Carb rebuild

[ribbert]

...... If you use this for an "emergency kit" then also buy a cheap manual turn on and off valve. So you can shut the fuel off for an overnight stay or store it until it can be repaired properly.

I use these on fuel lines (or if I can't find them, vice grips)

''

Noel

[ribbert]

Dazza, there's an FJ owner on every corner in QL, or so it seems. Can't someone help you?

I'd put a bit more time into diagnosing before you consider replacing parts willy nilly.

Did this only happen after the carb rebuild? It sounds like a fueling problem from your description.

Noel

[movenon]

...... If you use this for an "emergency kit" then also buy a cheap manual turn on and off valve. So you can shut the fuel off for an overnight stay or store it until it can be repaired properly.

I use these on fuel lines (or if I can't find them, vice grips)

''

Noel

On the road (or home) vice grips are king ! One of the better inventions in life... They have saved my ass more than once.
George

[Capn Ron]

...... If you use this for an "emergency kit" then also buy a cheap manual turn on and off valve. So you can shut the fuel off for an overnight stay or store it until it can be repaired properly.

I use these on fuel lines (or if I can't find them, vice grips)

''

Noel

On the road (or home) vice grips are king ! One of the better inventions in life... They have saved my ass more than once.
George

Got a brand/model of those manual clamps Noel?  I can see many uses for those...

I've used vice grips on the rock crawler to pinch a ruptured brake line to get pedal pressure back for the other three wheels.  priceless!

Cap'n Ron. . .

[ribbert]

Got a brand/model of those manual clamps Noel?  I can see many uses for those...

Cap'n Ron. . .

No, had them for years but they are readily available from auto parts stores. The more serious ones not the accessory ones. Fuel line clamping is what they are made for and what they are called.

Noel

[movenon]

Got a brand/model of those manual clamps Noel?  I can see many uses for those...

Cap'n Ron. . .

No, had them for years but they are readily available from auto parts stores. The more serious ones not the accessory ones. Fuel line clamping is what they are made for and what they are called.

Noel

I located them on line at 29.00 a pair / 15.30 for one..... Kind of expensive but you probably don't need two of them. I think a trip to the hardware store and a little time I could make something similar. 
http://www.samstagsales.com/stahlwille.htm#Fuel
George

[ribbert]

I located them on line at 29.00 a pair / 15.30 for one..... Kind of expensive but you probably don't need two of them. I think a trip to the hardware store and a little time I could make something similar.  George

If space isn't an issue and it's for workshop use, these are the best.
You can also use them on brake hoses. One handed operation.



If you are going to make one, those small push bike vulcanising clamps that everyone has somewhere in the garage make a good starting point.

Noel

[Dazza57]

Wow, after a quiet weekend response-wise, this morning I get up to so many that I don't know where to start.
First, Marty, I stripped the carbs completely, including the drain plugs, cleaned and cleaned with carb cleaner, washed out with water then blew every orifice out several times with air before reassembling with all new brass and O rings. Checked the new jets were all the same as what was taken out, and even set the needles at the same height (middle).

When I installed the float I used verniers to set the height at 22mm (spec says 21.3-23.3). Once I had reassembled all the carbs I bolted them all together and did an eyeball throttle slide setup. Set the idle mixture screws to 2.5 turns out and put the carbs back into the bike with new inlet manifolds.

I installed a new K&N filter element, and was concerned I may have over oiled as I used about 2/3 of the little plastic sachet, but this arvo I took it out and reinstalled the paper one and the same thing is happening, so no luck there.

George, I changed the fuel filter at the same time all this work was done and the inside of the tank is pristine, so I'm not suspecting the petock screen. I don't think it is the flapper valve either, as the engine does this right from start off as soon as I load her up, only 50 metres down the road with the tank only half full.
Thanks also for the info on the fuel pump. I intend to try your fuel pump bypass tomorrow night, and try to see the fuel level as well, but plan to order a new pump from Randy anyway, as I don't want to miss out on my bike holiday down south in 3.5 weeks time, and figure Effy is 13 years old so is probably ready for a new pump 

Noel, thanks for the hint about all the Queensland FJers, but I live about 3500 kms away in the NW of Western Australia, 1500 kms north of Perth. It would be nice to have some of them a bit closer. Yes this has only happened since the carb rebuild. The reason I did it was one of the floats had jammed and emptied the tank over night. Couldn't be bothered waiting for it to happen again and since I had already purchased the kits, decided to bite the bullet and do the job. This wasn't the first time for me inside carbs, and I have never had problems before.

So tomorrow night after work I'll be scratching the head again and hopefully find the problem. Thanks as always for everyone's help and advice. Can't help but love this community.

