starting issues

[josh_smith91]

Just took the tank off to paint it recently. Hooked it back up today and all it does is turn over. So I took the tank back off let it sit for a while then with the tank off still I hit the start button and it fired right up then died after it ra outn what fuel was in the lines. Hooked to tank back up again and same thing gets fuel and spark just will not fire. Could it some how be getting too much fuel. Also before I took the tank off it started right up every time

[theLeopard]

try opening the petcock on your tank.
if that doesn't work, verify all your hoses are properly connected.

if that doesn't work, post again.

[Pat Conlon]

Josh, see what the leopard did on his signature line? How he put in his FJ model info?
This saves him time...he doesn't have to keep reminding us...so

Go to the Profile button at the top of the page and put your bike info in your signature line.

Help us help you.  We can respond more accurately when we know which FJ creature you are talking about.

For example: My first response would be....check your fuel pump, but maybe you don't have one..

[josh_smith91]

hey pat i tried your safety wire idea on the elbow on the petcock but it is still leaking. when i got the bike and took the tank off the elbow fell right out. now when i looked at it i noticed there is a groove cut in it, is there suppose to be an o-ring on there because otherwise its just metal sliding into metal so how would it seal.

[FJ_Hooligan]

... the elbow fell right out. now when i looked at it i noticed there is a groove cut in it, is there suppose to be an o-ring on there because otherwise its just metal sliding into metal so how would it seal.

Badly!  Unless you use some fuel resistant sealer or glue when you put it back together.

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Josh, yes, as Hooligan said....you need some sealant on the male end of the elbow, there is no o ring it is just metal to metal press fit. I used some JB Weld which worked until I bought a new petcock from RPM.
When using the sealant, be careful to point the elbow in the right direction before the sealant sets up.

Re: Safety wire: I can understand the elbow dripping, due to no sealant,  but no way in hell should it just "fall right out" if you safety wired it correctly.

Did you overlap the wire and tie it tight?

These vacuum operated  petcocks are becoming trouble for us...shutting off gas to the engine at the most in opportune time. Rather than continue to dick around with a 30 year old part that lived its life in the hottest environment on the bike.... Time to call it a day and just buy a new oem petcock.
30 year life span is not so bad...

Your petcock has a lever with 2 settings 'on' and 'P' for prime....normally leave in the 'on' position, vacuum opens and lack of vacuum closes the petcock. If you think something is wrong with the petcock and you are not getting gas...turn the lever to the 'P' prime position...gas should flow.

Lastly,  pay close attention to the route of your fuel line...if you do not follow this correctly you *will* pinch your fuel line, usually after the engine heats up and the line gets soft....about 20 miles from your garage..
The single line leaving the petcock should run *under* the 2 branch lines that go to the carbs.

Thanks for fixing your sig. Line....it helps....Pat

[josh_smith91]

OK gotcha and as for it falling off it fell off before i safety wired it. and u said there is no o ring, if i got a thin one do you think it would fit? also i just went out and tinkered with it some more and well i think its leaking from what looks like an overfill hole on the back side of the petcock. i held the tank up put a long tube on the vacuum nipple and sucked fuel came out i stopped and it stopped. well i did it one more time and when i stopped the fuel didn't, i replaced the o ring that goes on the diaphragm so that should be good, the only thing i can think of is maybe the spring is too weak. well i continued to suck to simulate the bike running and i put my finger over the elbow and fuel started pouring out of the back side of the petcock. so what im thinking is the diaphragm isnt closing and letting fuel fill up the carbs and then pouring out of the overfill hole. also i can get the bike to start now but when i get go to hit the throttle even the slightest it dies also the idle will not change, ive turned the idle screw all the way in and out and idle stays at like 500rpm. this bike is freaking pissing me off to no end!!!!!!

[Pat Conlon]

Throw the mother fucker away before it burns down your bike and/or bike and house.
Buy a new one and call it a day.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=Fuel

Are you sure it's the idle screw you're turning? Where is it located?

[josh_smith91]

im pretty sure it is,the screw im turning is located between the carbs and the engine right in the middle

[Pat Conlon]

On the top? Where the throttle cables are?

[josh_smith91]

no its on the underside of the where the throttle cables are. ill go take a picture real quick and upload it

[josh_smith91]

heres the pic

[Pat Conlon]

Ok, good answer.  

You would be surprised with the number of folks who mistake the carb sync screws with the idle adjuster.

Sounds like it's time to clean your carbs....see that link I posted? Scroll down and you will see a $22 ss screw and o ring kit for your carbs...buy that when you buy the petcock.

Read the Files on carb cleaning, clean your carbs, install that kit...then get the bike running, set the idle to 1,000 rpm and then synchronize your carbs..

New petcock with fresh o rings on clean carbs with a minor tweak in fine tuning, you will be golden.

You may want to consider changing your pilot jets from the stock 37.5 to 40.0 while your doing this...just a option.

[josh_smith91]

thanks for all the help. well looks like ill be down for quite a while longer. well when i get around to it ill start tearing into the carbs. also what causes the idle to not change when the screw is turned. also the carb sync screw heads are not sitting in the same spot you think the carbs are out of sync as well?

[Pat Conlon]

No way of telling Josh until you put a sync gauge on the vacuum ports. You have to get the bike running first so carbs/petcock are #1 on your list.

A proper carb sync makes an amazing difference on our bikes.

How's the compression?
While the bike is down, do you know when the last time the valves were adjusted?

Remember Valves 101: A tight valve on a cold engine is a open valve on a hot engine.