Tank Kreme

[Jeff0308]

For a few weeks the fuel gauge has been playing up. After Fuelling up. The needle Takes ages and I mean ages to get to the "F". Sometimes "FULL" is half or whatever it wants. So up until today I've thought that "Yep the 28 year old gauge is knackered". WRONG!!!! About 2 years ago I put "TANK KREME" in the tank as there was a trace of rust in the tank. All was good.   As I went to the island and back  a few days ago and few other places the trip meter said 239 km. The gauge reads "E". Thought I wonder if I got enough fuel to get to work. Usually get about 275km without any dramas and still have some left. Anyway I'm  About to set off to work and decided to physically inspect the remainder fuel level.  Opened up the fuel cap and as the bike was on the side stand I noticed  the tank Kreme has separated from the tank wall but still in tact. Pushed to the bottom below was the sender trying desperately to reach the top. No chance.  Never noticed it til now as usually the bikes on the centre stand and it's not visible. Has anyone any idea how to fix this.? I thought about trying to rinse it with acetone after I pull it apart but am uncertain if it will work as the petrol has got behind it. It doesn't appear to be torn. However I haven't really checked in depth. Was going to try pull it up but I'm worried it will tear and then I got bigger issues.

[FJmonkey]

Have you Googled this? There is a lot of information on Kreem and its removal. Plenty of failure stories and some success stories as well.

[Jeff0308]

Had a go at removing the tank liner today. Messy job!!!  The first part was easy. Must have been separated for a while. For those who have the same or similar issue, it's seems to be more pliable with fuel in it rather than a dry tank. Dry it goes crispy.  I put a long screwdriver in and nicked the liner and proceeded to pull at it using the screwdriver. Got about half of it out. There's a pipe inside, I assume it to be the breather that made it difficult. Anyway, I got what I could out and then tried acetone. It loosened up about 75% of it. I never used screws or anything. Just shook it and rotated it. After I Emptied it into a container I pressure washed it.  Got about 90% out. Ran out of acetone.  Get more tomorrow.  For those who are interested, a huge washer with a piece of old rubbe  sealed the sender hole perfect. The existing bolts held down the edges well. As for the fuel petcock. I cut some rubber and pierced holes in it and held it down using the petcock over the rubber. Perfect. No leaks. Just the filler which I stuffed with a rag. The paint seems to have held up, just have to be careful. Has been a bitch job but so far so good. Only thing so far to note is the little  flaky bits that may get left behind. Worries me that it may block up. I'm thinking of putting aluminium fly wire in the petcock hole to strain it. Just may need to check after a couple of tanks of fuel.  WONT BE USING TANK KREEM AGAIN. I EMAILED THE MANUFACTURER FOR ADVISE. NOT ONE REPLY. TYPICAL! 

[Jeff0308]

Well that's 2 days of my life I won't get back. 8 litres of acetone. Sore shoulders / back. A lot of shaking about.   The tool. / that made it so much easier was A round wire brush attachment made for a drill cable tied to a coat hanger. It fitted perfectly in to the filler hole. Let the acetone soften up the KREEM. Then with the aid of a key ring torch proceeded to scrub away. After that pressure clean it I Can happily say 99% of it is removed. Never ever again will I use any if that stuff. All back together. Started up. No leeks.yay. On a plus side. I got 1 scratch in the tank. I can live with that. The tank is covered with 3M venture shield car bra material. Acetone got over it and it has no reaction / spoilage. However it does react with the paint and clear left on long enough. Only thing I got to do is renew the venture shield and touch up the scratch. Just got yo change the filter regularly. Minor detail. Best part is. The fuel gauge works again. One more thing.... I now know when the fuel gauge is on empty I have exactly 5 litres of fuel left. The remainder of fuel when I emptied the tank filled my mower tin. Perfectly. The idiot light on the gauge doesn't light up when near empty. The consumption was 273km with 5 litres remaining. Happy with that after a 2 up ride.

[FJmonkey]

Jeff, good to hear your hard work paid off. Your Low Fuel light could be a burnt bulb, but you won't know till next time you pull the fairing off. I know that mine is defective. While I had the fairing off I replaced my dash lights with brighter LED bulbs. Since my tank was nearly empty I decided to test my Low Fuel light. I made sure I had a working standard bulb in place (don't use an LED for the low fuel light, it will stay on all the time) and drained the last of the fuel out. Bone dry and no light. It really is an idiot light, if I run out of fuel then I don't need a damn red light telling me I am an idiot.

