Polishing Alloy and Stainless steel...

[waricle]

I decided to post this as I know that some people find polishing alloy & stainless a hassle.

My years as a stainless and alloy fabricator may be of help.

Mechanical polishing is the ONLY way to go.

Start with as coarse as necessary abrasive to remove the worst or bulk of material.

For a rough cast or heavily painted surface I usually use a "Flap wheel" of about 80 or  120 grit.

For cleaner alloy I start with compounds.- I'll explain.

From then on it is simply a question of using a series of successively finer grits or compounds to remove the grain of the previous process until you have the desired finish.

For example- a wheel rim.

Start with a 120 grit flap wheel of about 2"  to 4" diameter and 3/4" or 1" wide with a 1/4" shaft  (3M PG type 83) or similar on a fast powerful electric drill- the trick is to keep it moving as not to gouge the rim.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=NL4THHSX60be060CVBK1Q8gl

Once you have removed 95% of the paint( it doesn't have to be perfect as the next process will remove the rest) use a Sisal Mop of about 6" dia and 1" wide with a "MEDIUM GREASY" (grey) compound abtasive-

http://www.toolbank.com/p/C3396/ZENPFPK5

it is the abrasive compound that does the work, the wheel just carries it for you.

You will have to make or buy a spindle for your drill. a 3/8" or 1/2"dia x 3" bolt with the head cut off and a couple of nuts & washers will do the job.

Apply the compound while the wheel is spinning and "load" the wheel with the compound.

Use a firm pressure the sisal mop & medium greasy will remove the rest of the paint and the grain fairly quickly.

Apply more grease as necessary it will be messy.

When you are done with this stage clean the excess off the rim with turps. turps works best.

This will leave a reflective satin (which is the stage I used to finish the forks.)

The next process uses a Stitched Cloth Mop or a Loose Cloth Mop and "HARD WHITE" compound.

Apply the compound as before and remove the sisal grain with the hard white. Use plenty of compound.

If there is still grain from the flap wheel it will show up now and you will have to repeat the sisal/medium greasy process.

Clean the excess using turps.

you can use any of the alloy polishing creams or pastes to maintain the finish.

All these mops, compounds and abrasives are available at larger hardware outlets and also at engineering supplies.

Take yourself down to your local stainless or alloy fabricators and see what system they use.

There are many types of abrasives 3M  have a series of abrasive wheels made from a "Scouring pad" type materials

3M Scotch-Brite t.m. wheels have a series of grades ( by colour)from BLACK coarsest , GREY mid coarse, RED medium and GREEN fine.

These can get a bit expensive compared to the old fashioned mops.

Different ones come out all the time.

Flap (hollow core type)wheels and mops can also be fitted to a motorised bench mounted spindle ( or a bench grinder) for smaller stuff.

The first side of the rim should take 3-4 hours and by the time you get the hand of it it should take an hour a side from go to whoa

Check the pic in the gallery "making progress"

I have now finished the fin edges to a mirror finish on the engine.

PM me for more info if you want.

[Pat Conlon]

Outstanding post!  Well done. Thx.

Marsh & Co. can we save this in our files for future reference?

[threejagsteve]

Nice writeup, waricle!

I've copied it into my 'Tips & Tricks' folder.

Cheers! 

[andyb]

The man knows how to make things shiny.  This is the pic referred to in the original post.

The next question that will be asked will be "how often do you have to keep cleaning/repolishing the bloody things?!"

That's the part I'm waiting for.  Now that I own a bike with a polished arm, frame, and wheels... the upkeep is a bit ridiculous for a daily driver. 

[waricle]

There's some pretty good Alloy Truckwash products that will help protect the finish, Alloy wheel polish etc.
It also helps if you are retired.........

[andyoutandabout]

What do you think of this idea. Pat gave me the scoop on swingarm anodizing removal - stating it's a right, royal pain. I read on a site somewhere that common oven cleaner ('easy off' - $5 a can, was given as an example) gets rid of anodized finishes with minimal effort.
Anyone tried this approach??

[threejagsteve]

What do you think of this idea. Pat gave me the scoop on swingarm anodizing removal - stating it's a right, royal pain. I read on a site somewhere that common oven cleaner ('easy off' - $5 a can, was given as an example) gets rid of anodized finishes with minimal effort.
Anyone tried this approach??

