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Fork seals linking help.

Started by jagcofj, July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM

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jagcofj

Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. Whats the 1st steps to do.  How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.

racerrad8

Quote from: jagcofj on July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM
Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. What the 1st steps to go.  How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.

Genuine Yamaha NOK Fork seals in stock and ready to ship.

All Balls aftermarket fork seals in stock and ready to ship.

Fork rebuild kit with Yamaha NOK seals in stock and ready to ship.

Haynes FJ Manual in stock and ready to ship.

Or, for any other FJ needs you might have, there is a link at the top of the page that will take you directly to the RPM website.

If I ship today, you will have it by Friday.

Randy - RPM




Randy - RPM

jagcofj

Quote from: racerrad8 on July 19, 2016, 03:29:34 PM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM
Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. What the 1st steps to go.  How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.

Genuine Yamaha NOK Fork seals in stock and ready to ship.

All Balls aftermarket fork seals in stock and ready to ship.

Fork rebuild kit with Yamaha NOK seals in stock and ready to ship.

Haynes FJ Manual in stock and ready to ship.

Or, for any other FJ needs you might have, there is a link at the top of the page that will take you directly to the RPM website.

If I ship today, you will have it by Friday.

Randy - RPM

thanks randy, i already order them. i will keep you in mind for the next order. 

I still need help replacing the fork seals. 




racerrad8

Quote from: jagcofj on July 20, 2016, 08:19:25 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 19, 2016, 03:29:34 PM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM
Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. What the 1st steps to go.  How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.

Genuine Yamaha NOK Fork seals in stock and ready to ship.

All Balls aftermarket fork seals in stock and ready to ship.

Fork rebuild kit with Yamaha NOK seals in stock and ready to ship.

Haynes FJ Manual in stock and ready to ship.

Or, for any other FJ needs you might have, there is a link at the top of the page that will take you directly to the RPM website.

If I ship today, you will have it by Friday.

Randy - RPM
thanks randy, i already order them. i will keep you in mind for the next order. 

I still need help replacing the fork seals. 

Ok, I was just going by the post title for "Fork seals linking help".

As far as direction on how to replace them, you will need to remove the top cap to change/add oil. The seals need to be carefully removed and replaced with new.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

balky1

Try to look in the Files section for manual. I believe you can find it online for download.
I know the plastic caps just come of with a screwdriver. Since I have 1100 I don't know are there any differences, but some general steps would be:

  • open the little drain bolts on the bottom of the forks (screwdriver) and drain the oil, pump a few times to drain it all (carefull, it will squirt all over if you press too hard)
  • support your bike with something because it will dive forward when you remove the fork caps or fork
  • remove front wheel
  • remove those plastic caps from the top with a screwdriver (just pry them off)
  • adjust the preload and damping to lowest setting (i.e. loosen the tension in the spring as much as possible)
  • remove the fork caps and springs (it is easier to do it while legs are on the bike), you will need a 27 mm nut to do it (back wheel axle nut), at least I think so, not sure for 1200
From this step I'm just guessing since I actually haven't done it on FJ, only other bikes, so some modification might be required:
  • remove the fork legs from the bike
  • brace them in a vice (careful!!!!, use only plastic cowered vice grip) and unscrew a screw on the bottom of the legs holding the inner tube (if it turns completely you will need an air gun (I think it's called air gun) to unscrew it
  • remove the dust cleaner and oil seal retainer clip and you should be able to pull everything apart

A couple of remarks:

  • if the stanchions have deep scratches it is probably futile to replace the seals (deal that first - hard rechroming or buy new)
  • it would be good idea, if money permits, to replace all bushings in the fork

Please, anyone, correct this if you find any mistakes. Like I said, I never did this on FJ so I'm not sure will everything go the way I wrote.

Ivan


FJ 1100, 1985, sold
FJR 1300, 2009

rktmanfj


The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:



Randy T
Indy

Blessed be the LORD my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight.
Psalms 144:1

'89 FJ1200
'90 FJ1200
'78 XT500
'88 XT350


rlucas

Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM

The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:



Hey, I've got one just like that!!! Craftsman and everything!

