Fitting Galfer clutch lines

[cclase]

Hi.  Anyone installed Galfer braided stainless clutch lines?  Fit seems good, but connections to hard line between m/c and clutch release leak when trying to bleed line.  OEM female connection has convex lip to receive flared male fitting on the hard line.  The Galfer is concave.  Doesn't make for an airtight seal.  Appreciate your insight. 

Chris

[FJmonkey]

The connection surfaces are flat regardless of brand. The sealing washers crush when tightened and seal. Perhaps a better description of your issue would help us understand your problem.

[rktmanfj]

Hi.  Anyone installed Galfer braided stainless clutch lines?  Fit seems good, but connections to hard line between m/c and clutch release leak when trying to bleed line.  OEM female connection has convex lip to receive flared male fitting on the hard line.  The Galfer is concave.  Doesn't make for an airtight seal.  Appreciate your insight. 

Chris

I have, but I'm afraid I'm of no help to you.  

I recall no such issue when installing mine (but I have a YZF750 m/c).

[cclase]

Thanks for the responses...having trouble posting pics.  iPhone uses .jpeg extension.  I'll edit and post when I can get to PC.  Appreciate y'all.

Chris

[cclase]

Let's try this again...

[rktmanfj]

My Galfer line was a complete replacement, from m/c to s/c.

I never reused the OEM steel line.

[cclase]

Interesting...this was a two line kit that included banjo bolts and washers.  The length was no where near long enough to run end-end.  Since the threads were correct, I assumed the hard tube must be reused.  While searching for a solution, I ran across a Vmax forum where some type of adapter was included, but it wasn't clear to me what it was exactly...not to mention, whether it's applicable to FJs.  The kit did include everything as specified by the manufacturer.  Weird.

Chris

[racerrad8]

Galfer likes to use a little brass insert I believe they call an "olive" for that conversion.

I have installed only one set of Galfer lines and I had to use a bunch of those on the ABS application.

I would give them a call and they should send you one.

If not I can call Spiegler as they have them listed in their part catalog.

Randy - RPM

[cclase]

Thanks Randy!  I'll PM you.
Chris

[cclase]

At any rate, clutch line is a show stopper for today, however, all in all its been productive couple of weekends giving the FJ some much needed attention and tlc:
New rubber f/r
Rebuilt f/r m/c (thanks RPM!)
EBC DDs all around
I've scraped off what has to be 30 yrs of road grime and learned gobs along the way.  Don't mind saying that I'm not looking forward to reinstalling the fairing!  

[cclase]

Procedure per Galfer USA technical support:

"Before you start, determine how far the banjo will need to be rotated to prevent unnecessary movement at the connection point. Also identify the silver crimp collar in the attached photo, and on your line. It is the portion just below the banjo that holds the flex line in place. You will need to LIGHTLY hold this collar while rotating the banjo to prevent the line from twisting. I typically use a set of vice grips set to the lowest possible setting that will hold the collar. You can wrap the crimp with a shop towel if you like to prevent marring. With the vice grip in place, you can insert a wood dowel, brass punch, or even a pen into the banjo hole and rotate it to the desired position. If the line is already installed on the bike and you need to relieve tension or re-position it, you can simply hold the collar and rotate it slightly. Just be careful to rotate and NOT pry on the fitting."

Diagrams attached.  Hope this is helpful,
Chris

[cclase]

I just did this on my front left brake line to straighten out a bend I wasn't happy with...used a small pair of channel locks and a thin shop towel basically folded over the crimp collar, but low enough I could still see the collar in the jaws of the pliers.  As was stated by Galfer, use a light touch...it takes significantly less pressure than you might think.  No wonder I didn't have any success in my previous attempts!  Good luck!

Chris

[racerrad8]

Chris,

What was the outcome, did you have to get an "olive"?

Randy - RPM

[cclase]

Apologies for the delay!  Yes, I contacted Galfer and informed them of the issue. They were responsive and easy to work with.  Indicated two olive inserts should have been included in the kit.  Took my address and shipped them out @ no additional charge.  Unfortunately, in my haste to install the lines I neglected to get a pic to post.  Fairly small brass(?) inserts that drop in and make a convex mating surface of the oem hard line. Kind of a pain to fit the top line (which was already installed and facing down so I had to balance the olive on the end of the hard line and push up when making to connection...dropped it about 137 times), but with a little perseverance I got it connected.  Bled easily and so far no leaks!  The only other real issue I noted was the c/r banjo.  It doesn't seem to me to to be correctly angled...in fact, and probably the wrong decision, I "adjusted" it to fit.  Meaning, I bent it a bit to change degree of the angle of the shaft.  I did send them a pic of the oem banjo for reference.  All said, I think the better option is the Spiegler offering of a single line from m/c to c/r, but Galfer's offering works.  Randy, thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction!

Chris

[Capn Ron]

My Galfer setup was also end-to-end for the clutch side of things...eliminating the hard line in the middle makes the most sense to me.