Swapped battery now clutch won't disengage.

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 12:59:13 AM

Picked myself up an 86 FJ1200 with supposedly 31k miles (30k pre new tach) and the bike needed a new battery but ran fine and I even rode it home. However I got a new battery and disengaged the clutch to roll the bike into my driveway. After swapping the new battery in the clutch now will not disengage. Lever goes through entire motion but feels like it has no pressure. What are the likely culprits? I'm doubtful but could it have anything to do with the new battery?!

Urban_Legend · April 21, 2016, 01:26:31 AM

Hi Ognog

Firstly, I see you are new to the Group. Welcome. Would be nice if you could please do a bit of an into about yourself and your new treasure.
Ok now for the clutch. It sounds like you might have a bit of air in the clutch line. If the bike has been sitting for a while the slave cylinder may not be in good shape. Check for leaks. New ones are not overly expensive or you could get a rebuild kit. Check your fluid level and bleed that sucker. Most of these clutch system will have DOT 3 or 4 Brake fluid in them, so if you get it on your paint, rinse off immediately.

Mark

red · April 21, 2016, 06:40:25 AM

Quote from: Ognog on April 21, 2016, 12:59:13 AMPicked myself up an 86 FJ1200 with supposedly 31k miles (30k pre new tach) and the bike needed a new battery but ran fine and I even rode it home. However I got a new battery and disengaged the clutch to roll the bike into my driveway. After swapping the new battery in the clutch now will not disengage. Lever goes through entire motion but feels like it has no pressure. What are the likely culprits? I'm doubtful but could it have anything to do with the new battery?!

Ognog,

No pressure? As in, the lever is just loose, connected to nothing? Use a good strong light, and check at the clutch hand-lever. You should be able to see the clutch push rod (3) being moved by the bushing (4) when you move the lever, as shown in the drawing here:

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1986-yamaha-fj1200sc-front-master-cylinder-2-assembly.html

If parts are missing (or just badly worn) there, forget the hydraulics for right now, and repair the hand-lever pivot assembly.

If all that mechanical stuff is good, then sure, bleed the clutch, which is probably a good idea on any bike you just bought. If the clutch (brake) fluid is old and discolored, pump new fluid (using the hand lever) through the clutch system, until it comes out clean. Expect to discard a cup or two of dirty fluid, to make things right there. Look into the aftermarket SpeedBleeders, to make that job a lot easier. I do like mine.

You may need the rest of the parts drawings for that bike, in case some other things may need replacement. There are several websites that will give you the drawings, but for a start, you may want to bookmark this website:

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1986-yamaha-fj1200sc.html

Feel free to go to the Introductions here, and introduce yourself. We welcome new members here.

Cheers,
Red

FJmonkey · April 21, 2016, 07:40:02 AM

If you rode it home, meaning the clutch was working properly, then you most likely have air in the system. Mechanical parts can wear and cause this problem but not from a single ride home. The clutch slave is a known weak link on the FJ, many have missing/damaged paint like my '86 to prove it. Check the fluid level in the master and check the slave for leaks. When you bleed the system, cover the areas around the master where brake fluid might spill/drip. Have a spray bottle of water handy to rinse/flush any spilled brake fluid off paint and or plastic.

Oh, and welcome to our digital campfire.

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 01:24:02 PM

Okay so I took a peak inside that 3/4 and it looks pretty worn. Im on mobile so I don't think I can post the picture but that first bushing looked pretty work out and split so it doesn't seem like it would be a bad idea to rebuild it but I have no experience with this sort of thing. Would it be better to rebuild or replace?

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 02:08:25 PM

Here's the slave and the grommet or bushing? Not sure of the proper name as I have zero mechanical experience. The fluid in the reservoir for brown as well which I've read is not good. I'm going to go pick up a bleeder and some fluid and then proceed from there has I have no idea how to flush the system or add fluid properly.

FJmonkey · April 21, 2016, 02:32:24 PM

I see that you are in Las Vegas, we have another member here Novaraptor that is also in Vegas. If we get his attention maybe he can provide some support. I've met him, good guy. Which reminds me, I am coming to Vegas the week of June 19th. If you have some free time maybe we can meet. it is always good to put a face to a name.

Dot 3 and 4 absorb water, so the brown color is bad as you suspect.

novaraptor · April 21, 2016, 03:02:10 PM

PM sent.. and nope, the battery would have nothing to do with the clutch system. It's all hydraulic and mechanical.

Novaraptor

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 04:15:45 PM

So I picked up a brake bleeder at cycle gear and flushed out the old fluid and now the clutch works great although I'm not sure I properly bleed the system.

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 04:16:43 PM

The brake fluid

FJmonkey · April 21, 2016, 04:47:03 PM

Is that the fluid level when you first opened the master? That color is way past its due date. If the clutch now works then you bled it enough. Small amounts of air will work its way up the line and back into the master, like a self bleeding system.

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 05:31:27 PM

Yes that was the color and level give or take a few quickly cleaned up spills.

Pat Conlon · April 21, 2016, 07:15:10 PM

The condition of that fluid tells you something....yuck.
I would plan on taking the swing arm off, clean and lube all the needle bearings in your linkage.
Pull the forks off, remove the steering stem and lube those upper and lower bearings.
While the forks are off, drain and refill with fresh fork oil.
Inspect the wheel bearings, remember you have 3 on the back. (2 wheel, 1 cush hub)

Your bike will thank you.

Ognog · April 21, 2016, 08:54:40 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 21, 2016, 07:15:10 PM
The condition of that fluid tells you something....yuck.
I would plan on taking the swing arm off, clean and lube all the needle bearings in your linkage.
Pull the forks off, remove the steering stem and lube those upper and lower bearings.
While the forks are off, drain and refill with fresh fork oil.
Inspect the wheel bearings, remember you have 3 on the back. (2 wheel, 1 cush hub)

Your bike will thank you.

I would love to extensively go over the bike so I can have that reassurance and confidence as I'm riding around town I just really don't have the means (tools and a garage) or knowledge to go about doing that.

Alte Fahrt · April 25, 2016, 06:33:22 AM

Quote from: Ognog on April 21, 2016, 08:54:40 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 21, 2016, 07:15:10 PM
The condition of that fluid tells you something....yuck.
I would plan on taking the swing arm off, clean and lube all the needle bearings in your linkage.
Pull the forks off, remove the steering stem and lube those upper and lower bearings.
While the forks are off, drain and refill with fresh fork oil.
Inspect the wheel bearings, remember you have 3 on the back. (2 wheel, 1 cush hub)

Your bike will thank you.

I would love to extensively go over the bike so I can have that reassurance and confidence as I'm riding around town I just really don't have the means (tools and a garage) or knowledge to go about doing that.

You could send it to me and I can do it for you. I have a workshop, tools, experience and time. OTOH it might be cheaper to take it to a local shop.

News:

Swapped battery now clutch won't disengage.