ignition? bike ran now wont fire

[oldktmdude]

   My money is on  blocked choke circuits. The PO cleaned the carbs and probably missed cleaning the small holes in the float bodies. This is a very commonly overlooked place to clean. Spray carb cleaner down the hole in the float body and see if it exits through the hole at the bottom of the bowl. Sometimes compressed air is enough to clear this out but occasionally it may need clearing with a fine piece of wire. Use a piece of soft wire, i.e. copper or aluminium, so you don't enlarge the dimensions of this orifice.     Pete.   

[fj1289]

While you are working on the carbs put the battery on a charger.  Starting problems are tough on the battery.  A weak battery will cause starting and running problems too.

[movenon]

OK, If you get into checking the ignition,  another way is to remove the left side ignition pick-up cover (4 screws). Put a timing light on no. 1 plug wire and have someone crank it briefly and check timing. Should get a light at TDC mark. Got fire at TDC then good. Got no fire, bad. Air, fuel, fire...

But do the fuel checks first,  follow FJmoney's advice. Then if it were me I would do the timing light check, if OK then read about rebuilding/cleaning the carbs.
If you have to remove the carbs then ask questions first. There is a hard way and an easier way.
George

[Capn Ron]

OK, If you get into checking the ignition,  another way is to remove the left side ignition pick-up cover (4 screws). Put a timing light on no. 1 plug wire and have someone crank it briefly and check timing. Should get a light at TDC mark. Got fire at TDC then good. Got no fire, bad. Air, fuel, fire...
George

This ended up being my trouble a year ago...The spark was being produced on all four cylinders, but at the wrong time (180 degrees out) and no start.  Putting a light on the timing puck will clear this up quickly and you can check ignition off your list.  With dry plugs, it does seem fuel related, but this is a pretty simple test...if you happen to own a timing light.   

Cap'n Ron. . .

[movenon]

OK, If you get into checking the ignition,  another way is to remove the left side ignition pick-up cover (4 screws). Put a timing light on no. 1 plug wire and have someone crank it briefly and check timing. Should get a light at TDC mark. Got fire at TDC then good. Got no fire, bad. Air, fuel, fire...
George

This ended up being my trouble a year ago...The spark was being produced on all four cylinders, but at the wrong time (180 degrees out) and no start.  Putting a light on the timing puck will clear this up quickly and you can check ignition off your list.  With dry plugs, it does seem fuel related, but this is a pretty simple test...if you happen to own a timing light.  

Cap'n Ron. . .

Last spring when I advanced the timing plate 4 degrees I used a timing light just to check things out. I was hoping to see and measure the advance but that must be controlled in the CDI unit. No matter the RPM the light fires at TDC I couldn't see any advance. But it will tell you if you have fire (in your case yes, but 180 out )... That was a good find.

Not much of a use for timing lights with the new car I guess. You see used timing lights at yard sales and used tool dealers all the time for cheap.
George

[FJ_Hooligan]

EVERY seller will claim that "the carbs were just cleaned" but that hardly ever the case.  You have a fuel delivery problem.

The ignition fires each coil once per crank revolution.  You will see a spark every 180 degrees of crank rotation bouncing between the 2 coils.  If you see a spark 180 degrees off, then you're on the wrong coil.  The #1 and #4 cylinders will spark at TDC, the 2/3 coil fires 180 degrees out.

[Capn Ron]

If you see a spark 180 degrees off, then you're on the wrong coil. 

Yeah, that's definitely the case if someone was taking a timing light tap from either the #2 or #3 cylinders, they would see the timing at 180 degrees out.  You've got a bad mechanic.   

If you're taking the timing light tap from the #1 cylinder and you see the timing at 180 degrees out, you've got a bad ignitor.

Cap'n Ron. . .

[bikeguy91]

the part of the petcock that moves out to allow fuel with the vacuum on, and in to stop flow when off was stuck. I have the petcock working now. hopefully that fixes the problem. I replaced the fuel lines and crankcase vent while i was there as well.

[movenon]

the part of the petcock that moves out to allow fuel with the vacuum on, and in to stop flow when off was stuck. I have the petcock working now. hopefully that fixes the problem. I replaced the fuel lines and crankcase vent while i was there as well.

Glad you found the problem. You might safety wire it. PLEASE read or scan through the threads below. I think the petcock can be replaced with a better designed unit if it comes to that. "FJmonkey" can give you some advice on that.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3251.0

George

[FJmonkey]

Failed the "Suck Test" eh? Glad you found it, fustrating as hell till you find it and fix it.

[bikeguy91]

thanks for the links movenon. I will definitely be safety wiring mine, even though its not loose. better safe than sorry