Quick K&N air filter question

[wirehairs]

Sorry - total newbie here.  Just bought a 93 FJ1200 with 26K on the clock for $1700.  I'll post a full story later, but right now, I'm just trying to get some maintenance up to date.  It was my plan to replace the stock air filter with a K&N YA-1184.  This filter would not require any change to my carb settings, would it?

Lastly, while I'm waiting for a shop manual to arrive in the mail, I'm having a bugger of a time removing the fairing (the headlight bulb is burned out).  I've seen postings that allude to a posting where this is well explained, but haven't located it yet.  If anyone has that bookmarked, please share.

Thanks, and looking forward to contributing to the group!

[ribbert]

Sorry - total newbie here.  Just bought a 93 FJ1200 with 26K on the clock for $1700.  I'll post a full story later, but right now, I'm just trying to get some maintenance up to date.  It was my plan to replace the stock air filter with a K&N YA-1184.  This filter would not require any change to my carb settings, would it?

Lastly, while I'm waiting for a shop manual to arrive in the mail, I'm having a bugger of a time removing the fairing (the headlight bulb is burned out).  I've seen postings that allude to a posting where this is well explained, but haven't located it yet.  If anyone has that bookmarked, please share.

Thanks, and looking forward to contributing to the group!

Well, firstly, the headlight bulb can be changed without removing the fairing. It is a 30 sec job when you know what you're doing. The trick is being familiar with the clip that holds it in as you can only feel it, not see it. If you are not familiar with this type of clip (the same as on many cars) I suggest you get a mirror and torch and have a look first so you can see what your fingers are feeling.

Secondly, if you are removing the fairing for some other reason, the manual describes and unnecessarily difficult method that also puts a lot of the mounting tabs at risk or you can simply undo the bolts shown below (on both sides) and remove the entire thing, with sub frame, in a very short time, plastic intact.



Noel

[FJ_Hooligan]

Hey Noel,
If I remove the entire subframe and fairing, how many connectors am I looking for to disconnect?  I would think the Boost Sensor vacuum hose would also need to be disconnected?  I've seen discussion that only US models may have the Boost Sensor.

Thanks

To the original poster:  Don't waste money on a K&N.  Either get a UNI replacement filter element or go with UNI pod filters from Randy.

[movenon]

On the headlight bulb.
Take the bolt out holding the horn, when it out of the way you can get your hand up to the rear of the headlight assy.. There is a spring loaded clip that you will have to get released then the bulb will come out.

Good advice was given on the K&N. They are pretty much worthless IMO.  If you can convert to UNI Dual POD's.  If you want to keep your stock air box there is also a UNI POD filter available for those also.  Fair better filtering..

Most of us elect to get rid of the stock air box and use http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=24.  The stock air box is a pain in the ass to deal with when you have to do maint. on your carbs.  You will also need a small filter on the end of you crankcase vent tube if you convert.

George

[movenon]

Here is a photo of what the rear of your headlight looks like without the rubber boot and electrical connector out of the way.  On the right side you push in on the clip and then push up. It is hinged and will swing out of the way. The H4 bulb will then about fall out.

Hope it helps 
George

[ribbert]

Hey Noel,
If I remove the entire subframe and fairing, how many connectors am I looking for to disconnect?  I would think the Boost Sensor vacuum hose would also need to be disconnected?  I've seen discussion that only US models may have the Boost Sensor.

Thanks

There's half a dozen or so but it doesn't matter because they are all different size and shape, you can't muck them up. No need to label, mark or identify them, just pull them apart.

Noel

[giantkiller]

+1 on KnN junk I've got a stock replacement knn and 2sets knn pods $10+ postage and they are all yours.

[movenon]

+1 on KnN junk I've got a stock replacement knn and 2sets knn pods $10+ postage and they are all yours.

I had one once, threw it in the trash. Figured it wasn't worth the postage and didn't want to stick anyone else with it.. Sometimes the best way to deal with a problem is to eliminate it... Recommend you save your money until you can go with the UNI PODS.
George

[FJ_Hooligan]

... Recommend you save your money until you can go with the UNI PODS.

