Handling

[ribbert]

Neil,

I would not trust swingarm lengths, or marks on swingarms.  Get two lengths of conduit (or other rigid, straight poles), as long as the bike.  Put the bike up on the centerstand, on a flat, level slab.  Hook a bungee cord through the rear wheel to one pole, around the other pole, and back.  The rear ends of the poles should be behind the bike.  The bungee cord can pass through the wheel as many times as needed, to use the full length of the bungee cord, with each end of the bungee cord hooked to a pole.  The bungee cord only needs to be tight enough to support the poles at the rear wheel; you do not want or need to crush the tire, there.  The poles should be set below, and as close as possible to the rear hub, without touching any other part of the bike.  Adjust the rear axle position for the correct chain tension, while having the front wheel centered between the poles at the front.

If the front wheel is centered between the poles, then the rear axle alignment is correct.  I think you will find that the swingarm marks are not entirely accurate, and should not be used.

Cheers,
Red

That's excellent Red. You might want to mention how you tell when the front wheel is centred. It's not always obvious if you haven't done it before.

Noel

[red]

Neil,
If the front wheel is centered between the poles, then the rear axle alignment is correct.  I think you will find that the swingarm marks are not entirely accurate, and should not be used.
Cheers,
Red

That's excellent Red. You might want to mention how you tell when the front wheel is centred. It's not always obvious if you haven't done it before.
Noel

Noel,

Not sure what you are asking, there.  The front wheel should be steered to point straight at the rear wheel.  You can use vision or sight lines (just as the poles are used) to be sure each side of the front tire "sees" as much of the rear tire as the other side.  If the front ends of the poles drag on the ground, just lift the front ends of the poles a small distance, drop them and let them bounce to a relaxed resting spot (repeat as needed, and once more, after you think you are done).  The front tire is usually narrower than the rear, so just measure the gap between lowest part of the front tire and the side of the pole there, on each side of the front tire.  If each side of the front tire is, for example, 3/8 inch or one cm from the pole on that side, then the tire is centered between the poles.

Did that answer your question?

P.S. When the rear wheel aligns properly with the front wheel, check that the chain sprockets are also in alignment.  If a sprocket alignment tool says that the rear sprocket does not point at the front sprocket, or the front sprocket does not point at the rear sprocket, that is a separate (and maybe serious) problem.  You may need maintenance on the swingarm pivots, or you may have a bent frame, or an axle spacer is not the right thickness.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Not sure how technically accurate this is but I watch how the rear sprocket meshes with the chain to gauge alignment.  I also look to make sure the chain is running in the middle of the sprocket teeth and not off to one side or the other.

[NJona86FJ]

G'day
Wow thanks guys. Heaps of tips, I like it, I don't have conduit so am going to do the same principle but with string, ( that's what I meant by string lining it). I will do these things you all suggest, and let you know the outcome. Then it's on to the Subaru with blown heads. Yay.
Cheers again
Neil.

[ribbert]

Neil,
If the front wheel is centered between the poles, then the rear axle alignment is correct.  I think you will find that the swingarm marks are not entirely accurate, and should not be used.
Cheers,
Red

That's excellent Red. You might want to mention how you tell when the front wheel is centred. It's not always obvious if you haven't done it before.
Noel

Noel,

Not sure what you are asking, there.

What I was referring to was this measurement.



... and I agree with you, chain alignment is not wheel alignment.

Noel

[red]

Noel,
Not sure what you are asking, there.

What I was referring to was this measurement.

... and I agree with you, chain alignment is not wheel alignment.
Noel

Noel,

Sorry, man, but there is no possible adjustment of the rear wheel that will bring your "Out of Alignment" drawing to a good end.  As I said, first you must steer the front wheel, to get it pointed straight at the rear wheel.  Then, you would have two equal measurements on the right side for the front wheel, and two equal measurements for the left side of the front wheel.  These left and right measurements will not be equal, left-to-right, for the case shown in your drawing.  Then, the rear wheel can be aligned, to fix the problem.

