Started on new Mains, Pilots, and Needle Shims

[Firehawk068]

Since she is running lean, I'm going to try 112.5 mains, 40 pilots, and shim the needles.







This is as far as I got, when a side-job stopped by.

I put 2 new rear shocks under this 1970 Buick Riviera-GS 455.



I made $40, and it took me 40 minutes. 

[Firehawk068]

Got some more work done on the carbs today.

Cleaned all the gunk off the exterior of the carb rack.





Then I set up my work-space.



I swear, these JIC screws are made of cheese! 





Good thing I had purchased Randy's Stainless Steel socket-head screw kit back when I purchased the UNI-pods.



These shorter ones are for the Diaphragm Caps.



Shimming the needles.



The smallest screws that come in Randy's kit are for the "Needle Retainer" screws.





After messing around, trying to cut flats into the sides of the first couple of stripped screws with my Dremel, I found it easier just to drill the heads off with a 1/4" drill bit.
I simply unscrewed what was left with my fingers.



Next, it was the 8 screws that hold the upper bracket on.



Then the 5 set-screws that hold the choke plunger brackets in place.





Next was the 8 screws that hold the lower bracket on.
These were larger than the rest of the screws.



Finally, the fuel bowls.



The first one I took off looks pretty darn clean inside.



This is as far as I got done today.

My next-door neighbor needed help with the back tire on his dirt-bike.
Then I got a call from one of my good friends in Long Beach, so I talked with him for awhile.
Then it was time to get cleaned up, and get ready to go to the "Stapleton Brew Fest"!

A good time was had by all! 

[Derek Young]

As I was looking through these project pics I was thinking "WTF, not even one beer in any of them!"
Glad you put that last one in there so we know its actually you buddy!


Derek

[Firehawk068]

As I was looking through these project pics I was thinking "WTF, not even one beer in any of them!"
Glad you put that last one in there so we know its actually you buddy!


Derek

I certainly had enough last night to hold me for a couple weeks! 

[Firehawk068]

Took the family to Colorado Springs today.

When I returned home, I finished up the carbs.

Factory was 110 mains, and 37.5 pilots.



After changing all the new jets over, I finished with the rest of the new stainless steel screws (so much nicer to use)

Fully assembled, ready to go back on the bike.



A quick check of the mixture screws to make sure they were all even, then popped the new plastic caps in place.



It didn't take long to button everything back together on the bike.





I fired it up, and let it warm up to check if the idle speed needed any adjustment, before putting the side covers back on. (no adjustment was needed, idles at 1100 rpm)

Ready for a test ride! 

[ribbert]

Use the softness of these screws to your advantage.

Vice grips will create these flats on the screw heads and give you enough purchase to turn the bike around.



If a butchered screw is hard to get at, try these.



Or, give the screw head a few sharp raps with a light hammer, this will do two things, loosen the thread and close over the PH slots making the driver a better fit.

It helps if you have the proper screw driver too. 

Ideally you would throw the screws in the bin once removed, but if you have to re use them, the vice grips do not destroy the head.

Noel

[Firehawk068]

Yup, I threw them all in the trash after removing them.
I don't ever want to see them again. 

I did get a couple of them off with vice-grips. Some I just could not reach with them.

[fj1289]

Another little trick is a touch of valve grinding paste on the business end of the screwdriver to help keep it from slipping

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Alan, I've been meaning to ask...when you took the UniPods and extension tubes off...
Did you find any evidence of oil (from the crankcase blowby) in those tubes or on the slides of the carbs?

At the WCR, Randy and I had a interesting discussion about crankcase venting with UniPods.
Many folks (as do you and I) agree that smelling the crankcase blowby when stopped at a signal is annoying.
I like your solution on venting the blowby into the carbs via the extension tubes.
However, Randy made a good point. On the original air box design the crankcase vent enters the airbox before the air filter panel. On your design the vent tubes enter after the UniPod filters in the direct vacuum stream of the airflow entering the carbs. The difference Randy pointed out was that the vacuum levels will be much higher on your design vs the oem airbox design. The higher vacuum levels *could possibly* pull more oil out of crankcase vapors....into the carbs.

Thus my question.

Thanks in advance. I sure had fun with you guys at the Central Rally. Let's do that again.  Pat

[Firehawk068]

Pat,

Randy and I had the very same discussion about the possibility of drawing too much oil vapor into cylinders 1 and 4. (I only have the breather tubes hooked to those two cylinders)
I kept this conversation in the back of my mind while I disassembled them to remove the carbs.

I didn't notice any oil residue on the inside of the carbs on those cylinders in question. I payed close attention to the slides, and made sure there was no oily coating on them.
I checked all 4 slides, and they seemed to all have the same feel to them.
They all seemed to return to closed position at the same rate, when held open with my fingers.

I figure, if it becomes an issue, I can always fit a small powersports catch-can under there and filter it before it gets drawn into the intake.
So far, no issue though.

[Pat Conlon]

Ok, good deal...Thanks!