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New owner with a few problems!

Started by DaveA, December 03, 2009, 04:07:14 PM

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DaveA

Hello,

I've just bought home my first FJ 1100 (84) and after spending a few hours in the garage with it, i have a few questions!

a) My rev counter is bouncing all over the place, sometimes not registering at all or going crazy!  From looking round the forum, is my best bet to clean all the pins in the connectors near the headstock/under the tank, and follow the grey wire cleaning as i go?  Is there any more info on the crazy rev counter?

b) fuel needle isn't registering anything.  Is this common?  is it just a case of replacing the sensor on the tank? or are there any other tricks, or is it another case of clean the terminals ;)

c) Neutral light is flickering on and off, sometimes staying off till i go through a few gears and return.

d) there's two wire's that have broken off going into the clutch cylinder, any idea's what these do?

e) when i put a bit of weight on the front end with the brake on, i get a bit of a hissing from the right fork, will this be a seal that needs replacing?  is there any way to stiffen up the front suspension?

f) as i'm used to having a temp sensor, i feel a bit lost without one.  Is there a warning light that will come on if it overheats?

g) A big one i forgot about, you can pull the gear shift pedal straight off if you want!  I can't see anything missing, or how it would hold in place solid though, most confusing!

Sorry for the barage of questions, but going from never owning one to trying to get it through it's M.O.T, there's alot to think about!

DaveA

And one other issue :)   I decided to drain the tank of stale fuel, as this bike has been sat for a year or so.  By the time i couldn't get any more fuel to come out of the tap into the bucket, there was still plenty of fuel sloshing about in the tank.....any ideas why this would be?

mz_rider

Dave,

Welcome to the FJ fraternity! Sounds like your bike has some electrical issues. This isn't my field but here's my input:

a)   Don't know.
b)   Check the connector on the wire from the tank. This will be attached to the frame under the seat.
c)   Again, don't know.
d)   The wires are to a sensor on the clutch lever. This allows the starter to spin when in gear if the clutch is in.
e)   Probably, but there should be oil leaking as well. Stiffer springs are a must.
f)   No, but overheating is not a problem.
g)   The gear lever should be attached by the footrest screw.

Check out the UK FJOC website. They have an extensive parts/accessories catalogue.

http://www.fjclub.co.uk/fudge/fj/page13.php

As for the fuel problem – I've been there. After a few years the fuel can turn to gum and will block the tap. If this happens inside the carb you will have real problems.

Stuart (Glasgow, Scotland)


Arnie

DaveA,

So many problems .....

a, Yes, certainly check and clean all electrical terminals.  Tach is driven off the coils so make sure you include those connections in your cleanup

b, There is a 2 wire connector from the rear of the tank to the wiring loom.  This is easy to overlook when replacing the tank.  Make sure its connected.  Fuel meter may have "jumped" over the top and is now resting on the bottom pin. You can temporarily fix this by using a magnet to get the needle back to the correct side.

c, This sounds like the neutral indicator switch is gummed up or ready to completely die.  You may just have to replace it.

d, Are you talking about the clutch Master cylinder or the Slave cylinder?  If the Master, then those wires should go to the switch that is part of the starting safety circuit allowing you to start the bike in gear if the clutch is pulled in.  If these are near the Slave, then they should go to the sidestand switch which is also part of the safety (nanny) circuit keeping you from having the bike in gear with the sidestand down.

e, Replace the fork seals, put more than recommended oil in, use heavier oil, put in a longer preload spacer.  Proper answer is to replace the fork springs with heavier straight rate units as well as all above.

f, No OEM warning light.  You can install a temp sensor or a dipstick guage, but it will probably just scare you.  These don't seem to have any problem with heat unless you're stuck in traffic in temps you're not likely to see in UK.

g, The gear shift lever should have a bolt and washer on the end of the pivot shaft to hold the lever in place.  The linkage also makes it difficult to pull the lever away from the pivot shaft.

h, Fuel petcock may be gummed up and/or you may not have the lever in the PRIME position which bypasses the vacuum operation.

