clutch slave rebuild ?'s

[shockeymon]

Couple of questions. First is there an easy way to remove the inner rubber seal around the push rod? Also should the push rod be lubed? And lastly the 2 long bolts holding the slave on had thread compound on them, but the short 1 did not. Is this correct? Thanks!

[FJmonkey]

The seal just needs to be carefully pried out, avoiding damage to the sealing area on the case. There will be oil behind the push rod with the engine running so if you like you could lube the new seal with a drop or two of engine oil. I don't use thread compounds on these bolts, just proper torque with a torque wrench. Hope this helps.

[shockeymon]

Thanks. That brings up another question been meaning to ask. I have a Craftsman "click" torque wrench I use for everything, but doesn't go low enough for small bolts. Is there something out there reasonably priced that you guys recommend for light applications?

[movenon]

Thanks. That brings up another question been meaning to ask. I have a Craftsman "click" torque wrench I use for everything, but doesn't go low enough for small bolts. Is there something out there reasonably priced that you guys recommend for light applications?

I have a Snap on flex head "click" type torque wrench and find it lacking for low torque settings.. There are other problems with that type of tq wrench but I will not go into that.  IMO the best deal is go to Sears and buy a 3/8 beam torque wrench, 0-75 ft lbs.  I have 3 beam's and use them 98% of the time.  The 3/8 inch Sears unit was on sale recently for 14.00 but even at the regular price it is a good deal.  It is something that you use a lot with any bike.
George

I see they are 16.99 dollars now http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6.

[FJmonkey]

I use this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html

On sale now for $21.99, normally $29.99, 20 to 200 in/lbs (1.66 to 16.66 ft/lbs.). Plus I have a larger one for the bigger fasteners.

[FJ1100mjk]

I've got both of the above ^^ torque wrenches, and use the HF click type exclusively for the M6 and smaller fasteners that thread into aluminum. Particularly the soft stuff that is used on the FJ engine. The M6's fastening torque hovers around 7 - 8 Foot × Pound if I recall correctly, which is about half of full scale on the HF torque wrench. I'm a little leary of using the Sears torque wrench in these areas due to the M6's torque being in the lower end of this torque wrench's full scale of 75 Foot x Pound. But that's just me.

You really can't beat the HF torque wrenches on price and performance, and most owners' reviews are favorable of them, including mine.

[racerrad8]

Couple of questions. First is there an easy way to remove the inner rubber seal around the push rod? Also should the push rod be lubed? And lastly the 2 long bolts holding the slave on had thread compound on them, but the short 1 did not. Is this correct? Thanks!

Slide the pushrod all the way out. You can then insert a screwdriver into the center and gently pry it out.

You need to clean all of the crude off the pushrod at the seal anyhow, so no concerns about removing it. I put a little oil on it before I install it to lube the seal, after that the oil system takes over.

No, the bolts should all be dry. If they have any type of compound or oil on the threads the can strip out much easier.

Randy - RPM

[racerrad8]

I see they are 16.99 dollars now http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6.

For small bolts like that you need an "in-lb" torque wrench.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

...or just put your 8mm socket on a screwdriver handle and go hand tight...

[FJ1100mjk]

...or just put your 8mm socket on a screwdriver handle and go hand tight...

Tight", like snug, is subjective to who's doing it. Numbers are solid data. Like left and right, port and starboard, unless referenced incorrectly.   

[movenon]

I see they are 16.99 dollars now http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6.

For small bolts like that you need an "in-lb" torque wrench.

Randy - RPM

Got one of those also.  I have used it for working on some automatic transmissions.  I like the range of the HF wrench, just not fond of the design but that is probably over thinking the issue.  Has anyone used any of the new digital read out TQ adapters ?  
George

[Pat Conlon]

Hey guys, need some help...last year someone posted about pressing in a stainless steel sleeve in their clutch slave...I can't find the post.

I recall some words to the effect: "Don't throw those old clutch slaves away..."  I would like to save this over in the clutch files...Thx

[movenon]

Hey guys, need some help...last year someone posted about pressing in a stainless steel sleeve in their clutch slave...I can't find the post.

I recall some words to the effect: "Don't throw those old clutch slaves away..."  I would like to save this over in the clutch files...Thx

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12294.msg122145#msg122145 ?
George

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks George!

[shockeymon]

Sorry that should have said thread locking compound ie. Loctite on the threads. Pretty sure the manual also calls for it. The 2 bolts with it on were a lot tougher to pull out. Just couldn't understand why all 3 didn't have it. I bought the bike new so came from factory this way. Thanks everyone for feedback.

Slide the pushrod all the way out. You can then insert a screwdriver into the center and gently pry it out.

You need to clean all of the crude off the pushrod at the seal anyhow, so no concerns about removing it. I put a little oil on it before I install it to lube the seal, after that the oil system takes over.

No, the bolts should all be dry. If they have any type of compound or oil on the threads the can strip out much easier.

Randy - RPM
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