removing lower frame rails under engine

[krusty]

I want to paint the removeable frame rails that run under the engine of my 1200. Is it possible to remove these and leave the engine in.

[FJmonkey]

I want to paint the removeable frame rails that run under the engine of my 1200. Is it possible to remove these and leave the engine in.

Yes, you may need to loosen the fasteners holding the foot pegs but you can remove them safely to paint them.

[Pat Conlon]

I want to paint the removeable frame rails that run under the engine of my 1200. Is it possible to remove these and leave the engine in.

Yes, you may need to loosen the fasteners holding the foot pegs but you can remove them safely to paint them.

....and the shifter pivot, then the brake pedal, then unbolt the rear m/c, unscrew your side stand safety switch, then remove the aluminum side panels to get to the 4 rear cradle bolts (you don't have to remove the swing arm pivot bolt on the late model FJ's)
Then, remove the exhaust system and support the front part of the engine with a block on a floor jack, then remove the 6 front engine bolts and finally the 4 top cradle bolts.

I just did this yesterday. I found 3 of the 4 rear cradle bolts sheared off. 
After I "easy out" the broken bits ( why do they call it 'easy out'? Ain't nothing easy about it) I'm gonna drill and tap to replace the soft M8x1.25 button head bolts with some stainless M10x1.5 bolts.

The cradle is already sized for the M10's I wonder why Yamaha used the smaller M8's?

[FJmonkey]

I want to paint the removeable frame rails that run under the engine of my 1200. Is it possible to remove these and leave the engine in.

Yes, you may need to loosen the fasteners holding the foot pegs but you can remove them safely to paint them.

....and the shifter pivot, then the brake pedal, then unbolt the rear m/c, unscrew your side stand safety switch, then remove the aluminum side panels to get to the 4 rear cradle bolts (you don't have to remove the swing arm pivot bolt on the late model FJ's)
Then, remove the exhaust system and support the front part of the engine with a block on a floor jack, then remove the 6 front engine bolts and finally the 4 top cradle bolts.

I just did this yesterday. I found 3 of the 4 rear cradle bolts sheared off. 
After I "easy out" the broken bits ( why do they call it 'easy out'? Ain't nothing easy about it) I'm gonna drill and tap to replace the soft M8x1.25 button head bolts with some stainless M10x1.5 bolts.

The cradle is already sized for the M10's I wonder why Yamaha used the smaller M8's?

Something vexes thee?....

[movenon]

Wow, 3 out 4 bolts sheared off ! Didn't know those lower arms were so optional ! Good catch.  What was your first indication of a problem ?
George

[ZOA NOM]

I want to paint the removeable frame rails that run under the engine of my 1200. Is it possible to remove these and leave the engine in.

Yes, you may need to loosen the fasteners holding the foot pegs but you can remove them safely to paint them.

I just did this yesterday. I found 3 of the 4 rear cradle bolts sheared off. 
After I "easy out" the broken bits ( why do they call it 'easy out'? Ain't nothing easy about it) I'm gonna drill and tap to replace the soft M8x1.25 button head bolts with some stainless M10x1.5 bolts.

The cradle is already sized for the M10's I wonder why Yamaha used the smaller M8's?

I tried the "easy-out" method, to no avail. Wound up riding the bike over to RPM and Randy used his mig welder to tack a nut onto the stub and unscrew it. Only after significant heat did she let go of her blue-locktight grip. I hadn't considered his method, which was to weld across the inner edge of a nut and bridge it to the sheared off bolt in the hole. Then heat it up while twisting with a pair of vise grips. Worked like a charm, even after I had kluged it up with the easy-out.

[Pat Conlon]

Wow, 3 out 4 bolts sheared off ! Didn't know those lower arms were so optional ! Good catch.  What was your first indication of a problem ?
George

I found it by doing a tear down on the Texan '93 ABS bike. Lots of stuff to do...for sure.

Based on what I found, I'm going to check those lower frame bolts on my (Paul's) '92...

While I drill/tap one bike, I might as well do the other.

[giantkiller]

I had to put 10s in the 1350.  Still have to do the 89 and the turbo bike.

