Re: Clutch question

[Temblor]

Novice question sorry. I just want to replace Clutch Spring with FJR1300 spring to see if that cures slipping clutch on 90 FJ1200 with 25K miles.

Question #1: Is the clutch spring the #3 part  in removal? (If so, Wow that is easy!) 
Question #2:   do i need to remove 2nd Long pushrod? If I want to inspect all the friction discs for warping and thickness? (Using Clymer book)
Question #3 If I do, how do I remove it? The magnet I used to remove bearing is not working.
(I attached Magnet to short pushrod and reinserted to remove bearing)
Final Question any links in the States for cheapest FJR1300 spring and Cover  gasket ?
Thank you in advance

[Pat Conlon]

Hey new guy....I moved your post out of the Files Section over to here.
Please do not post questions, any questions, in the Files Section.

[racerrad8]

Novice question sorry.

Question #1: Is the clutch spring the #3 part  in removal? (If so, Wow that is easy!)  No, #13
Question #2:   do i need to remove 2nd Long pushrod? If I want to inspect all the friction discs for warping and thickness? (Using Clymer book) No, you need to remove the clutch frictions & steels. You need to remove #8 and discard, as well as #4 & 5. If you read down in the clutch files section you will see why.

Final Question any links in the States for cheapest FJR1300 spring and Cover  gasket ?

Clutch Spring
Clutch Cover Gasket

Randy - RPM

[movenon]

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

[Temblor]

Novice question sorry.

Question #1: Is the clutch spring the #3 part  in removal? (If so, Wow that is easy!)  No, #13
Question #2:   do i need to remove 2nd Long pushrod? If I want to inspect all the friction discs for warping and thickness? (Using Clymer book) No, you need to remove the clutch frictions & steels. You need to remove #8 and discard, as well as #4 & 5. If you read down in the clutch files section you will see why.

Final Question any links in the States for cheapest FJR1300 spring and Cover  gasket ?

Clutch Spring
Clutch Cover Gasket

Randy - RPM

Hi thanks for replies,
So if I discard #4, #5 & #8
and add (1) wide full sized fiber clutch plate<< That is it? (Do you have link for this clutch plate I need?)
I do not need to remove long pushrod to accomplish this? 
Thanks

[FJmonkey]

The long push rod is not removed to replace the steels or frictions. Here is where I purchased the replacement steels and frictions for my clutch http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AWCD&cat=39

[Temblor]

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

Thanks For all the help. My Fiber clutch discs (with 25K) are 2.96 - 3.05 in thickness.
I am ready to remove #4 (Spring seat) #5 (Spring) #6 (Narrow Disc) #8 (Large Wire Ring)
And remove #3 (Clutch Spring)  replace it with Wide clutch disc and FJR1300 Clutch Spring.
So I will end up with 7 Wide with only 1 narrow.   
I am not going to double up clutch spring because I do not want to modify master cylinder at this time.
I might keep the original spring however and add later if necessary.
All good?
Hope this cures my clutch slippage.

[Temblor]

I removed the small pushrod and bearing (Did not need to, I know)
Now I go to reinstall and I can not remember if it was sticking out about 1/2" when I removed it? Is it supposed to stick out ? (Meaning not flush with Clutch nut) 
In the Clymer book it looks flush to the Clutch nut!
So here are my two pictures;
The 1st pic shows during 1st disassembly and I have Pressure plate in my hand.
The2nd pic shows reassembly. (I think I see the silver inner part of the Clutch nut which means it was sticking out when I 1st dis assembled.
So all would be good?)
3rd photo is Clymers photo on page 165 figure #13 (if you have the book) shows the Short push rod flush with bolt and you can not see inner silver part of nut! It looks flush!
Hard to tell? 
Side note* My Clutch cover now fits on properly with no gap. The Clymers book says if there is gap of 0.24 in there is a problem,
but if 0.04 in gap (very slight) there is no problem

Help!
[

[theLeopard]

I wish the pictures in my manual were that detailed.
I think Yamaha ran out of ink when they printed mine.