Hope some of this helps.  At least you have most of your winter to go over the bike thoroughly and make it right.  Also, do check out the UKFJOC as already suggested

Cheers,
Arnie
 
Quote from: DaveA on December 03, 2009, 04:07:14 PM
Hello,

I've just bought home my first FJ 1100 (84) and after spending a few hours in the garage with it, i have a few questions!

a) My rev counter is bouncing all over the place, sometimes not registering at all or going crazy!  From looking round the forum, is my best bet to clean all the pins in the connectors near the headstock/under the tank, and follow the grey wire cleaning as i go?  Is there any more info on the crazy rev counter?

b) fuel needle isn't registering anything.  Is this common?  is it just a case of replacing the sensor on the tank? or are there any other tricks, or is it another case of clean the terminals ;)

c) Neutral light is flickering on and off, sometimes staying off till i go through a few gears and return.

d) there's two wire's that have broken off going into the clutch cylinder, any idea's what these do?

e) when i put a bit of weight on the front end with the brake on, i get a bit of a hissing from the right fork, will this be a seal that needs replacing?  is there any way to stiffen up the front suspension?

f) as i'm used to having a temp sensor, i feel a bit lost without one.  Is there a warning light that will come on if it overheats?

g) A big one i forgot about, you can pull the gear shift pedal straight off if you want!  I can't see anything missing, or how it would hold in place solid though, most confusing!

Sorry for the barage of questions, but going from never owning one to trying to get it through it's M.O.T, there's alot to think about!

RichBaker

Quote from: DaveA on December 03, 2009, 04:07:14 PM
Hello,

I've just bought home my first FJ 1100 (84) and after spending a few hours in the garage with it, i have a few questions!

a) My rev counter is bouncing all over the place, sometimes not registering at all or going crazy!  From looking round the forum, is my best bet to clean all the pins in the connectors near the headstock/under the tank, and follow the grey wire cleaning as i go?  Is there any more info on the crazy rev counter?   The ground is connected to the frame near the coils, could loose or bad connection.

b) fuel needle isn't registering anything.  Is this common?  is it just a case of replacing the sensor on the tank? or are there any other tricks, or is it another case of clean the terminals ;)  Is it connected?

c) Neutral light is flickering on and off, sometimes staying off till i go through a few gears and return.   Probably a dirty or bad switch, it's in the plastic block under the countershaft sprocket cover. Could be a broken wire, too.

d) there's two wire's that have broken off going into the clutch cylinder, any idea's what these do? If it's the master cylinder, there's a switch there that's part of the starter circuit

e) when i put a bit of weight on the front end with the brake on, i get a bit of a hissing from the right fork, will this be a seal that needs replacing?  is there any way to stiffen up the front suspension? Probably a loose fork cap.

f) as i'm used to having a temp sensor, i feel a bit lost without one.  Is there a warning light that will come on if it overheats? Nope.... don't worry about it. Or, you could add an oil temp gauge....

g) A big one i forgot about, you can pull the gear shift pedal straight off if you want!  I can't see anything missing, or how it would hold in place solid though, most confusing!   It uses a circlip, see the 'fiche here: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

Sorry for the barage of questions, but going from never owning one to trying to get it through it's M.O.T, there's alot to think about!
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

DaveA

Hi all,

thanks for all the reply's so far, been very helpful!

Just to update, the fuel needle is resting the correct side of the pin, and the cable running from the back of the tank is also connected (although it's a 3 pin connector for me, not a 2 pin).

There is a bolt in the end of the .... can't call it a spline as it has no grooves but the part where the gear change pedal attaches, but there isn't a washer to hold the pedal on there, should i just pop to b&q to get a washer? seems the easiest solution.

The neutral light seems to have sorted itself out a bit now, so hopefully it will stay that way.

I'm not overly technical, but if the clutch master cylinder is the one on the grips attached to the leaver? then that's the one i'm on about.

The fuel tap i have set to the horizontal position, as far as i know in basic terms horizontal is on, and vertical is off, please correct me if i'm wrong on this!   I can see all over eBay that there's lots of fuel tap repair kits available for the FJ, is there a common problem with it i should be looking for?

So...tonight and over the weekend i will give it many more hours, and update you as to how it's going.  All i have to do now is find where the oil filter's located!

Just to let you know, it';s not all doom and gloom.  It's had the rear shock replaced, the whole frame powder coated and wheels done, and the engine seems to be running fine!  It's not a complete wrecker, just has some niggles to iron out from being left standing for so long, and only being half completed as someone's restoration project!

andyb

Quote from: DaveA on December 04, 2009, 05:18:26 AM
the clutch master cylinder is the one on the grips attached to the leaver? then that's the one i'm on about.
Correct.  The slave cylinder is the one that usually leaks, and is slightly above and in front of your left foot when you're riding, right above the oil filter.

DaveA

Hi all,

I've run it through a bit with some carb/engine treatment as it's misfiring/backfiring occasionally, and really doesn't like the choke being used (just stalls it, and won't tick over without throttle when cold)  In doing this i've run the fuel low enough for the fuel light to come on, so i know the connection seems ok to the tank, but still no fuel gauge working.