Cheers, Dazza

[movenon]

Thanks for the information. It is difficult to trouble shoot via the internet sometimes. In reading your post you indicated that the needle (or needles) stuck and drained all your fuel out of the tank.

The fuel pump should have prevented that from happening. The fuel pump should have a built in check valve to stop fuel flow when there there is no power to it. It is a safety feature. If things were working correctly the only fuel that would leak with no power on,  is the fuel in your carb bowel. If you get a pump from RPM then I would swap your old pump out.  I would also recommend you hang on to your old pump, you might be able to repair it later and have a spare.

If you drained out all the fuel in the tank also check that fuel did not leak forward into the engine and end up diluting the engine oil. It sounds strange but can happen.
George 

[Capn Ron]

If you drained out all the fuel in the tank also check that fuel did not leak forward into the engine and end up diluting the engine oil. It sounds strange but can happen.
George 

I bought my first bike in '86...it was a new '82 Yamaha Seca 550 sold as a "leftover."  Because it had been sitting in a crate for four years, the tank had surface rust.  The day I took delivery of it, something seemed off.  Was stumbling, running very rich.  I turned around and rode it right into the service department.  The sediment from the fuel tank had kept the needles from seating, this flooded the carbs, the excess fuel had run into the cylinders.  From there, the fuel trickled down around the piston rings and FILLED the crankcase with gasoline!  When they drained the "oil", it was more gas than oil!  I thought I was riding around on a potential bomb!     Not to mention the engine damage from lack of lubrication.

Cap'n Ron. . .

[movenon]

It has never happened to me (knowingly) but I have heard about it a number of times so I thought it might be worth mentioning as good information to others that might be reading the thread.

Ron your story highlights an opinion that I believe is more of a concern now with older bikes that have no fuel filtering system in place. Tanks really don't get cleaner with age.. The FJ tank in particular has a pretty big "crap trap" in it's design. The left and right side of the fuel tank where your knees rest there are two voids that are below the petcock level. Probably could hold a pint of fuel, rust, water, anything heaver than gas etc..

If you use a bunch of bolts, nuts, sheet rock screws etc with a cleaning agent to "scrub" the inside if the FJ fuel tank, when you are done fishing out all the screws with a magnet, for about a half a day....the last SOB screw will be jammed down in the double wall tapered wing area.... 

The user manual mentions to only fuel up to the bottom of what I will call the "fill tube". We all know if you go any higher you most likely will leak some fuel around the cap area. Really nice if you have a tank bag..... Between the bottom of the "fill tube" and the actual inside top of the tank there is at least 3/4 inch plus or minus of air space. This air space is good for condensing water etc. especially during long storage periods. Rust and crud can build up on the tank roof to later be washed off and dropping to the bottom of the tank. This problem is enhanced if you let outside free air into the fuel tank. By removing the flapper valve it could aggravate the problem?  I guess that's something to think about anyhow. 

And that was today's project, remove,disassemble and clean as required the fuel vent system in the cap. All went well thanks to the excellent posting in the files section http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2024.0.

If you have the tank off and all the fittings are out it is still hard to inspect inside of the tank. Having gone though this very recently I noticed while checking out at the local Wally World yesterday that they had a rack with one of those "as seen on TV" deals and noticed a small inspection light with a flexable stem that would have been handy during my cleaning process for less than 10.00. Like this one http://www.rakuten.com/prod/as-seen-on-tv-bell-howell-iscope-compact-led-magnetic-telescopic-light/247809309.html?listingId=271288661. Cheaper at Wally World.

George

[The General]

Noel, thanks for the hint about all the Queensland FJers, but I live about 3500 kms away in the NW of Western Australia, 1500 kms north of Perth. It would be nice to have some of them a bit closer...Can't help but love this community...

Cheers, Dazza

....So I guess we`ll see ya at Jindabyne then?...Would you like coffee with that steel butt trophy? 

[Dazza57]

Mate, I was seriously tempted believe me! Did Pannawonica (look that one up) to Bathurst in 83 for the bike races, 17,000 kms in 3 weeks

[NJona86FJ]

  17000 ks in 3 weeks!! Nice work.! It's not in the same league but I miss my Brisvegas to Newcastle night runs. Not to steal the thread but what were you on bike wise?
Cheers
Neil

[Dan Filetti]

I bought my first bike in '86...it was a new '82 Yamaha Seca 550 sold as a "leftover." 
Cap'n Ron. . .

My first [street] bike was a Yamaha Maxim -almost certainly nearly the same bike as your Seca -lovely bike that was.

Dan