The adjustment mentioned in the drawing may be sufficient, then, but more likely, the left side will require tightening, as well as the right side needing loosening.  When the rear wheel is aligned properly, the drive chain tension must also be correct.

I think the four measurements shown on the front wheel drawing are needlessly complicated.  If you measure from the low point of the front wheel sidewall to the (stringline/ sightline/ ) conduit (as I said), then you will only need two measurements, a left and a right.  Any minor steering error at the front wheel may become inconsequential, and may even be disregarded.  When these two measurements are equal, left-to-right, the rear wheel is correctly aligned.

Since there is some slop in the fitment of the banjo bolts on the rear axle, here is the best way to get everything set right, reliably:  Loosen the rear axle nut, and loosen the banjo adjusting nuts by at least several turns.  Move the rear wheel forward in the frame, so there is some slack in the chain.  Tighten the rear axle nut just barely snug, but not to torque specs.  Steer the front wheel, to be pointed straight at the rear wheel.  Tighten the adjusting nut on one banjo bolt, to bring the rear wheel into the correct alignment.  When the rear wheel is aligned correctly, then tighten the adjusting nut on each banjo bolt, half a turn.  Repeat this step as needed, until the drive chain has the correct tension, and the rear wheel is properly aligned with the front wheel.  To tighten the axle nut, push the wrench forward (toward the front of the bike) only.  Pulling the wrench rearward can change the rear wheel alignment.  Tighten the axle nut to the correct torque specs, and install the cotter key (split-pin).  Bend one end of the cotter key over the axle, to retain the cotter key.  On each of the banjo bolts, hold the adjusting nut steady with one wrench, and tighten the locking nut against the adjusting nut firmly, to the correct torque.  Re-check the wheel alignment, when everything is torqued to specs.

Further discussion is welcome here.

Cheers,
Red

[FJ_Hooligan]

To keep the axle snugged up to the adjustment bolts while tightening the axle nut, I put a piece of wood between the chain and rear sprocket and roll the tire to clamp it there.  This provides a forward force on the wheel/axle to keep it pulled into the adjustment bolts.

[ribbert]

Sorry, man, but there is no possible adjustment of the rear wheel that will bring your "Out of Alignment" drawing to a good end. 
Red

Red, you've lost me, but then, it is early morning.

The diagram (not mine) was simply to demonstrate the outcome you want, equal measurements at the four points shown with conduits fixed to back wheel as you suggested. That's it.
I didn't really even look at the "out of alignment" picture, but now that I have, I don't see a problem with it anyway.

I agree, string is imprecise but that just happened to be on the diagram I lifted and was irrelevant to the point I was making.

The mechanics of how you make the adjustments is another thing and not one I wished to comment on.

Also you might want to try one of these next time (pushed in from the front) instead of the split pin, they're quick and a lot neater, re usable and require no tools.



Noel

[red]

Sorry, man, but there is no possible adjustment of the rear wheel that will bring your "Out of Alignment" drawing to a good end. 
Red

Red, you've lost me, but then, it is early morning.
The diagram (not mine) was simply to demonstrate the outcome you want, equal measurements at the four points shown with conduits fixed to back wheel as you suggested. That's it.
Also you might want to try one of these next time (pushed in from the front) instead of the split pin, they're quick and a lot neater, re usable and require no tools.
Noel

Noel,

Okay, no worries, mate.      As long as the end result is good, that's all that matters, here.  That R-clip in the USA is called a cinch pin (as in, "It's a cinch" or easy).  Unfortunately, my neighborhood is totally overrun with kidlets, and I'd worry that one of them might want to have a "souvenir" from the swift FJ.  I use cinch pins to secure my trailer hitch clevis pin, when towing the trailer.  They do the job well.

Cheers,
Red

[twangin4u]

Defective tire.