[ribbert]

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

Thanks For all the help. My Fiber clutch discs (with 25K) are 2.96 - 3.05 in thickness.
I am ready to remove #4 (Spring seat) #5 (Spring) #6 (Narrow Disc) #8 (Large Wire Ring)
And remove #3 (Clutch Spring)  replace it with Wide clutch disc and FJR1300 Clutch Spring.
So I will end up with 7 Wide with only 1 narrow.   
I am not going to double up clutch spring because I do not want to modify master cylinder at this time.
I might keep the original spring however and add later if necessary.
All good?
Hope this cures my clutch slippage.

Don't have hight expectations of this alone fixing the clutch slip. It is more of a "good thing to do while you're in there" than a fix for a slipping clutch.

Clutch's need two things to work, friction and pressure. The fibre plates providing the friction don't so much wear down as become slippery, for a number of reasons. The spring, providing the pressure, loses some, but not a great deal of it's force over time. I have found that new fibres and a 100,000km old spring worked well but threw the spring in for good measure. In my experience it is usually the fibre plates, not the spring, but it is good practice to replace the spring anyway. Just like in a car, you never relplace just the clutch plate or just the pressure plate and you always install a new throwout bearing. In other words, you don't do half a job, if the clutch is stuffed, replace it.

The common fix recommended on the forum (not by me) is to compensate for the slipping plates by doubling up the spring, a crude but effective fix. As popular as it is I have noticed some members recently removing it, having tired of the heavy clutch.
The FJR spring is an FJ spring, it is no stronger, it's just cheaper to buy as that.

The average life of a wet clutch on a big heavy bike is 60-80,000kms but this can vary dramatically depending on use. Unlike a dry clutch, the life expectancy is also affected by things such as regularity of oil changes, type of oil used, additives and of course, use.

Clutch's are not very robust, because used as intended, they don't need to be. This means a poorly used or abused clutch can have it life shortened dramatically.

The advice here will be a second clutch spring, my advice is to replace the worn parts with new ones, that being the fibre clutch plates and a new spring for good measure, this will return the clutch to as new condition and retain the light feel at the lever. Your choice, both will stop the slipping.

Because of the wildly varying use and abuse of clutch's, the above assumes slippage is wear and tear from normal use.

This guy unintentionally destroyed a clutch in 30 secs from improper use.

http://youtu.be/bM3So0U1BMQ

Noel

[Temblor]

Anybody know? Is the small pushrod supposed to be seated flush against clutch Nut?
If so, maybe the Bearing did not roll all the way back in?
Right now, it appears as though the small push rod seats against the flywheel, and my clutch cover goes on correctly with no gap..
but that darn picture in the Clymer book, seems to show the pushrod seated flush against the clutch nut!!??
OK I will go work on my boat today till I find the answer
Help on this please

[FJmonkey]

Anybody know? Is the small pushrod supposed to be seated flush against clutch Nut?
If so, maybe the Bearing did not roll all the way back in?
Right now, it appears as though the small push rod seats against the flywheel, and my clutch cover goes on correctly with no gap..
but that darn picture in the Clymer book, seems to show the pushrod seated flush against the clutch nut!!??
OK I will go work on my boat today till I find the answer
Help on this please

I think that will push in as you install the spring bolts. It will push the clutch rod back into the clutch slave. Did you by chance squeeze the clutch lever with things apart? If so then you will need to bleed the system again. This was posted not too long ago. 

[andyb]

Within the clutch slave is a spring.  When you remove the pressure plate from the clutch to service the wear bits in the clutch pack, that spring slowly will extend.  Not having a pressure plate to hold against it, it can go through the full length of travel.  Reinstalling the pressure plate will push it back to where it should be.  If you can't get things started, just take the slave cylinder bolts out and then you can assemble the clutch again, then reinstall the slave.

[Temblor]

Within the clutch slave is a spring.  When you remove the pressure plate from the clutch to service the wear bits in the clutch pack, that spring slowly will extend.  Not having a pressure plate to hold against it, it can go through the full length of travel.  Reinstalling the pressure plate will push it back to where it should be.  If you can't get things started, just take the slave cylinder bolts out and then you can assemble the clutch again, then reinstall the slave.

Cool thanks, will put clutch cover on and report back on clutch operation.

[Temblor]

I did not depress clutch lever..
I assembled ans started put bike in gear and released clutch and nothing. Will not even move tire on center stand.
Maybe I have a Slave cylinder problem?
I checked fluid level and it is full..
I have heard the hole in bottom of slave cylinder will get clogged?