cylinder head removal

[FJools]

I tried a search for this but came up with lots of non specific references.........

Is it possible to remove the cylinder head on a 92 FJ1200 with the engine in the frame ?

I have it down to the loosening cam cover bolt stage but it looks a little tight to get the head off.

[fj1289]

I'm pretty certain you can -- but it is tight.  If I remember correctly you may need to move the clutch line out of the way.  Also the head has to tilt a bit as you get to the top of the studs. 

Clean everything very well to keep from dropping crud into the engine!

[FJmonkey]

After dropping my engine twice at RPM in the same visit and the second time was under 35 min. With two people and just a floor jack I don't see the need not to drop it and have the freedom of working on it while on the bench. I now know I can do it in an hour or so and not be rushed. Give Randy a call and take notes on the basic steps and drop the engine. Why do you want the head off and not drop the engine?

[FJools]

I was starting to think that would be the way to go, but its never been out before and those front engine mounts might decide to play hard ball.

It won't hurt to give it a go.

[movenon]

I have a 1990 FJ. The answer is yes the head will come off with the engine in the frame. It is tight but will clear. 
George

[aviationfred]

Yes the head and the cylinder block can be removed with the engine still in the frame.

Doing only the head is fairly easy to get it out and back in.

Fred

[ribbert]

I was starting to think that would be the way to go, but its never been out before and those front engine mounts might decide to play hard ball.

Jools, for future reference, removing the engine does not involve wrestling with the notoriously difficult engine mounts, that is only if you want to remove the inner collars when they become seized and cause vibration. The bolt that holds the engine in passes right through the middle of them.

Noel

[balky1]

Yes the head and the cylinder block can be removed with the engine still in the frame.

Doing only the head is fairly easy to get it out and back in.

Fred

Are those the new 1300 ccm pistons? Why you removed the head again? Probs?

Ivan

[aviationfred]

Yes the head and the cylinder block can be removed with the engine still in the frame.

Doing only the head is fairly easy to get it out and back in.

Fred

Are those the new 1300 ccm pistons? Why you removed the head again? Probs?

Ivan

Yes, those are the 1300 pistons. The head AND cylinder block had to come off at 500 miles. I made a critical mistake with one of the piston wrist pin clips. (I used the wrong clip).

All is good now. Just rolled over 2000 miles on the new pistons. Still purrs like a kitten.

Back on subject..... I did pull the head and cylinder with the engine in the frame. Having done the initial build with the engine OUT of the frame. pull the engine....it makes life a whole lot easier for reassembly.


Fred

[FJools]

I was starting to think that would be the way to go, but its never been out before and those front engine mounts might decide to play hard ball.

Jools, for future reference, removing the engine does not involve wrestling with the notoriously difficult engine mounts, that is only if you want to remove the inner collars when they become seized and cause vibration. The bolt that holds the engine in passes right through the middle of them.

Noel

Thanks Noel

I haven't really looked at the removal side properly yet.
The head came off a lot easier than I expected. The only sticky part was the laminated gasket getting caught on the outer studs every time I lowered the head to free the other side !


All off on the bench now just the buckets to removed into the marked up box lid.


The carbon on the pistons wasn't too bad but certainly getting crusty in the middle.

Cams, lobes and bearings surfaces are all good.

[ribbert]

All off on the bench now just the buckets to removed into the marked up box lid.

Jools, you know what the chances are of those buckets not ending up piled up in one corner of the lid are don't you? - nil 

These make the best small part holders, particularly for valve gear, you can write on them in biro, close the lid, stack them, put them on a shelf and nothing will move.



When disassembling engines it often goes unnoticed that 2 or more parts can be near identical, such as spacers, thrust washers, odd length bolts, carby internals, one off pieces etc, until you are reassembling and you have one in each hand wondering which one goes where or simply having a part and no idea where it goes.
Putting those sort of items in an egg carton and writing its location next to it makes life much easier.

Even if you know where the parts go, it still makes a great holder and minimises losses into the black hole - along with the socks and tupperware lids.

It's not uncommon to still see these in use in modern workshops.

Noel

I have a friend (just) who's been known to drop a few extra bolts onto the bench beside a disassembled engine for a prank, now that's nasty.

[FJools]

Noel

you have the eyes of a shithouse rat !

I was going to glue cardboard dividers into the box lid but got waylaid when a visitor arrived !

I like the eggbox idea - but it could be a bit unstable for my "tidy" work bench.

So I'm sure you will be impressed with my second option when you see it.........................