I think it was the 2012 WCR that Marsh had issues with his tank liner. His bike was not running well and ended up pulling the carbs off. Big flakes of the liner were buggered up inside the passages. He must not have had fuel filter in place. Not sure what brand the liner was, but it made a mess of things.

[Timbox]

Living in Wisconsin we have lots of ethanol in the lower grades of gas. I have been told that it will eat away some of the tank liners.  The 86 I just picked up seems to have the Kreme liner in it too, so I will see what happens to the liner.  I will run only 91 without the ethanol, but the liner still might go.

In past bikes I have used the POS-15 kit that seems to work well.  I have not had issues with it flaking or peeling but then again, I only run non-ethanol gas in my bikes.

If things go bad with my 86 tank I might do the electrolysis rust removal and then a kit.  Either way it will not be fun but I hope the result is better if not permanent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmpDtBkpWnU

Glad you found the issue and thanks for the new insight on how to clean the kreme out of a tank.  Sorry you had to, but at least you know now what the issue was with the fuel level reading.

[Bones]

It's easy to check if the fuel light bulb is blown or not, with key on flick the kill switch off and press the start button, fuel light and oil light should light up.

With tank liners, proper preparation is important, and following the instructions exactly will ensure longevity. I did my Suzuki tank which was full of rust and had a few pin holes about 8/9 yrs ago with I think POR-15. Took ages getting the prep right, but looking in the tank now it's still as good as the day I did it.

[Jeff0308]

I know there are tiny specs of tank Kreme in there but if the high pressure cleaner / wire brush./ acetone  wasn't going to remove it then I think it's safe to say it's staying in. I have got an inline filter on. Am happy to pitch it out every few tanks. I'm going to take it for a test ride today to the city. 100km round trip. The fuel light globe is fine. When you flick the start switch it lights up. However the LED  dash lights idea sounds good. Can't ember what style of globe they are. It's a bitch to see at night. At least I know when the gauge is on "E" I've got a few litres left. I'm happy with that.  I might, in a few weeks give the tank another go with the acetone and wire brush to see if any " bits" come off. I'm one for " If a jobs worth doing its worth doing well" and " Do it  once and once only". It infuriates me if I have to double handle things. I did exactly what the TANK KREEM instructions said to the letter. What was really irritating was I sent the TANK KREEM company 2 emails requesting suggestions on " FIXING ISSUES" as I thought it may not have got to them. Not once did I get a reply!  Not certain if POR 15 is available here in australia. Really weiry about going down that path again.

[Bones]

It's available here Jeff, I bought mine from a paint shop for about $80.00, I see they've gone up in price.

http://www.ppcco.com.au/por19.html

[FJmonkey]

Bones, that is good to know, my low fuel light did illuminate when tested. So I know my sender is karked.

Jeff, the bulb type is L10. A standard L10 will provide about 50 Lumens of light. I chose an LED with close to 100 Lumens. No test ride yet but I hope to see the clock a bit better during the day and the light reflecting off my mirrored visor at night to light up the road a bit more than normal...

[ct7088]

POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit. This size worked for my tank. The hardest part is getting the excess sealer out of the tank. Getting the tank dry before using the sealer is a pain. You can't wait for it to dry naturally because it will start to rust.

Chris

[FJmonkey]

POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit. This size worked for my tank. The hardest part is getting the excess sealer out of the tank. Getting the tank dry before using the sealer is a pain. You can't wait for it to dry naturally because it will start to rust.

Chris

Yep, that flash rust can be a right bitch!!!

[Jeff0308]

Bones, that is good to know, my low fuel light did illuminate when tested. So I know my sender is karked.

Jeff, the bulb type is L10. A standard L10 will provide about 50 Lumens of light. I chose an LED with close to 100 Lumens. No test ride yet but I hope to see the clock a bit better during the day and the light reflecting off my mirrored visor at night to light up the road a bit more than normal...

FJ monkey. IHave tried to look up the replacement LED L10 bulbs you referred to. Can't find them. Any chance you can send me a photo of what they look like?  I'm keen to replace mine. Brighter would be good.  Cheers. Jeff