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Endless air bubbles.

Started by roverfj1200, December 27, 2014, 01:16:13 AM

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Burns

thanks Pat. If I understand this (always a big "if") simply loosening the reservoir lid to allow air pressure to equalize in the reservoir and then letting the bike just sit awhile will "bubble bleed" the air out of a properly functioning system.

I used to "squirt gun" bleed (loosen the bleeder/put a finger over the hole and pump the lever (keeping the res full). Kinda messy, but I was out in the yard in those days. But like Clint Eastwood in The Unforgiven, I'm not like that any more.
There's nothing you can do that can't be done.

fjfool

where is this "c" hole on this master?

ribbert

Quote from: fjfool on February 05, 2015, 06:03:33 PM
where is this "c" hole on this master?

It's the one that will squirt brake fluid all over your tank if not careful, that's how it got the name, "C"--- (aka the "F"port, the "B"port etc)

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Pat Conlon

C stands for compensating..

Open up the resevoir, lift up the bottom plate, you will see at the bottom 2 holes. The larger hole is pressure port and the smaller hole is the compensating port. Squeeze the lever, you will see a little geyser of fluid flow out of the compensating port when you release the lever. This compensating port relieves the hydraulic pressure on the system when the lever is released.

When flush your brake fluid you should clean out your reservoir. To do  this correctly you must remove the bottom plate and clean the accumulated gunk out of this area. You can't properly clean your resvoir otherwise.
You will be surprised how much crud hides under that plate.

The symptoms of a plugged C port is a locked brake system, squeeze and release the brake lever and the brakes stay locked... or the clutch stays disengaged, squeeze and release the clutch lever and the clutch slave stays pressurized.

Hope this helps.

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

scotiafj

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 27, 2014, 11:49:14 AM
I found when using my MityVac, air bubbles, but a wrap of teflon tape on the bleeder port threads solved that issue.

Also, make sure you use fresh crush washers. They work harden from compression and if you don't have new washers available your old one's can be re softened with a butane torch.
Thank you LA Mike for this tip.... :good2:

Yep all the yamaha's Ive had all the bleed nipples (ports) seem to be a loose fit i the threads .as you say a wrap of teflon tape round them seals nicely  :good:

Tony Mac


[/quote]
Tony, nothing to worry about, a piston and a seal, that's it.
Why do they need rebuilding anyway?
Noel
[/quote]

Hi Noel,
I pushed my pistons back too far when I replaced my front tyre and so when I applied the brakes to bring the lever back up, the bloody things locked on. :dash2:
This prompted me to pull them apart to clean them and I found after 125000 k's the insides of the cylinder grooves were crusty and the seals were perished.
I've cleaned the grooves now so I'm just waiting now for the bits to arrive so I can get stuck into it and have them right before heading to Grafton.
Having read all these posts on Bleeding, I should have the job done in a flash. I hope.
Lets see what happens.
Be Good.
Tony.
'92 FJ1200
'80 Suzuki GSX 750ET Shirley (Gone to god )
'04 Yamaha XVS1100A Tom (Sold)