[movenon]

Wow, 3 out 4 bolts sheared off ! Didn't know those lower arms were so optional ! Good catch.  What was your first indication of a problem ?
George

I found it by doing a tear down on the Texan '93 ABS bike. Lots of stuff to do...for sure.

Based on what I found, I'm going to check those lower frame bolts on my (Paul's) '92...

While I drill/tap one bike, I might as well do the other.

I forgot you had that another bike. I see. When I bought my bike it had 1 bolt missing, the threads were stripped so I did the drill and tap program to that one bolt.  Can't wait to see it when you are done.  Will be prepared with sunglasses.  

George

[ribbert]

/quote]

I found the same when I bought FJ#2, sort of makes sticking a jack under the front of the motor overkill. Ever since discovering that, I have let the motor hang from the rear bolts when fitting / removing.

I never rode it with 3 broken bolts but the PO must have. There was much evidence of movement over a very long time, rubbing, elongated holes and the remains of the broken studs all smoothed off.

When I went to bolt it all up with the motor, everything lined up perfectly. I wouldn't have been surprised if something had "spread"

Noel

[The General]

I want to paint the removeable frame rails that run under the engine of my 1200. Is it possible to remove these and leave the engine in.

Yes, you may need to loosen the fasteners holding the foot pegs but you can remove them safely to paint them.

....and the shifter pivot, then the brake pedal, then unbolt the rear m/c, unscrew your side stand safety switch, then remove the aluminum side panels to get to the 4 rear cradle bolts (you don't have to remove the swing arm pivot bolt on the late model FJ's)
Then, remove the exhaust system and support the front part of the engine with a block on a floor jack, then remove the 6 front engine bolts and finally the 4 top cradle bolts.

I just did this yesterday. I found 3 of the 4 rear cradle bolts sheared off. 
After I "easy out" the broken bits ( why do they call it 'easy out'? Ain't nothing easy about it) I'm gonna drill and tap to replace the soft M8x1.25 button head bolts with some stainless M10x1.5 bolts.

The cradle is already sized for the M10's I wonder why Yamaha used the smaller M8's?

Are you sure Stainless is the way to go in that position? I wouldn`t use stainless on the drive side especially. I`m still trying to figure why these bolts break and I reckon that back adjusting screw direct on the motor plays a part. 

[fj1289]

Pat - just be sure to drill and tap into the frame directly.   DO NOT attempt to "over engineer" the repair/upgrade by installing threaded inserts ... I did that years ago and have regretted in many times since!  I figured a threaded insert would be more durable than simply tapping the frame - wrong!  There's not enough meat in the frame to support the insert.   The repair to the botched repair is pretty ugly...  It definately takes age and experience to fix what you buggered up years ago with youth and enthusiasm!   

[ribbert]

Pat - just be sure to drill and tap into the frame directly.   DO NOT attempt to "over engineer" the repair/upgrade by installing threaded inserts ... I did that years ago and have regretted in many times since!  I figured a threaded insert would be more durable than simply tapping the frame - wrong!  There's not enough meat in the frame to support the insert.   The repair to the botched repair is pretty ugly...  It definately takes age and experience to fix what you buggered up years ago with youth and enthusiasm!  

I just drilled and tapped the next size up, never had a problem. Used high tensile flanged bolts, elbow torqued them and no loctite. I check them periodically, good as the day I put them in.

Noel

[FJmonkey]

The properties of stainless steel already make the same size bolt more resistant to shear failure. Going up a bolt size makes it that much stronger.

[Pat Conlon]

The properties of stainless steel already make the same size bolt more resistant to shear failure. Going up a bolt size makes it that much stronger.

Exactly my thinking Mark. The 10.2 grade stainless is a step up from those oem Yamaha M8's

Yes, a direct drill and tap into the frame, no inserts. Paul Lawson made some drill bushings which fit into the cradle holes that hold the drill bit dead nuts center for drilling into the frame.

Doug, I'm thinking about your comment on not using stainless bolts.

Now here's the deal... The Yamaha engineers are smart folks.
Why would they design a lower cradle sized for M10 bolts and only put in M8's? ...and not a high grade steel M8's at that. It is a sloppy fit.
This is in a newly designed frame for the rubber mounted late model FJ's. New stuff here. Fresh start.

Could it be a purposely designed weak link? These soft M8's shear off before the frame cracks, by design?