Engine prepping tips before starting after many years of down time?

[JoBrCo]

I was wondering if any of you had tips for prepping an engine after 19 years of down time.  It ran great before allowing it to sit, other than the float needle seat o-rings being worn, allowing fuel to overflow.  I've got new float needle seat o-rings, and a new petcock. Going to remove the rust from tank with Rusteco, will also replace all rubber lines soon.  A few years ago I put about 2 tablespoons of Mystery Oil in each cylinder, and cranked it over by hand with a ratchet, it was smooth and easy. I'm replacing the battery, oil and oil filter of course and will clean and oil my stock air filter "K&N" replacement filter.  Though I'll probably replace the airbox and K&N with the small pod filters in the near future.  I'm also currently cleaning out all the carbs.

For about 8 years it was stored under a 2' deep house soffit with a MC cover & blue plastic tarp.  So it was not directly exposed to rain, but is was to atmospheric moisture, dew & humidity (very humid here).

Somewhere I read that it would be a good idea to remove the plugs and valve cover, and crank it a few seconds to ensure oil got to the camshafts/valves; oil pump working/no substantial clogs.

Could crud have built up in the oil cooler, due to no flow?

What tips do you have to ensure that she doesn't break, upon initial attempt to start, a sort of insurance policy against catastrophic failure?

P.S. What do any of you think about the Colortune product?

[Arnie]

I'd say you have it pretty much covered.
Clean oil and filter, clean carbs and replace O-rings, clean air filter.
You might want to put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder through the plug hole and crank it over by hand a couple of revs.
Fresh fuel
Pull the choke out fully and....
Push the starter button.

I wouldn't bother removing the valve cover unless you're going to check and set the valves.

You'll probably have to replace the valve cover gasket and the grommets, but not just to start it.

Good luck,

[yamaha fj rider]

I remember years ago if we had an engine that had not been run for a long time or there was concern that the rings might be stuck. Putting a little ATF down in the cylinders and letting it sit for a few days really helped. ATF seemed to brake down carbon around the rings. Hope this helps.

Kurt

[JoBrCo]

Thanks for the food for thought guys, it really is helpful.

I guess you can tell that I'm a little stressed about bringing her back to life, it's just that I really can't afford any screw-ups, it's a budget issue.  Also we really need backup transportation, as our Honda (car) has got quite a few miles on it. And between my broken down P/U F-150, and the bike, well I definitely get better gas mileage with the bike, of course you're also exposed to the elements.  OK let's face it, the bike is a lot more fun! 

[Tony Mac]

  A few years ago I put about 2 tablespoons of Mystery Oil in each cylinder, and cranked it over by hand with a ratchet, it was smooth and easy.

G'day,
I simply pulled the plugs out of my '80 GSX 750 (Project Shirley) , cranked it over a few times to make sure all things that should move did, filled the float bowls with fuel, replaced the plugs and started it up ... After 11 years in storage. Wow what a sound. And it went straight to idle when I let go of the throttle.

"Mystery Oil" ?
This is not ther first time I've seen this product mentioned. I was looking for an Australian outlet. I understand it removes surface rust like nothing else.
Be Good.
Macca

[JoBrCo]

Yes Tony, that's one of my main concerns, corrosion, especially uneven corrosion, I'm talking amongst the cylinders.  Inevitably, any particular combination of valves were probably open during the time it was outdoors under that soffit and tarp, exposed to the elements.  So now there's potential at having corrosion in one cylinder around a particular set of intake valves, and in another cylinder around a particular set of exhaust valves, such that some cylinders may now be stronger or weaker than others, in various ways. I saw a marine applied V8 come apart in this way.  Of course upon removing the head, one cylinder looked as though it had actually had water poured into it, that actually stayed there, not seeping past the rings, for an extended amount of time. The operator of the boat was wondering why the engine seemed sluggish, Yeah I know, they sucked at maintenance.  They felt they had to immediately entertain at that moment of unexpected guests arriving, even though the boat had sat for some time.  If it hadn't been a big block Chevy engine, we probably wouldn't have made it out onto the river.  Needless to say we were towed back to the dock.     The ultimate shame for it's owner.

In addition, I live in an area of a decent amount of rainfall giving rise to many forms of life. True story, I have actually found tiny rodent nests in the air filter box's of two different auto's.  These animals actually climbed up my tires, suspension, etc, finding the opening for the air box, climbed in and made nests, and I'm not so sure that I didn't actually start it up and drive around with the nests in place.  Thank god they didn't eat through the paper filter, they actually used stuff they brought in for nest building.  There were actual small nuts, and seeds in the air box.

