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Carb Leak/Do I need a starter?

Started by chefmatt, July 29, 2014, 10:37:29 PM

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chefmatt

Got two questions for the collective FJ Brain Trust....On my '89 carb #3 (inboard 3rd from left) is dripping fuel when bike is parked. This just started about a week ago. The previous owner, with whom I work, said this happened to him about a year ago, then stopped on it's own accord. It doesn't drip when running or at idle, and leak whether it's on center or side stand. Seems to me that it's more fuel than one (or four even) float bowl can hold. I mean there is a nice puddle on the ground directly under the sidestand in the morning, and still a steady drip.

Recent upgrades include Battery, RPM Oil cooler, spin off oil filter, UNI pod filters (I can't believe how big that damn airbox is), RPM fork rebuild kit, Pirelli Sport Demons, throttle and choke cables, Corbin seat....Love this bike.

Rebuilt the forks Saturday, got that damper rod alignned properly with the use of a bore scope - could see what I was doing, it was a snap.

Think I'm going to need a new starter very soon - even with a new battery, just recently it started to 'hang' after one turn...what I mean is that I'll hit the stater button, it will crank for 1/2 second then stop. I can release the clutch, and while in first gear push the bike forward a few inches. Pull in the clutch, hit stater button and she'll fire right up...seems like a starter issue...?

Any thoughts from you guys a huge help!

FJmonkey

The carb leak is likely a needle seat or crap holing it open. You can drain the offending carb, the refilling will clean the crap out of the seat. Try cracking the throttle open about 1/8 when starting hot, it helps. Or get an RPM 4 brush starter.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

chefmatt

Thanks for the quick response. I was looking for the 4 brush starter on Randy's site, couldn't find it....will likely invest in that tho...I see starters on ebay and don't know about the reliability or fitment. Have had issues with ebay parts supposed to fit my Fj and don't - adjustable levers, cables....it can be iffy. Starter replacement looks fairly straight forward, should the starter selenoid be a part of that job?

chefmatt

Oh as a side note - the stater issue only occurs when the motor is cold. Fires right up when hot..

FJmonkey

Quote from: chefmatt on July 29, 2014, 11:05:01 PM
Thanks for the quick response. I was looking for the 4 brush starter on Randy's site, couldn't find it....will likely invest in that tho...I see starters on ebay and don't know about the reliability or fitment. Have had issues with ebay parts supposed to fit my Fj and don't - adjustable levers, cables....it can be iffy. Starter replacement looks fairly straight forward, should the starter selenoid be a part of that job?
No need to change the solenoid, it is just a type of switch, On/Off kind of thing... Call RPM, they can get you a new starter...
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

FJmonkey

The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

chefmatt

Hmmmm good thought! I'm running Valvoline 20w50, 2nd oil change on same oil, didn't occur after first change, but actually started a couple days after my second. I DID add lucas oil stabilizer to this one. Maybe I will drain it and add straight 20w50 no stabilizer.....

red

Quote from: chefmatt on July 29, 2014, 10:37:29 PMGot two questions for the collective FJ Brain Trust....On my '89 carb #3 (inboard 3rd from left) is dripping fuel when bike is parked.
Think I'm going to need a new starter very soon - even with a new battery, just recently it started to 'hang' after one turn...what I mean is that I'll hit the stater button, it will crank for 1/2 second then stop. I can release the clutch, and while in first gear push the bike forward a few inches. Pull in the clutch, hit stater button and she'll fire right up...seems like a starter issue...?
Any thoughts from you guys a huge help!
Chefmatt,

Your fuel pump should stop the flow of fuel, with the key off.  That is not happening.  The carbs (needle-and-seat) should do that also.  With the bike outdoors, disconnect the fuel line to the carbs and open the gas cap.  Turn on the key, and let the fuel pump put maybe a gallon of gas into a gas can.  Hopefully, whatever crud that kept the fuel pump from sealing when turned off will get blown out by the pump.  If the fuel stops dripping from the fuel line with the key turned off, then you just fixed your fuel pump.  Repeat as needed, but if the leak persists, there are aftermarket pumps from Randy at RPM that are cheaper than the OEM pump.  A tank of gas with Seafoam might be all you need to clean the fuel pump and the carbs, which would be next on the list.  There is good help here, if you are game for a teardown/rebuild of the carbs.  Randy has the new carb screws that you will want, in a kit.

You might have a starter issue, or a starter chain issue.  The starter can be rebuilt, or there is a four-brush replacement unit available.  Others here can tell you more about your starter problem.

Cheers,
Red
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

FJmonkey

Ummm, the oil thickness was a joke...  :crazy: It will not have that much affect... Keep solving the problem.... The answer is out there...
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

racerrad8

Quote from: FJmonkey on July 29, 2014, 11:31:09 PM
the oil thickness was a joke...  :crazy:

Actually Monkey, you might be onto something...

Matt, why did you add oil stabilizer to the 20W-50?

Yamaha had a problem with the original starter one-way drive, which uses three rollers and some lightweight, ball point type, springs. The oil, if too thick will actually lift the rollers and the engine will stop cranking.

When the engine stops cranking can you hear the start motor still spinning?

Yamaha corrected this problem by changing over to a sprag design starter one-way drive on the XJR1200 & XJR1300.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Pat Conlon

Even a blind monkey finds an occasional banana.....(or something like that..) :good:
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Harvy

Quote from: FJmonkey on July 29, 2014, 11:31:09 PM
Ummm, the oil thickness was a joke...  :crazy: It will not have that much affect... Keep solving the problem.... The answer is out there...

I recall some years ago that Pete from Ningi here in Qld had a similar issue with his starter being sluggish when cold until he changed from 20/50 to 10/40 oil.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

FJmonkey

Interesting, once in a while when I crank the starter it will catch then spin free. Never when hot. Is this the same problem? 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

racerrad8

Quote from: FJmonkey on July 31, 2014, 12:01:34 AM
Interesting, once in a while when I crank the starter it will catch then spin free. Never when hot. Is this the same problem? 

Probably

Randy -RPM
Randy - RPM

FJmonkey

The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side