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Tips and tricks for removing an FJ engine

Started by waricle, November 13, 2009, 05:06:19 PM

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waricle

I have to do a full engine removal.
Is there some info available and can anyone please post tricks & pitfalls clues and tips.
Please.
I've often been asked, 'What do you old folks do now that you're retired'?

"Well. I'm fortunate to have a chemical engineering background, and one of the things I enjoy most is turning beer, wine, Scotch, and margaritas into urine."

SlowOldGuy

I removed the engine from my '85 using a small floor jack.

I built a small wooden platform to hold the engien while it was out of the frame.  I was only doing top-end work, so I used the motor mount bosses to hold it in place.

Installation was a bit trickier.  I took the opposite approach to removal.  Leaving the motor bolted to it's holding bench on the floor, I used 4 tie-downs and an engine crane/hoist to raise the bike and position it over the motor then slowly lowered it onto the motor as I maneuvered it into place.

DavidR.

fj1289

I've taken to removing the top end while still in the frame.  Trying to drop the entire motor usually has me fighting to get the head to clear where the main frame "pinches" together (where the lower frame rails bolt on). 

To get the head and clylinder off in the frame I have to move the stock clutch line out of the way (undo it from the two mounts on the frame) and remove the inner fairing panels. 

I also prefer to dial in the cams with the motor in the frame since my dial indicator stand has a magnetic base and stays put well on the frame.

My second choice is to lift the frame from the motor - but you've got to take a lot more parts off the frame to do that easily

Other tips - remove the the ignition rotor bolt, countershaft nut, and the clutch basket nut before you take the chain off.  That way you can use the rear brake or broom stick across the swing arm to remove those without an impact wrench or special tools. 

The motor is a heavy lump - take as much off it as you can before you start wrestling it around!

Have fun!
Chris

waricle

Thanks guys,

Is there a step by step instruction anywhere?
Or do you just take bits off until it falls out?
I've often been asked, 'What do you old folks do now that you're retired'?

"Well. I'm fortunate to have a chemical engineering background, and one of the things I enjoy most is turning beer, wine, Scotch, and margaritas into urine."

SlowOldGuy

All the electronics unplug readily.  You have to remove the ground strap and the positive lead going to the starter, but the alternator has a plug along with the neutral switch, oil level sensor, and ignition pickup.

Remove the chain, clutch slave cylinder and carbs.

You can unbolt the lower frame members and front mounts and the engine will hang from the rear upper and lower mounts.  Use a jack to support the motor while you undo the last 2 mounts then everything should come crashing to the floor.  :-)

I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

DavidR.

SlowOldGuy

Quote from: fj1289 on November 13, 2009, 08:38:39 PM
I also prefer to dial in the cams with the motor in the frame since my dial indicator stand has a magnetic base and stays put well on the frame.
Chris

I use 2 thick straps of flat iron with holes in it to mount my dial indicators.  I use a bolt to attach these mounts to the cam caps, using the valve cover bolt holes, then stick the magnetic indicators to the iron straps.  I use 2 indicators; one to monitor TDC on the piston and another to follow the valve.

Just curious, what kind of dial indicator tip do you use as a valve follower?  

DavidR.

Harvy

Quote from: waricle on November 13, 2009, 09:59:38 PM
Thanks guys,

Is there a step by step instruction anywhere?
Or do you just take bits off until it falls out?

Pete, I'll bring my manual down with me.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

waricle

I've often been asked, 'What do you old folks do now that you're retired'?

"Well. I'm fortunate to have a chemical engineering background, and one of the things I enjoy most is turning beer, wine, Scotch, and margaritas into urine."

fj1289

David,

I'll have to give that a try.  I use the old TDC stop and degree wheel to determine piston position.  I've been using the "standard" tip on the dial indicator - VERY FUSSY at what angle you set it up at in order to get it to read the bucket postion reliably and repeatable.  Even then, I can only get the top .20" or so of travel - enought to check opening and closing points (at .04 or .05), but that's about it. 

Chris

SlowOldGuy

For about $10 (maybe) you can get a set of about 20 different indicator tips.  It includes one that has a 45 degree bend that makes following the bucket a little easier.

www.powerhouseproducts.com

DavidR.

fj1289

Thanks a freakin' lot!  I'm going to lose at least two hours on this website!  (I think the tool bug is a common side effect of the mod bug)


threejagsteve

Quote from: fj1289 on November 21, 2009, 01:09:02 AM

Thanks a freakin' lot!  I'm going to lose at least two hours on this website!  (I think the tool bug is a common side effect of the mod bug)


You can never have too many tools.
"If you wanna bark with the big dogs, you can't pee with the puppies!"