Coil Relay

[movenon]

As I am waiting on some misc. parts from RPM (my bad in not ordering them sooner).  I decided to take the day and do the coil relay mod.  Haven't fired up the bike yet but it looks good.  I use to think the coil relay mod wasn't really needed but after doing a lot of upgrading reducing the load on the alternator I come to realize that the coil mod can certainly do no harm and IMO the stock FJ electrical system is not the best especially after 20 to 30 years of wear and corrosion of switch's, contacts and connectors.  Anyhow that was part of today's work on the FJ.



Here is the "how to" in the Files section.  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1755.0
George

[TexasDave]

Very clean installation.  Dave

[movenon]

Thanks. Around a year ago I had a member contact me about doing his and I had never done it so I wasn't to much help.  Hard to explain wiring.  The wires look complex but in reality it is real simple now that I have done it.  The original connectors are still in place and I could put it back to original by just unplugging the spade connectors and plugging the original connector back up.  Would take longer to remove the tank than to do the job.

My calculations show that the coils max amp draw would about 5.5 amps so I run it from a 10 amp fused line.  I used what I had on hand but if I were to buy a relay I would try to buy a waterproof relay just because. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html  ?

Also if anyone is just starting relay mods they might want to consider "Mini relays". http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html
If you use the mini relays I might suggest you order 1 extra for a spare as they are not to available at the local auto part stores.  That's a "Con" but they are small and if you plan on heated grips, horn, running lights, headlight relay mod then they can add up to a lot of mounting space.

Other sources
http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
George

[Mark Olson]

nice job 

It really made a difference for me when starting a hot FJ.

[Firehawk068]

Nice job george!

I haven't done this to mine yet.
It might be on my list. I have some spare relays, and an extra slot in my aux fuse panel. 

[movenon]

Thanks Alan.  If done properly I don't see a down side to doing the mod.  You can always plug the original FJ connectors back in and go back to stock.
George

[movenon]

Today I did a quality control and checked if everything was ready to fire up after the engine overhaul.  Installed the filter and oil then I cycled the engine thought with the plugs out and aux fuel tank hooked up until some oil started showing up at the oil port on the right side of the head then installed the plugs.

She coughed on the 2nd stab and fired up on the 3rd stab nice as you please.  Did a quick carb sync. and voltage check of the coil relay mod. while the engine was warming up.

Ignition on, not running:                     12.97 volts  (Almost new Lithium battery)
Voltage at the coils not running:          12.92 volts  (minimal voltage drop)
Voltage at the coils running:               13.55  (voltage increase from the regulator. This could be a concern if voltage go's over 15+ volts ?)

I am pleased with the mod.  Considering a 10 amp 15 volt limiting circuit as a safety factor to protect the DCI.?  Something to think about anyhow.

I can't say how much it helped because of the new rings, head work etc. all I can say is that it fires right up now (has compression and doesn't smoke    ).
George

[Pat Conlon]

Check the specs on your lithium battery re: maximum charging voltage, then adjust your Transpo accordingly.
The dedicated circuit on the coil relay will see *close* to what your battery sees in the way of running voltage.
Don't worry about your coils....worry about the charging voltage to your battery.

Congrats George, very few on this forum have ever done what you just did on your engine...including me.
Your decades of service in our Air Force is reflected in your skills. Someone has got to keep those birds in the air and it sure as hell is not the pilots.

[Flynt]

all I can say is that it fires right up now (has compression and doesn't smoke    ).
George

Great work George...  Inspirational to say the least.

Frank

[Arnie]

Congratulations.
Now go out and ride that thing :-)

[movenon]

Check the specs on your lithium battery re: maximum charging voltage, then adjust your Transpo accordingly.
The dedicated circuit on the coil relay will see *close* to what your battery sees in the way of running voltage.
Don't worry about your coils....worry about the charging voltage to your battery.

Congrats George, very few on this forum have ever done what you just did on your engine...including me.
Your decades of service in our Air Force is reflected in your skills. Someone has got to keep those birds in the air and it sure as hell is not the pilots.

Thanks, I will check the charging spec's for the battery and adjust the regulator accordingly. Thanks Pat.

I am not to concerned about the coils although we need them,  it is the other half of the circuit that can get expensive.  I am thinking that the voltage going into the coils feeds out into the DCI (orange and grey wires).  My thought is that the DCI (the orange and grey wires) are the trigger wires.  The DCI grounds the coils to fire them?  Probably over thinking it.  I know that no one else has ever reported an issue.  Another reason to have a voltmeter permanently installed on the bike.  Nothing like knowing.

On the overhaul a lot of others have done the same and much more.  I spent a lot of time digging through all the old posts here and on the UK forum.  Most of it is common sense.  The information here by you and others is invaluable. The "how to" is easy but most of that information is in a perfect world on a new machine.  The manual will not tell you how to deal with a stuck cylinder because of 30 years of corrosion, the best way to get the pistons back into there holes, or that if you do it with the engine in the frame that will will need to pull the sump, or alternate ways to measure something in a garage setting.  That's where the forum shines.

An example valve guide wear.  I have read "it feels good" or "not to loose" most of us at home don't have the correct gages.  As the world isn't perfect this is the way I checked the my guides.  And yes I know about round holes and oblong holes.   Scott is going to kill me.  

New installed EX guide spec. ......................     .2165-.2170
MAX guide inside diameter spec ..................     .219 in
Buy a 7/32 rod (cheap off e bay) the rod is        .2188 in  If that rod go's down the guide hole, guess what. You are out of limits or damn close.
My rod will not go in the hole.  Good.  
Now I chuck up the rod in a drill press and start turning it down with fine sand paper and keep going until it barely fits in the EX guide.
Measure that with a digital caliper.  Oh, I am at    .2176  So I say good enough.  Not new but OK..
Now I have a closer idea than  "it feels good" (and it did feel good).  
Product plug:  Buy RPM's valve stem seals...  

Thanks to you and the others Pat for all the information in this site.
George

[fjfool]

very nice

[FJmonkey]

Awesome George, glad to see your are getting things sorted and something you can be proud of and enjoy.

[FJ_Hooligan]

I am not to concerned about the coils although we need them,  it is the other half of the circuit that can get expensive.  I am thinking that the voltage going into the coils feeds out into the DCI (orange and grey wires).  My thought is that the DCI (the orange and grey wires) are the trigger wires.  The DCI grounds the coils to fire them?  Probably over thinking it.  I know that no one else has ever reported an issue.  Another reason to have a voltmeter permanently installed on the bike.  Nothing like knowing.

The way I understand ignitions is the orange and grey wires coming from the pickup(s) on the crank rotor tell the ignition which coil needs to be "fired."

The ignition fires the coil by interrupting the ground side of the coil circuit (up until this point, current has been flowing through the coil charging it up since the last firing).  When the ground is gone, current stops flowing and the coil discharges through the spark plug.

DISCLAIMER: I've been know to be wrong on many occasions.

[Mark Olson]

All right George, back on the road again.
Good work.