Well

[FJ111200]

Are you still having a problem with the clearance issue between the caliper piston and the disc?

I only suggested using the 36Y/1TX caliper as a "maybe".   I know it works 'cos I fitted one on my FJ. They must also heve a bigger bore for the fluid as I found you can lock the rear wheel without much pressure.

Has too much metal been taken off the caliper bracket to cause your problem?  I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.

[keand3]

Are you still having a problem with the clearance issue between the caliper piston and the disc?.
Has too much metal been taken off the caliper bracket to cause your problem?  I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.

Fjclub send of this brackets to be machined elsewhere, so they don't do it them self. And they should have been quality checked before shipping them out. Don't know if they did so i did measure then my self. 

The thickness of the caliper bracket seems to be correct when i measure it, so I'm actuall not sure what causes it 
I haven't tried fitting the OEM spacer on the left,  it should be some mm thicker then the one that came with the kit.
The only concern i have fitting it isvthat the offset on the chain will be to great.

[Joe Sull]

Well! Did you finish it?

[keand3]

No, iam working 13 - 14 hours days so time isent on my side.
I will however make some measurements to during the weekend and see if I may order some next week.

Took off my end pieces on the handle bar, by the first look of it it look my endbar blinkers won't fit.
Will tinker around and see..

Cheers
Ken

[keand3]

Just a quick update on the thread.

Last night i was able to glue on a new heat sheild it, change the bad fuel line and safty wire the petcock.

It was a bit cold outide yesterday so i hope the glue and shield have bonded by now.

Here's some pics

[FJ_Hooligan]

Just a note.  The fuel line to the petcock needs to run UNDER the hose feeding carbs 3&4.  Otherwise it could pinch off.

[FJmonkey]

Just a note.  The fuel line to the petcock needs to run UNDER the hose feeding carbs 3&4.  Otherwise it could pinch off.

I believe it runs under both hoses. Otherwise it will pinch on the #1 & 2 hose as well.

[Joe Sull]

I did a search because I didn't understand.
Monkey wrote this;
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9266.msg87760#msg87760

Scroll down to see picture #2

I'm glad this came up.

[keand3]

Just a note.  The fuel line to the petcock needs to run UNDER the hose feeding carbs 3&4.  Otherwise it could pinch off.

Thank you for noticing guys 
You are absolute right! it needs to be routed underneath those two feed lines.

I have never had any fuel starvation issues with the bike, and i think the PO Did ride it like this.
I didn't notice the improper routing until the first winter when it came a part. 

After the picture was taken it was routed correctly. 

Looks like I'm getting a few days off of work this week so i will try to get around installing the handlebar blinkers.
Anyone with a good idea of where to drill the hole in the handlebar for wires?

Cheers
Ken

[Joe Sull]

Do you put something under the tank or levitate it somehow while you diddle with the hose clamp and hose?

[ribbert]

Do you put something under the tank or levitate it somehow while you diddle with the hose clamp and hose?

With the front lugs engaged you can lift the back of the tank quite high, even higher than this if necessary.

[keand3]

Since my tank is practical empty now, I just take ti off or hold it with one hand.
For a heavier tank or when in need of both hands I do as ribbert does, as shown on the picture.  

My tank had to be empty before I glued on the heat shield. The next job is to try and clean up that conact glue from the spraycan, that slightly hit the new paint...

Cheers

Ken

[keand3]

Kookaloooo

I had my first ride today!! What a feeling! It seems like the spring has arrived early this year so I am hopping it will hold... We can how ever expect snow for at least two more month (that's inc. march)

Anyway, work has been a bitch lately and the hours feels like been multiplying for each week. I have not bother on taking photos of the reassemble of the bike up until now.
I will how ever take some tomorrow, or sunday, and upload. I'm quite happy with the end result and the paint etc.



Still got some minor things to do before its completely finished and ready for this year season. I am waiting for my new clutch reservoir to arrive from the states within 2 weeks or so, and a set of new mirrors from Germany. (BTW, have a 2 pairs of unused CBR mirrors (with and with out integrated turnsignals) if anyones interested)
Need to change to my new chain. (yes I know, I should have done it before riding!! ) Have to order a new windscreen so my old one won't ruin the look of the new paint.

I have installed the new Kellermann BL2000 endbars turnsingnal blinkers and they are just a delight to use No more fainring fiddling and turnsignal bracket repairs! 

My clearance issue on the rear brake caliper, seem now the be within acceptable offset... All though there is no braking power! I have no rear wheel brake so I have to look into that.
Any "special" trick to bleed that damn rear caliper? I think there might be some issues internally with the caliper, cause it doesn't seem to get fluid evenly on both sides. When I bleed on the outside it seems to work fine, but on the inside it only leaks when I undo the bleed screw.
I use compressed air so there shoulden't be any problem getting the fluid through the system, although it seems like that the case..

[FJmonkey]

I have no personal experience with these but the concept is spot on, and others praise them. I will be upgrading my FJ with them.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[Joe Sull]

I speed bled my brakes with a little hose on the fitting long enough to reach to the bottom of a little clear jar. I put a little fluid in to cause a seal.
I'm sure that you do the same thing. The thing is that it doesn't work to get all the air out for some reason. My bike set for a day or so and I set up the jar and the tube on the fitting the same way but I used a wrench on the fitting. I just don't want fluid on the paint.
I pump up the brake and hold it then open the valve. When the lever hits bottom close the valve. Do that 5 times and you should be good.
My brakes and clutch are rock solid
I had a hard time with the clutch. I must have speed bled for 15 minutes till I started to get something. I got it a point were the clutch was working but there was still air in it. Sitting overnight must let the bubbles move to one spot. I went back and bled with a wrench and the clutch pumped up hard. good luck. It will be great to see the pics.