When I bought a K&N replacement filter a bunch of years ago it was about $50.  They probably haven't gotten cheaper.  The pods are a much better deal performance-wise and price.

[racerrad8]

When I bought a K&N replacement filter a bunch of years ago it was about $50.  They probably haven't gotten cheaper. 

Nope...

FJ K&N Airbox Filter

Randy - RPM

[wirehairs]

Thanks for everyone's input.  Funny how this whole thing has turned into a production.  Ugh!  I just completely restored an XJ550 and rebuilt a motor on a Maxim 400, yet this fairing being difficult to me!!  Hopefully, my manual will arrive in the mail shortly. 

I see what Noel is saying about the 4 bolts.  I can get access to the one on the right by removing the inner panel.  But the cover on the left side has the choke knob and the reserve switch.  If you remove the small philips screw holding the knob on, will that side slip off?

It's pretty tight for me to access the headlight without taking the fairing off.  Besides, I've got a leaking cam cover gasket that I want to look at, and want to change the spark plugs.  To make things funnier, I wanted to remove the tank, but can't figure out where to unplug the fuel line without having the gas stream out.   

Lastly, I've discovered damage to the fairing screws and one of the major mounts on the left hand side where the panel was fixed with fiberglass, and then wired closed instead of fixing the mount.  Here's some pics.  There are some cracks to the fairing plastic I'll need to figure out the best way to fix.

[movenon]

Take the screw out and the knob will come off then you can remove the cover plate. The cover plate is held on by a plastic tab. Just remove it gently. Under the cover there is a screw that has to be removed before the side panel can be lifted off.  When you reassemble I would LockTight the small screw holding the choke knob on.

Gas tank.  Remove the 10mm bolts at the rear, unplug the wires, then lift the tank up as best you can at the rear and use a 9mm wrench to turn the white plastic shut off valve on the petcock. Then you can remove the line on the fuel pump. It helps with fuel leakage. 

Different ways to fix the fairing. You can plastic weld it on the back side or glue and plate it on the back side for additional strength with some scrap ABS plastic using ABS cement or a plastic epoxy.  I have had real good luck with the plastic epoxy that LockTight makes.  I buy mine from Lowe's.  WalMart also has some but it is not as good as the LockTight branded stuff IMO.

Check your local area for a plastic supplier. My local shop usually just gives me scraps of ABS they are about 1/8 - 3/16 inch's thick. As a note if you heat the plastic bits up you can bend or mold it to a contour on the back side of a part. With gloves press it in and hold it for min until it cools to the contour. Also as a backing material I have used some fiberglass matting and load it with the plastic rated epoxy. 

Hope some of this helps. 
George

[wirehairs]

Thanks for all the input.

I did finally get the fairing off yesterday.  Well, off enough that I could swap out the bulb and stick the fairing right back on.  I just got the manual yesterday (library loan) and it seems to only indicate that the connections for the side signals need to be unplugged; no mention of the speedometer cable, etc.  Oh well.  Since I only have a month or so of riding left, I'll leave the plastic fairing repairs to the winter.

I do have one last question for someone: I did shut off the petcock on the inside with an 8mm wrench, but it's not that obvious to me what position is off versus reserve versus on.  It was a little dark under that tank...  I didn't see an arrow or anything on that little piece of white plastic.  If anyone can point me towards a nice online picture to clear that up, that would be super.

[ribbert]

I do have one last question for someone: I did shut off the petcock on the inside with an 8mm wrench, but it's not that obvious to me what position is off versus reserve versus on.  It was a little dark under that tank...  I didn't see an arrow or anything on that little piece of white plastic.  If anyone can point me towards a nice online picture to clear that up, that would be super.

The tap only has two positions, on and off. Just think of it as a tap, anti clockwise opens it, clockwise shuts it, or was that............. Nah, stick with the tap.
It's only about a quarter of a turn from off to on so don't get too heavy handed with it, with a good fitting spanner you can feel when it hits the stop.
If it's not on, the bike won't run.
Noel

[wirehairs]

Thank you Noel!!

I'll post some pictures of my new bike tomorrow.