A couple of questions

[Alte Fahrt]

My ride is an 88 FJ1200 that I've done a lot of work to bur I still have a couple of bugs.

Under hard braking or when going over a low curb such an in a parking lot, the forks bottom out. Would I be better off rebuilding or replacing them. I'm trying to keep the bike as original as possible and I'm on a tight budget.

Bug 2. With the motor running and the clutch disengaged the bike jumps a little when I drop it in gear. Is this normal or do I have a problem? I've never had a bike that does this before.

[FJmonkey]

Your forks are likely due for a rebuild. The original springs were also too soft. You can rebuild the forks to get some improvement. Or rebuild and put in stiffer springs for more improvement. Or you can rebuild the forks and install aftermarket valves like the RPM valves. None of this will change how the bike looks, just make the front ride better. I installed the RPM fork valves and feel they are one of the best upgrades you can make on your FJ. However, once you do this you will discover how crappy the rear shock is.

Does the issue with the clutch happen every time you shift into 1st? Or only when cold, like the first shift into 1st that day?

[Harvy]

Bug 2. With the motor running and the clutch disengaged the bike jumps a little when I drop it in gear. Is this normal or do I have a problem? I've never had a bike that does this before.

This is such a common "Problem"

It occurs because the oil between the friction and steel plates in the clutch pack sticks them together even when the clutch is disengaged.
I find if you blip the throttle a couple of times while the clutch is disengaged and then select 1st that the "problem" is somewhat alleviated.
Once the oil is warm it will be less obvious but will probably still occur to some extent - the shock absorber rubbers in the cush drive will reduce the effect somewhat.

Harvy

[Pat Conlon]

If the forks seals are ok, you could get by with just popping in some progressive springs ($100)
These springs are old school.


http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit

A bit of History: Progressive fork springs were all we had back in the mid '80's before Race Tech. came out with Cartridge Emulators, which used different (straight rate) springs. So we threw away our progressive springs. The Cartridge Emulators were a major step up from the oem damper rod forks. We were in heaven, or so we thought, but time marches on and technology improves.

Now in the 21st century, RPM has some trick fork valves available for FJ's which also uses straight rate springs (not progressive) as Monkey Mark recommends, as well as many, many forum members.

You can go cheap now.....$100, but if you ever want to improve, you will throw the progressive springs away.

....or, add a little bit more money, you can do it right. Get the proper springs and RPM valves.

Beware it's a slippery slope.
With your front end dialed in, you will then notice what a pos your oem rear shock is.......guaranteed

[Alte Fahrt]

Thanks everybody. I don't know much about the tube front ends. Most of my experience has been with springer and girders. Totally different world here. The rear shock seems fine to me. Just remember that I'm not a performance rider. I like to cruise along and enjoy the scenery. My need for speed has long since expired.

[Mark Olson]

Have you changed your fork oil yet? If not , drain it out and fill with fresh fork oil .. use 15 wt. and take 1 us.qt and split it between the forks.
that will be the correct level .
If you want to measure it .. take the springs out and let the forks compress all the way down . It will be 130 mm. from oil to top of fork.

If your forks are not leaking oil now , it may be because it all leaked out . After you change the fork oil it may start leaking .

that's the cheapest way to go for now . It will keep your fj nice and smooth for cruising.

[Alte Fahrt]

Have you changed your fork oil yet? If not , drain it out and fill with fresh fork oil .. use 15 wt. and take 1 us.qt and split it between the forks.
that will be the correct level .
If you want to measure it .. take the springs out and let the forks compress all the way down . It will be 130 mm. from oil to top of fork.

If your forks are not leaking oil now , it may be because it all leaked out . After you change the fork oil it may start leaking .

that's the cheapest way to go for now . It will keep your fj nice and smooth for cruising.

Oil was replaced during the last tear down and does not leak. I'm looking at a complete fork rebuild next winter but thanks.