I also can't see how this gear pedal is ment to attach....should there be a split washer type thing that sit's in the groove on the end of the peg it sits on?  Can provide photo's of anything if required :)

DaveA

The more i read on this forum, the more questions i get!  Should i just carry on ranting in this thread, or start a new one for different issues :)  As the fuel line on this appeared to be garden hose, i replaced it last night.   Reading through these forums apparently there very tetchy about the right length and route of the fuel pipe, although the link to the images of how it should be wern't working.   Does anyone know the length it should be?  I just found a free service manual here http://motoservicemanuals.blogspot.com/2009/04/yamaha-fj-11001200-service-manual.html   .  Hopefully i can answer some of my own silly questions with it when it's done, slow download though.

tqmx1

Shift linkage you need 3 parts,

90109-081A5-00  Bolt
90201-124E4-00  washer
99009-12400-00  circlip

The washer and circlip can be picked up at any hardware store the bolt is go direct to yamaha.

As for the fuel line if you are running pod filters any routing will do but if it has the stock airbox get a new line from Yamaha (pre bent)

36Y-24312-00-00

Good luck

DaveA

You're an absolute star for that Tqmx1, thanks for the part codes, know what i need to do now ;)   one problem ticked off the list.

For the fuel line, i used some fuel injection hosing that's quite flexible, at the moment it goes 270 degrees round the tap so it points directly down to the y joint.   So far this seems to be working fine and gives me the flexability to move the tank a bit, but has only been tested stationary in my garage, so i might find some problems later down the line (no pun intended  :biggrin:)

You wouldn't happen to know the part code for the rubber seal that goes on the fuel line end of the grommit (that you push into the tap?)  it's a bit prone to popping out without it i feel, or will a generic one from the shelf do the job?

tqmx1

They are called Sisser clips P/n 90467-12052-00

And for looking up P/Ns you can go here


http://www.mach1motorsports.com/


DaveA

Ok, so there's another problem in the saga.   The gear leaver wasn't biting onto the spline going into the gear box, so i thought i'd give the bolt a little tighten up, and then it snapped!   the bottom gap of the gear leaver is/was almost closed, but there was still so much movement on it, it just wasn't biting.

To make matters worse, i really can't find this as a spare part, and no matter how much it moves back and forth, left to right, it just won't come that last 3mil to actually slide off the spline, can't figure out what's going on, or what to do!  i can only assume that will be a MOT faliure until i can get it sorted :(  Any ideas?  does this happen to others, or is it just my usual luck? :)

threejagsteve

Quote from: DaveA on December 04, 2009, 03:35:25 PM
Ok, so there's another problem in the saga.   The gear leaver wasn't biting onto the spline going into the gear box, so i thought i'd give the bolt a little tighten up, and then it snapped!   the bottom gap of the gear leaver is/was almost closed, but there was still so much movement on it, it just wasn't biting.

To make matters worse, i really can't find this as a spare part, and no matter how much it moves back and forth, left to right, it just won't come that last 3mil to actually slide off the spline, can't figure out what's going on, or what to do!  i can only assume that will be a MOT faliure until i can get it sorted :(  Any ideas?  does this happen to others, or is it just my usual luck? :)

I've encountered the same problem. If the linkage end isn't quite on the splined shaft far enough, the bolt will tighten (and the bike will shift ok; I rode mine around for weeks before I noticed it ) but the linkage end will still flop around and be loose. You just have to push it farther on for it to tighten properly.
"If you wanna bark with the big dogs, you can't pee with the puppies!"

DaveA

So, time for an update!   Threw the trade plate on it to blow the cobwebs, and the rev counter seems to have sorted itself out!  Which is nice.  The gear linkage is holding fine at the moment and it seems to be running sweet as.  I've put a new choke cable on it, but....no matter where i put the choke it still won't idle from cold without a bit of throttle for 5 minutes, is there a way to tune the choke, or any advice on how to overcome this?   Apart from finding out that the front valve is split and leaking on the front tyre when i wen't to put air in it, all seems to be running well!

I've come from a GSXR-750 K1, this bike runs nicely, but it's not as torquey as i expected/heard compaired to the gsxr, is this just because bike's have come along quite a way in the 17 years between the two bikes?  as they seem pretty even on the torque level.   As a side note, front brakes....what front brakes! lol, feel like there made out of chocolate, but from what i've read round here that's quite common?  Rust still hasn't worn off the disks yet so hopefully they will harden up a little bit!