Front wheel chock recommendations?

[Capn Ron]

Hi all!

Hope your holidays were as happy as mine!  

I'm looking to put a wheel chock on the flatbed trailer and wondered what you guys have used, liked and can recommend.  Under $100 is the target...I've seen the Baxley and I'd typically go for that, but this will probably be used ONCE.  I'll need it to pick up a project bike this week and there is a possibility that I would trailer the FJ at some point in the future.

Any "quick and easy" solutions out there that worked great?  Any "Totally worth the $90" products you've used?  Simple home fab ideas?

[movenon]

Easy and cheap Harbor Freight. 20-30 bucks.  
Tip: The front is tapered , put a 2X2 stick in front to prevent the tire from "jamming" into the wedged area.

George

[Mark Olson]

Harbor Freight and use a coupon , or cycle gear has a decent one.

[FJ_Hooligan]

I use the PINGLE removable wheel chock.  It fits your budget and is really stable.

http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/removable-wheel-chocks.asp

I have a free standing "ride-in" chock from Cycle Gear and rarely use it.  It is big and bulky.  It's almost impossible to ride into unless it's bolted down.  And like George says, once I'm in it, it wedges the front tire and I need help to get it back out.  I'll be trying the 2x2 trick (thanks!)

[movenon]

I use the PINGLE removable wheel chock.  It fits your budget and is really stable.

http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/removable-wheel-chocks.asp

I have a free standing "ride-in" chock from Cycle Gear and rarely use it.  It is big and bulky.  It's almost impossible to ride into unless it's bolted down.  And like George says, once I'm in it, it wedges the front tire and I need help to get it back out.  I'll be trying the 2x2 trick (thanks!)

The first time I used it I had the same "wedging" problem.  A bitch to get the bike out. 
For the last WCR I cut a stick 2X2 or there about to rest in front of the tire. This distributes the load across the thread and prevented the side walls from wedging in.  Worked great.  Gave one on my sticks to LAMike when I departed for his chock.  You might adjust the 2X2 dimension but you get the idea.  Next summer I plan on cutting the hoop and welding a re-curved cross tube or bar for the wheel but the wood stick works fine. The back part of the chock has a 3 position up and down adjustment, I am using the middle hole with a 17 inch rim for what ever it is worth.

George

[movenon]

For "search" purposes.  "oz.FJ" had a small trailer with 2 FJ's on it and for anyone wanting to build a trailer or mount 2 wheel chocks for FJ's Here is his dimensions
You will have to scroll down 7 posts. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9788.msg110579#msg110579

Scrolling down on this page shows his trailer. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9788.450

That's the dimensions I used as a minimums for mine.  The 60mm offset is important.

George

[Capn Ron]

Easy and cheap Harbor Freight. 20-30 bucks.  
Tip: The front is tapered , put a 2X2 stick in front to prevent the tire from "jamming" into the wedged area.

George

Do you find that the FJ front wheel goes into that without hitting the rotors?

[movenon]

Easy and cheap Harbor Freight. 20-30 bucks.  
Tip: The front is tapered , put a 2X2 stick in front to prevent the tire from "jamming" into the wedged area.

George

Do you find that the FJ front wheel goes into that without hitting the rotors?

I have used it 2 times with the FJ.   Total of 2000 to 2500 miles of towing distance and the rotors clear fine. Even with the 60 series front tire.
George

Here is a picture in the Gallery that you can blow up. It has more space than it looks like.  From memory 3/4 of an inch on each side. Really no problem. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7308

Even the first time with the tire forward into the wedge it still cleared.

[hein]

Very cheap and easy.

Two pieces of metal channel about 18 in. long. Use a zip cut or an angle grinder to notch the sides and weld the two together to form the angle you want. 90-110 degrees. For additional strenght weld a piece of 1/8 by 3/4 steel strap to each side low enough to clear the discs. Triangle.  Drill two holes and bolt to deck.

Regardless of what you buy or build add 4 threaded eyebolts for your tiedowns and your golden. Build time about 30 min.

Hein.

[aviationfred]

Easy and cheap Harbor Freight. 20-30 bucks.  
Tip: The front is tapered , put a 2X2 stick in front to prevent the tire from "jamming" into the wedged area.

George

Do you find that the FJ front wheel goes into that without hitting the rotors?

I have the same wheel chocks that George is using. I have had no issue with the 300mm Arashi rotors contacting the chock bars.

I am wrapping up my vacation and will be headed back to Kansas tomorrow. Having trailered to the WCR and this vacation, I will have over 6300 miles using the Harbor Freight trailer and wheel chocks. Other than a tire gator tearing a running light off, I have had zero negative issues with either.

[ribbert]

If it's only for one use or maybe two, I use ratchet tie downs, strategically placed they will have the bike rock solid.

I also only transport a bike occasionally and don't feel it warrants spending any money.  It also means I'm not tied down to one vehicle or trailer.

Noel

[Capn Ron]

Very cheap and easy.

Two pieces of metal channel about 18 in. long. Use a zip cut or an angle grinder to notch the sides and weld the two together to form the angle you want. 90-110 degrees. For additional strenght weld a piece of 1/8 by 3/4 steel strap to each side low enough to clear the discs. Triangle.  Drill two holes and bolt to deck.

Regardless of what you buy or build add 4 threaded eyebolts for your tiedowns and your golden. Build time about 30 min.

Hein.

Hein,

I think I'm liking this idea the best...Not only "Made in America"..."Made in MY GARAGE!"   

Seems as if all we're trying to accomplish is keeping the front wheel in place...tie downs to compress the front suspension down and forward into the front stop.  Simple.  While I've got the welder out, I could knock out a few to be able to haul friend's bikes around.

[Capn Ron]

If it's only for one use or maybe two, I use ratchet tie downs, strategically placed they will have the bike rock solid.

I also only transport a bike occasionally and don't feel it warrants spending any money.  It also means I'm not tied down to one vehicle or trailer.

Noel

I like it Noel...I think I'll go that route but just add a home-made bit of track with a front stop as Hein suggested.  I'm probably riding from the WCR to the Central (Black Hills Rally) in May/June.  That's a 1,400 miles of mostly desert freeway and it got me thinking about trailering options.

[movenon]

One detail on the H.F. chock and others of the same design because of the cage flipping up on the rear of the tire is that once it is rolled in you can walk away from it and it will self support while you tie it down. One person operation other than rolling it in.
George 

[spsmith_fj1200]

I use this one from Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/1800-lb-capacity-motorcycle-standwheel-chock-61670.html
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when I do not want to pull out the Condor.  Both can hold up my big motorcycles while I have changed the exhausts.

I have Pingle chocks to haul motorcycles.  I prefer the Condor and the Harbor Freight since they will hold the motorcycle upright while I am attaching the tie down straps.