil.

DavidR.

[Marsh White]

I broke one of those "shoulder bolts" off by over tightening when I was a newbie to the FJ...trying to stop the oil leak before knowing they were "shoulder bolts".  I think many others have done this as well.  I haven't heard of anyone stripping the threads on the cam cap before...though it is logical that would happen every time instead of snapping the steel bolts.  Weird.

No real point to this comment...just my observation.  Do what David says and you'll be fine!

Tip: order at least 2 WHOLE sets of those little rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts..that should last you several years...and you can loan some to buddies...they wear out ALL THE TIME!!

[Knuckles]

It seems that the rubber collars become hard after some time. Every single FJ I looked at had a problem with a small oil leak on the leftmost collars. Quickfix is to slip a 10mm O-ring over the collar and then tighten it down. Worked for me until I could get the right stuff.

[Petermac]

I broke one of those "shoulder bolts" off by over tightening when I was a newbie to the FJ...trying to stop the oil leak before knowing they were "shoulder bolts".  I think many others have done this as well.  I haven't heard of anyone stripping the threads on the cam cap before...though it is logical that would happen every time instead of snapping the steel bolts.  Weird.

No real point to this comment...just my observation.  Do what David says and you'll be fine!

Tip: order at least 2 WHOLE sets of those little rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts..that should last you several years...and you can loan some to buddies...they wear out ALL THE TIME!!

Hi Does any one know where I can pick up a set of these rubber grommets?  I need some.  Many thanks.

[Arnie]

Petermac,

You could get them from your local Yamaha dealer, OR you could get them from one of the dealers or suppliers in the "vendor" section here.  That would save you some cash (and probably time).

Arnie

[racerrad8]

Hi Does any one know where I can pick up a set of these rubber grommets?  I need some.  Many thanks.

I have plenty. Let me know and I can get you some in the mail tomorrow.

Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com

[Jim 92FJ]

Does the fairing need to be removed in order to replace the gasket and grommets? Climbers states that it's necessary, but that woul be a real pain.

[aviationfred]

Does the fairing need to be removed in order to replace the gasket and grommets? Climbers states that it's necessary, but that woul be a real pain.

You do not need to remove the fairing. I would remove the air scoops. Removing the gas tank and the scoops should give you all the access that you need.

Fred

[Steve_in_Florida]

Does the fairing need to be removed in order to replace the gasket and grommets? Climbers states that it's necessary, but that would be a real pain.

Quit whining!   

The entire fairing assembly can be removed in under ten (10) minutes. (Including a five minute coffee break  and a two minute smoke break!)

You'd have to remove the air scoops anyway, so you're already partway there.

Learn to enjoy the fairing removal process. It makes maintaining your bike that much more fun.

[ribbert]

Does the fairing need to be removed in order to replace the gasket and grommets? Climbers states that it's necessary, but that woul be a real pain.

The manual suggest removing the fairing for just about everything except refuelling.
As you have been told, no you don't, just the air scoops.

The manual also suggests it is the first job when removing the motor, for which there is absolutely no sound reason.

But, as Steve discovered, if the fairing is removed with subframe, it is a 10 min job.

Noel

[Jim 92FJ]

Steve in Florida, Fred and Noel,

Thanks for the info.  I don't mind doing the work, especially since I found this post: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8496.0 

This is a fix I want to get done quickly.

[ribbert]

Steve in Florida, Fred and Noel,

Thanks for the info.  I don't mind doing the work, especially since I found this post: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8496.0 

This is a fix I want to get done quickly.

Errr, your post reads like you still intend to take the fairing off to do the valves.
Noel