News:

           Enjoy your FJ


Main Menu

Need help diagnosing a problem

Started by Targan, March 29, 2014, 06:04:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Targan

I am by no means mechanically inclined, but I want to figure out the severity of this issue. So here are the symptoms im experiencing, all of these are out of the ordinary:
>When I flip the kill switch to "run" after it's been sitting for a few hours (or cold) I hear a loud spurt or pop sound. If the bike only sits for an hour it does not do this.
>Bike is way harder to start and idles super low
>Loss of power when riding
>Oil leaking off the engine case. Oil is all over the front of the engine and all throughout underneath, but I cant tell what is just "dirty engine" and what is the leak.
>I have an air/fuel meter on my dash and while engine braking it goes SUPER lean (only went slightly lean before), and bike constantly pops now.

Is this a fuel pump, or oil pressure situation? Any help is appreciated!

Pat Conlon

Note to others: Targa  has the black '89 1314cc, Dyna ignition....

>When I flip the kill switch to "run" after it's been sitting for a few hours (or cold) I hear a loud spurt or pop sound. If the bike only sits for an hour it does not do this.

**** Well that's a good one. When you say 'kill switch' do you mean the handlebar mounted switch on the throttle side, or the key ignition switch? Where is the 'spurt' or 'pop' sound coming from? Certainly not the switch. I've never heard of a switch making that sound. Why not try a different shut down procedure?
When you turn the key on to start the bike, do you hear the clicking sound from your fuel pump? If so, does the clicking sound stop after say, 6 seconds or so..?

>Bike is way harder to start and idles super low
**** After the kill switch pop? Or always? Did you try turning the idle up to 1,000 rpm? Did the PO remove the heat shielding between the engine and carbs?

>Loss of power when riding
**** After the kill switch pop or always? Any symptoms other than loss of power? Ignition? Fuel? Check for a vacuum leak or perhaps you have a weak fuel pump (points) Check your plugs. What are they telling you? Rich or lean?  Rich? Check your float levels. Lean? Vacuum leak.

>Oil leaking off the engine case. Oil is all over the front of the engine and all throughout underneath, but I cant tell what is just "dirty engine" and what is the leak.
**** Check your valve cover gasket. Check the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts. Get some S100 soap and wash your engine. Run the bike a bit, get some white talcum powder in your hand and blow it on your engine. You will see where the oil is coming from.

>I have an air/fuel meter on my dash and while engine braking it goes SUPER lean (only went slightly lean before), and bike constantly pops now.
**** Yea, sounds like a vacuum leak. Air is getting in somewhere. Check the carb ports, make sure the caps are on, check the carb boots and o rings on the intake manifolds,

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

rktmanfj

Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 29, 2014, 06:44:39 PM
<snip>
**** Check your valve cover gasket. Check the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts. Get some S100 soap and wash your engine. Run the bike a bit, get some white talcum powder in your hand and blow it on your engine. Use a can of spray foot powder.   :good:  You will see where the oil is coming from.
<snip>

FTFY    :pardon:
Randy T
Indy

Blessed be the LORD my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight.
Psalms 144:1

'89 FJ1200
'90 FJ1200
'78 XT500
'88 XT350


Pat Conlon

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Targan

Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 29, 2014, 06:44:39 PM
Note to others: Targa  has the black '89 1314cc, Dyna ignition....

>When I flip the kill switch to "run" after it's been sitting for a few hours (or cold) I hear a loud spurt or pop sound. If the bike only sits for an hour it does not do this.

**** Well that's a good one. When you say 'kill switch' do you mean the handlebar mounted switch on the throttle side, or the key ignition switch? Where is the 'spurt' or 'pop' sound coming from? Certainly not the switch. I've never heard of a switch making that sound. Why not try a different shut down procedure?
When you turn the key on to start the bike, do you hear the clicking sound from your fuel pump? If so, does the clicking sound stop after say, 6 seconds or so..?

>Bike is way harder to start and idles super low
**** After the kill switch pop? Or always? Did you try turning the idle up to 1,000 rpm? Did the PO remove the heat shielding between the engine and carbs?

>Loss of power when riding
**** After the kill switch pop or always? Any symptoms other than loss of power? Ignition? Fuel? Check for a vacuum leak or perhaps you have a weak fuel pump (points)

>Oil leaking off the engine case. Oil is all over the front of the engine and all throughout underneath, but I cant tell what is just "dirty engine" and what is the leak.
**** Check your valve cover gasket. Check the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts. Get some S100 soap and wash your engine. Run the bike a bit, get some white talcum powder in your hand and blow it on your engine. You will see where the oil is coming from.

>I have an air/fuel meter on my dash and while engine braking it goes SUPER lean (only went slightly lean before), and bike constantly pops now.
**** Yea, sounds like a vacuum leak. Air is getting in somewhere. Check the carb ports, make sure the caps are on, check the carb boots and o rings on the intake manifolds,


I apologize, I could have been more detailed.
All These symptoms are AFTER this started happening (2 days ago).
My shutdown procedure is kill switch off, key ignition off, center stand down, reverse order to start the bike. I guess the pop or spurt noise i'm referring to is the fuel pump. Normally it would click for a few seconds, now (only when the bike is cold) i just hear a quick pretty loud "spurt". I had a vacuum leak on my last bike and a symptom was that after using the throttle it didn't go straight back to idle (it took a few seconds to wind down), my FJ doesnt do that though.
Regardless I'm taking this bike to a shop. I just want to get kind of a heads-up on the severity of this issue because I'm on a tight budget currently.