Oven cleaner does eat aluminum.  Works great on valves though.

I believe oven cleaner does a good job eating aluminum also, I would avoid that.

[Pat Conlon]

Andy, oven cleaner does eat (corrode) raw aluminum but unfortunately not on the swing arm anodizing, I tried it on a test patch on a old unused swing arm and it does not help. You could also try it yourself on a small spot.
Mechanical abrasion is the only way to cut through the layer of anodizing, it's amazingly hard shit.
Be very, very careful with the flapper wheel. A light touch with low/moderate speed and I recommend 200 grit, Waricle's suggestion of 120 grit flapper is IMHO a tad course. Very easy to cut too deep.
Wear a real filter mask and eye protection.  Pat

What do you think of this idea. Pat gave me the scoop on swingarm anodizing removal - stating it's a right, royal pain. I read on a site somewhere that common oven cleaner ('easy off' - $5 a can, was given as an example) gets rid of anodized finishes with minimal effort.
Anyone tried this approach??

[racerman_27410]

for cutting the anodizing off the swingarm i suggest a high speed drill motor (hi torque plug in, not battery powered).... a cotton polishing wheel with red stick polishing rouge.....be prepared for the mess it makes

once you get thru that hard ass layer switch to white polishing rouge for that shine you seek! 


Kookaloo!

[Harvy]

for cutting the anodizing off the swingarm i suggest a high speed drill motor (hi torque plug in, not battery powered).... a cotton polishing wheel with red stick polishing rouge.....be prepared for the mess it makes

once you get thru that hard ass layer switch to white polishing rouge for that shine you seek! 


Kookaloo!

I'm not sure, but I think white polishing rouge is Cerium Oxide.........as far as I can find, its the finest cutting material available. Its used by glass cutting and polishing places when they do etching for shower screens etc. I have used it to remover scratches from windscreens on cars and it does an excellent job on alloy. If you are lucky you may just find your local glass replacement dudes will give you some, as they usually buy it in bulk powder form. Just mix a little with of the powdered cerium oxide with water to form a moist paste and then using a cloth buffing wheel as Frank has suggested........be liberal with it....I sure you will find it will do a great job of polishing.

Harvy

[racerman_27410]

this is a sweet kit with everything (cept the drill motor) AND the price is right  



http://cgi.ebay.com/Polishing-Buffing-Kit-w-red-white-rouge-polish-compound_W0QQitemZ110446464199QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b71f4cc7


i got it backwards in my first reply... the white cuts the anodizing and the red provides the mirror finish

as was said before load the polishing wheel with it turning and let the rouge do the work... be prepared for the mess that will get slung off.

Kookaloo!

[waricle]

I didn't bother polishing the swing arm- left it "au naturel"
I don't bother with the red or green compounds, just coarse grey & fine white.
Try them all as some may be better than others for specific applications.
I seem to recall Amway doing a good alloy polishing cream as well- or was it stainless?

Did the seabreeze kick in on the way home Harvey? Was warm today....

[Harvy]

No Pete.......not a breath of wind.......and its not looking much better for tomorrow either.

I'm swapping back to my quiet pipe.......its just too noisy!

Good to meet you and Helen.

Thankyou for the quick fabrication job too mate.

I've dug out that lh handle bar and am going down to Brisbane either Friday afternoon/evening or Saturday morning.......I'll drop it off then......If your not home I'll leave it at the front door.

Cheers
Harvy

[jvb_ca]

this is a sweet kit with everything (cept the drill motor) AND the price is right  



http://cgi.ebay.com/Polishing-Buffing-Kit-w-red-white-rouge-polish-compound_W0QQitemZ110446464199QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b71f4cc7


i got it backwards in my first reply... the white cuts the anodizing and the red provides the mirror finish

as was said before load the polishing wheel with it turning and let the rouge do the work... be prepared for the mess that will get slung off.

Kookaloo!

Picked up this kit this summer from Princess Auto for about 10 bucks. Highly recommended. Just finished polishing the edge of the FZR wheel that is now ready for powder coating. Works great. Now i'm gonna find lots of other things to polish. Oh and I finished the final buff/pollish with Autosol.

Cheers...Jake

[Pat Conlon]

aaaaah, the madness begins.....

"....Now i'm gonna find lots of other things to polish...."
Cheers...Jake