Now I don't know of any mammals that could fit through a valve opening, getting trapped in the cylinder and dieing, but insects are quite another story.  I found several spider silk nurseries, (then empty), in carburetors and other such parts that were sitting on a shelf, that clogged up ports, etc., and I don't know what insect exoskeletons would/could do to a cylinder/valves, but I don't necessarily want to find out the hard way.  Of course I really don't want to crack the head to visually inspect it either, and I own no borescope; cost prohibitive. Even if I could rent one, I could only check the pistons as I know of no borescope that has a remotely articulated probe, so as to inspect all four valves via the plug orifice.

Yeah I know I shouldn't have ever let it sit like that simply due to the need of a set of o-rings and possibly needle valves, but I easily got sidetracked with the dramas of the day, rearing a child on a tight budget.  The joke is that now at this age, half-heimer's seems to be setting in. 

Oh, and thanks for your help; see what I mean? 

[JoBrCo]

Sorry wrong thread!

[Arnie]

Ok, you're worried about UN-equal corrosion in the cylinders.

So?  If it starts and runs then it works and will gradually become more evenly worn over time.
But, like that small block chevy... This is an FJ 1200 and even running at 1/3 to 1/2 its original output, it will still outrun 90% plus of all the other vehicles on the road.  Without doubt, you'll have "enough" power to be as safe as you are on any bike.

If it doesn't start, or runs too poorly for your taste, then start worrying about what you're willing, and able, and can afford to do to fix it.

Waiting another week or month or year is only going to make however bad it is, worse.  So, go change oil, filters, fuel, and spark plugs (and jump the battery from your car) then try to start it.  Tell us how it goes.

[ribbert]

Ok, you're worried about UN-equal corrosion in the cylinders.

So?  If it starts and runs then it works and will gradually become more evenly worn over time.
But, like that small block chevy... This is an FJ 1200 and even running at 1/3 to 1/2 its original output, it will still outrun 90% plus of all the other vehicles on the road.  Without doubt, you'll have "enough" power to be as safe as you are on any bike.

If it doesn't start, or runs too poorly for your taste, then start worrying about what you're willing, and able, and can afford to do to fix it.

Waiting another week or month or year is only going to make however bad it is, worse.  So, go change oil, filters, fuel, and spark plugs (and jump the battery from your car) then try to start it.  Tell us how it goes.

My current engine was sitting outside with a tarp over it that had blown off when I bought it. 2 cylinders had water in them and a few valves stems had bubbling rust and were stuck open. When I tipped it over, orange water ran out of the inlet ports and I could see rust on the cylinder wall. I chipped the bulk of the rust off the valve stem with a screw driver, sprayed all sorts of stuff in there and nudged it repeatedly with the piston until it no long hit and would turn a couple of full revolutions by hand.
I didn't have great expectations for it but when I fired it up it only took half a minute or so to kick in on all 4 cylinders. 20,000 kms later it burns no oil, runs like a swiss watch and while I have never bothered with a compression test, the all sound even to the ear, which is good enough for me.
The engine was only intended as a stop gap but it runs so well and so hard I can't be bothered changing it over for the original. If it keeps going like it is I probably never will (I do not like working on my bike)

My loose test for how well the bike's running is if it will float the front wheel from 6000rpm in second on 18/41 gearing, and this motor does.

Noel

[JoBrCo]

Thanks Noel, for the, "This is how tough the FJ engine really is," story, as it has calmed my nerves a bit, as I know my engine is nowhere near that bad.

Obviously, I have never treated a vehicle this bad before, or I wouldn't be so nervous. Questions are all about experience, which are in fact unique with every individual, they're arbitrary, unable to be accounted for.

Thanks to all those that have shared their experiences, as this is what I'm looking for, meters so as to compare my particular situation.

I'll let you guys know how it goes, when it goes, even if it's south.

Thanks again, and have a good one!


JoBrCo

[Flynt]

So, go change oil, filters, fuel, and spark plugs (and jump the battery from your car) then try to start it.

Not over thinking this too much I hope, but I'd pull the valve cover and spark plugs and then spin it with the starter until oil is pumping to the top of the engine.  You've done the best thing you can for the cylinders at this point, but getting oil to the journal bearings using the slow spin of the starter will make them much happier when she fires up.

Frank

[Pat Conlon]

Key for me would be, along with a cylinder presoak, turn the crank gently with a socket (on the timing rotor nut) so if you do have a frozen ring(s) you won't snap them by using the starter motor.

[yamaha fj rider]

Do you think that one could turn the engine fast enough with a wrench, to prime the oil system? I am not taking about bringing it up pressure just refilling all the passages and oil filter. When rebuilding car engines, I like to prime the oil system with a drill. This would be with the valve cover off and plugs removed. Thoughts, is this possible?

Kurt 

[Pat Conlon]

Remember the direction of the rotation of the engine as it relates to the (left side) ignition rotor bolt.
You could try it....until you end up loosening the bolt when you spin it counterclockwise.

[Flynt]

turn the crank gently with a socket...

He did this already I thought...  with the Mystery Oil in there.  If not, absolutely turn by hand  a half dozen times or so.

Frank