Changed oil/filter

Yamahammer1200 · October 01, 2015, 12:32:06 AM

Recently purchased bike. Changed oil to Motul 10W40 semisynthetic. Good choice?

TexasDave · October 01, 2015, 02:21:18 AM

Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on October 01, 2015, 12:32:06 AM
Recently purchased bike. Changed oil to Motul 10W40 semisynthetic. Good choice?

Arrrrrgh--another oil thread--just shoot me now!!!!

Phew. OK that said any good quality 10/40 motor oil whether it be dinosaur, semisynthetic or full synthetic should be fine as long as it is changed regularly to keep it clean. The argument over which brand is best can go on forever and become very heated. Use the "search" function for "oil type" and you can see what various members are using. Welcome to the forum. Dave

Urban_Legend · October 01, 2015, 03:30:35 AM

Quote from: TexasDave on October 01, 2015, 02:21:18 AM
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on October 01, 2015, 12:32:06 AM
Recently purchased bike. Changed oil to Motul 10W40 semisynthetic. Good choice?
Arrrrrgh--another oil thread--just shoot me now!!!! Phew. OK that said any good quality 10/40 motor oil whether it be dinosaur, semisynthetic or full synthetic should be fine as long as it is changed regularly to keep it clean. The argument over which brand is best can go on forever and become very heated. Use the "search" function for "oil type" and you can see what various members are using. Welcome to the forum. Dave

What He Said. Oil questions are loaded questions. Its like asking what tyre is best or What brand of fuel to use, and everyone has an opinion on it.

rktmanfj · October 01, 2015, 02:52:10 PM

Why not an oil thread?

It's been pretty dead here lately anyway. I think everyone got tired with two rallies the same week (especially Mike R.).

RotellaT here (though I'd like to find a synth that the ol' gal liked to consume a bit less).

TexasDave · October 01, 2015, 03:08:20 PM

OK Have to agree Rotella full syn is probably the best bang for the buck. Cheaper than most synthetics. The problem with semisynthetics is you have no idea how much synthetic is mixed with the dinosaur. Could be two drops. Pretty clever of the oil companies to get it set up this way. I am running Mobil full synthetic at the moment-- it was on sale at Walmart. Dave

racerrad8 · October 01, 2015, 03:19:11 PM

We changed over to Motul 4T 10w-40 full synthetic over the summer.

Happy with the results so far.

Randy - RPM

4everFJ · October 01, 2015, 03:27:30 PM

I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 full synthetic.

Very good for a hot air cooled 1100

TexasDave · October 01, 2015, 03:36:57 PM

Quote from: 4everFJ on October 01, 2015, 03:27:30 PM
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 full synthetic.

Very good for a hot air cooled 1100

Probably not as efficient at cooling our engines as 10/40. FJ is also oil cooled and thicker oil will not circulate as fast--especially in Denmark. Thicker is not always better. Dave

FJ1100mjk · October 01, 2015, 03:54:20 PM

Here, read through this: http://fjowners.wikidot.com/oil

rktmanfj · October 01, 2015, 04:48:15 PM

Quote from: TexasDave on October 01, 2015, 03:08:20 PM
OK Have to agree Rotella full syn is probably the best bang for the buck. Cheaper than most synthetics. The problem with semisynthetics is you have no idea how much synthetic is mixed with the dinosaur. Could be two drops. Pretty clever of the oil companies to get it set up this way. I am running Mobil full synthetic at the moment-- it was on sale at Walmart. Dave

Plus, with semi-synth, any advantage of the synth content is diminished.

movenon · October 01, 2015, 08:09:28 PM

I believe this to be true.

"Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics."

I believe the oil company's lobbyed to get any dino oil to be called "Synthetic" as long as they meet synthetic spec's.

Flynt · October 02, 2015, 01:20:01 AM

So the rebuild of Wizard's motor involved new cams. Turns out the cam difference required that I use a high Zink oil, presumably for lubrication benefit. I ran various oils trying to fix oil consumption and inadvertently hosed the camshafts (MegaCycle). The synthetics I ran that didn't do the job apparently include Valvoline, Motul, Redline, and Mobile 1. Turns out Randy's original recommendation is one of the 2 oils that are ok'd by the manufacturer of my new WebCams, so my rebuild will hopefully last more than 16K this time... sure is fun now though.

just thought I'd share that...

Frank

giantkiller · October 02, 2015, 06:56:32 AM

Frank, did Randy come up with a fix for the oil ring problem on the 1350s?. And what high zinc oil are you using? For the big cams.

4everFJ · October 02, 2015, 07:16:34 AM

Quote from: TexasDave on October 01, 2015, 03:36:57 PM
Quote from: 4everFJ on October 01, 2015, 03:27:30 PM
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 full synthetic.

Very good for a hot air cooled 1100
Probably not as efficient at cooling our engines as 10/40. FJ is also oil cooled and thicker oil will not circulate as fast--especially in Denmark. Thicker is not always better. Dave

The 50 in 10W50 is viscosity at high temperatures. I have used 10W40 in high temparatures in stop-n-go traffic (in Denmark..) and the oil had the viscosity of water...

Not a problem with 10W50, so I am sticking to that

Flynt · October 02, 2015, 09:20:01 AM

Quote from: giantkiller on October 02, 2015, 06:56:32 AM
Frank, did Randy come up with a fix for the oil ring problem on the 1350s?. And what high zinc oil are you using? For the big cams.

Wiseco came up with the fix and Randy figured out how to implement it with my old, already shrunk Wiseco pistons. The Valvoline VR1 Racing (non-synthetic) Randy has recommended all along is one of two WebCam recommends (Kendal is the other I think). I'm using 20-50...

Frank

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Changed oil/filter