We're not a club. Clubs have rules. Pay dues. Wear hats and shit.

"Y'all might be faster than me, but you didn't have more fun than I did." Eric McClellan (RIP '15)

Tuneforkfreak

Yup that's a handy tool. I left my forks in the triple clamps to break those caps  loose. I loosened the top clamp pinch bolts to relieve pressure on the cap but left the bottom clamp tight to hold it, It broke loose very easily. Once you get the forks off, remove cap and drain, remove the wiper seals and the seal retainer ring then there is a large Allen bolt in the bottom that will need to come out. Pretty straight forward. Your brake pads are soggy toast get new ones.
Yamahas from my past,
IT465, IT200, YZ80. 350Warrior, Kodiak400, Kodiak450,
Various others include
XR600, KX500, KDX200, ATC250R, ATC350X, ATC 200S
Currently ride
FJ 1200 , DRZ400, Yamaha Viking, Suzuki Samurai dirt mobile

racerrad8

Quote from: Tuneforkfreak on July 20, 2016, 11:00:33 AM
there is a large Allen bolt in the bottom that will need to come out.

The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

rktmanfj

Quote from: rlucas on July 20, 2016, 10:45:54 AM

Hey, I've got one just like that!!! Craftsman and everything!


Check your toolbox...  :biggrin:

Randy T
Indy

Blessed be the LORD my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight.
Psalms 144:1

'89 FJ1200
'90 FJ1200
'78 XT500
'88 XT350


jscgdunn

Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:04:32 AM
Quote from: Tuneforkfreak on July 20, 2016, 11:00:33 AM
there is a large Allen bolt in the bottom that will need to come out.

The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.

Randy - RPM

Hi Randy,
What is the trick to get the old seals out if you do not pull the allen bolts?

92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

racerrad8

Quote from: jscgdunn on July 20, 2016, 11:35:03 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:04:32 AM
The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.

Randy - RPM

Hi Randy,
What is the trick to get the old seals out if you do not pull the allen bolts?

We just use a large screwdriver to carefully pry them out being careful not the nick the chrome surface or gouge the aluminum slider. We do it quite regularly.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

jscgdunn

Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:47:22 AM
Quote from: jscgdunn on July 20, 2016, 11:35:03 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:04:32 AM
The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.

Randy - RPM

Hi Randy,
What is the trick to get the old seals out if you do not pull the allen bolts?

We just use a large screwdriver to carefully pry them out being careful not the nick the chrome surface or gouge the aluminum slider. We do it quite regularly.

Randy - RPM

Thanks will try that next time.....would save a bunch of time (and mess) if you are not changing bushings.
92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

Tuneforkfreak

If you're going to just pry the seals I'd suggest a good flush with maybe some mineral spirits or solvent cleaner of some sort, prolly a good several shots of brake clean would work as well. The years tend to settle dark matter down in there.
Yamahas from my past,
IT465, IT200, YZ80. 350Warrior, Kodiak400, Kodiak450,
Various others include
XR600, KX500, KDX200, ATC250R, ATC350X, ATC 200S
Currently ride
FJ 1200 , DRZ400, Yamaha Viking, Suzuki Samurai dirt mobile

SausageNips

I just did my fork seals for the first time.  I have to admit, I was a bit nervous, but between the Haynes manual and a truly great YouTube video, I am victorious.  The Haynes manual will have the pictures for the disassembly of the front of the bike and the pics for putting the fork components in the correct order when you reassemble.

This video below will tell you the best way I've seen to replace the seals.  It even points out several common mistakes people make and the "got-cha's" that come up along the way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30

As far as the tool for the cap removal, I made one by finding a slightly larger than 27mm bolt at Lowe's (a Home Depot style store) and grinding it down on a bench grinder to fit.  If I had to do it again, I'd spend the measly $35 and get this:
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder


Use Delboy's video to make the fork seal driver out of drain pipe.  It's $2.50 in parts at the home improvement store and it worked perfectly.
Bike:
85 FJ1100 red/white
- Bored and rebuilt to 1200cc
- Dyna2000 ignition
- Dynajet ported carbs - Stage 3
- K&N individual filters
- Vance & Hines stainless exhaust