Targan

Now this is just a guess from what very basic knowledge I have (more like none lol) but I feel like it is a gasket somewhere that blew out or is leaking.
>Less power
>Running lean because of more air travelling through the engine without exhaust backpressure holding it back
>Leaking oil.

Would that be correct?

What confuses me is if its the fuel pump, why would it leak oil? (confirmed oil on the ground) I don't know much about this stuff though

Pat Conlon

Well laddie boy, you're gonna learn. You have a highly modified motorcycle.
We can't tell you anything about your oil leak, until you tell us where it's coming from.
As I mentioned, top end leaks are common, but you could have run your bike lean and cooked your base gasket....you want to hope that is not the case.

Ball's in your court.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

andyb


simi_ed

"Regardless I'm taking this bike to a shop. I just want to get kind of a heads-up on the severity of this issue because I'm on a tight budget currently."

OK, maybe I missed something here, but the above statement seems like a contradiction.  If I were on a tight budget, the LAST place I'd take my bike (or almost anything else!) would be to a shop!  Pat (and others here) will try to help you diagnose the problem, but it is pretty difficult without solid feedback as to what you see, hear, smell, etc. regarding the problem.  If you send out bad info, you'll get bad feedback regarding the problem. 
I'd be happy to offer any input that I have as well, but please send out good info.

==============

OK, when did the low idle, lack of power, hard starting issue begin?  Did you DO something just before this began?  Or has it been like this since you bought it?  This would include removing carbs, air filters, gas tank, etc ...  Anything?
-- RKBA Regards,

Ed
===
Ed Thiele 
Simi Valley, CA -- I no longer have SoCal manners.
'89 FJ12C (Theft deterrent Silver/White)


- All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for
enough good men to do nothing.

- Edmund Burke

FJ_Hooligan

You're obviously not qualified to own it.  Sell it to someone who is.
DavidR.

movenon

I agree with Ed !  You will be better off learning how to fix your bike or at least up to a point.  You have separate problems. Take one at a time.
Leave the kill switch in run. IMO don't use it for starting or stopping. Just use your ignition switch.

You are losing power and low idle?  Your idle should be around 1050 RPM.  

First simple stuff.  Check you air intake (filter).  Stock air box or foam filters ? (looking for an air restriction)
The fuel pump will run for 3 or 4 seconds then shut off if you don't start the engine.
Check your fuel lines for a kink or pinched.
You should have a fuel filter located under the fuel tank.

Things to start with anyhow.

I would fix the running problem first.  Then the oil leak next.
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

Zwartie

Quote from: Targan on March 29, 2014, 07:34:29 PM
My shutdown procedure is kill switch off, key ignition off, center stand down, reverse order to start the bike.

I know this doesn't solve your problem but I wanted to comment on your shut-down procedure. Why do you use the kill switch to turn the bike off? It's unnecessary to do so. The "kill switch" is also called the "engine shut-off" or "emergency shut-off" switch. It is not needed for daily use. I recall talking to another FJ owner some years ago who asked me how many kill switches I've gone through as he had to replace his at least once. Oddly enough, he used it regularly to shut off the bike whereas I never do. Another reason not to use the kill switch to turn off the bike is that eventually you will leave the key in the ignition and walk away from the bike. More than once I've seen motorcycles parked with the kill switch turned off, the key still in the ignition and the owner nowhere to be found. Use the key to turn the bike off and you won't forget it!

As far as your problems go, I agree that you need to separate the issues and deal with them one at a time. How long have you had the bike? It sounds like you haven't had it for too long. Get a Clymer or Haynes manual and get familiar with the bike if you plan on riding it for a while.

You've come to the right forum for advice - these guys know their stuff!

Zwartie
Ben Zwart
London, ON
1992 FJ1200
1977 KZ200

FJscott

My son brought over his friends bike that had similar symptoms. His symptoms came up all of a sudden. I asked what if anything has been done recently to the bike. He replied all he's done is change the oil. I drained 8 qts of oil out of the crankcase. :dash1:

Im not saying that this guys problem but suggest as George has to start with the simple things, especially when dealing with a Novice.

Scott

fj1289

The occasional "pop" is not unusual with Dyna ignitions when you they first get power.  So don't worry about that one. 

As far as the air fuel ratio gauge - do you know if it is a wide band or narrow band sensor? 

For the running issue - X2 on what has been said already - vacuum leak. 

Also, take the battery in to an AutoZone or similar place and get the battery load tested. I've had odd running issues in the past that seemed like ignition issues but were caused by a battery just beginning to fail internally. 

Good luck. Keep us posted.  And do not take it somewhere unless you know them very very well.

Targan

Hey guys I'm so sorry I'm not that specific. And for the one who said I'm not worthy to own it needs to tone it down. I would love to work on my own bike, I would love to learn to fix things, but I CAN'T because I live in an apartment complex which doesn't allow maintenance to be done to vehicles. I don't have any friends  with garage space to work on the bike either. I posted this to take a chance on it being a very known issue, to see how bad the issue sounds so I can know what to expect when I take it in. Sometimes multiple symptoms can all be traced to one problem, sometimes not. For those of you who answered I greatly appreciate all the help :) I had a vacuum leak in my old bike and the guys I take my bikes to did a very good and cheap job so I'm not worried anymore. I don't mind taking my bike to a shop because I personally know the owner very well, and they always give me great prices. If I can afford it, I rather have a PROFESSIONAL work on my bike than me screw something up trying to learn. 
When I posted I wasn't looking for a magic cure, I was looking for thoughts and opinions.
My question has been answered.