Removing the lower steering head bearing race

[WhiteBeard]

I've been reading about the Dremel method for removing the lower race.


My Haynes manual suggests the use of a tool similar to this:



Has anybody here successfully used a tool like this to drive out the race?

Or is it better to stick with the Dremel method...

/Nat

[Capn Ron]

That would work on some head bearing races, but not on the FJ lower.  There is no "lip" to grab on to so that tool has nothing to grip.

Cap'n Ron. . .

[Travis398]

cap'n Ron is right.........don't waste your time/money unless you want to use it on a different bike.

[WhiteBeard]

cap'n Ron is right.........don't waste your time/money unless you want to use it on a different bike.

Oh well, Dremel it is then.

First I have to gather some courage... at least now I know what I have to deal with.


Thanks! 

[Flynt]

Or is it better to stick with the Dremel method...

Use your dremel to make notches for this tool to fit in.  Cutting through the race will almost certainly cut into the frame somewhat.  I found you could take out a bunch of material right at the physical top of the bearing and use a tool like this to drive the bearing out.  

I think the welding method sounds best though.  Weld on a bolt and use a slide hammer...  can't remember where I saw this?

Frank

[ribbert]

Oh well, Dremel it is then.

First I have to gather some courage...

No courage needed. If you nick the frame with the Dremel, it doesn't matter.

As far as welding a bolt on goes, the heat from the welding alone is likely to be enough to do the trick. I would be welding (mig) a few spots on it just for the heat.

Noel

[movenon]

Frank has a good idea there. I just did mine using a Dremel. Min. nicking of the frame. Has to be one of the hardest jobs on the FJ that I have done. 
But I have no experience tearing into the engine so there might be something more difficult there....
George

[skymasteres]

If you have access to a mig welder you can just do what I did and weld a bead along the inside of the bearing race. The Heat from the weld shrunk the metal and it just about dropped out. (Tapped it with the edge of an alignment punch.) Just be prepared to touch up the paint on the frame... (opps)

[movenon]

If you have access to a mig welder you can just do what I did and weld a bead along the inside of the bearing race. The Heat from the weld shrunk the metal and it just about dropped out. (Tapped it with the edge of an alignment punch.) Just be prepared to touch up the paint on the frame... (opps)

I have a Miller Matic 35 and I would do that as a last resort. Not being a professional welder  (I have been "farm" welding for over 30 years) I have to say one of the things I really hate is over head welding.  I was also concerned with "aw shit, I just tacked the race to the frame".... and wanted to avoid putting heat into the head. If I had the frame only and could turn it upside down I might have been more tempted.
If I ever have to do another one I think that I might try what Frank suggested I would have to build or buy a tool but that doesn't look hard.

And for anyone that hasn't done head bearings. To install the lower race, just tap it in until it is flush with the lower head rim. The race has to go up further to seat.
Install the upper and lower bearings and steering stem, tighten down on the ring nut and the lower race will pull up into position. You could also use a short piece of pipe for a spacer and use the top nut to tighten up the assembly. This will take about 30 - 40 ft lbs to pull the race up into position. You will feel it when it stops.  Uninstall the steering stem and inspect that race is back up where it belongs then reinstall. Install dust cover, TQ the ring nut to 2.2 ft lbs. install the rubber washer (important) , finger tighten the top ring nut, install lock ring, steering crown, and steering top nut (TQ 80 ft Lbs).

Note: the ring nuts have an up and down position. Yamaha has a bold note to always install the tapered edge of the ring nut facing down.

In my opinion have a shop press on the lower bearing to the steering stem. They should not charge more that 15 or 20 dollars and it is money well spent. They can do it while you wait.... Any machine shop can do it. Or if you know someone with a press then perhaps a six pack might get her done.... 

George

[Capn Ron]

In my opinion have a shop press on the lower bearing to the steering stem. They should not charge more that 15 or 20 dollars and it is money well spent.  Or if you know someone with a press then perhaps a six pack might get her done.... 

George

I've got a press and I'd do it...and most things mechanical...for a mere "thank you!"  Of course if you showed up with a sixer, it'd make the job go smoother!   

When I was working in the bicycle shop on the beach in San Diego, people would come in with some emergency and want to be put in the front of the line.  Something like a headset rebuild...or a bottom bracket overhaul.  "Can't you do it while I wait???"  I would ask them, "Have you seen our sign?"  They'd have to lean in...crane their neck a bit, but behind the counter was a sign that read, "Mechanics prefer Molson."  I would usually get a knowing nod and a query as to who sold the fine Canadian Ale all the way down in San Diego.  I'd direct them to the only store in town that carried it and knew it would take them about an hour to return.  Just about the time I needed to fix said crankset. 

Cap'n Ron. . .

[ribbert]

I have a Miller Matic 35 and I would do that as a last resort. Not being a professional welder  (I have been "farm" welding for over 30 years) I have to say one of the things I really hate is over head welding.

George

George, if you have been "farm" welding for 30 years you are more than qualified, and you own a mig. You know how much heat they put into something and how quickly. I would be surprised if you needed more than a couple of tacks. You are not welding overhead as such, you are just getting heat into it.
I wouldn't worry about the heat going into the frame.

Do you have an auto darkening helmet? (for the welder, not the bike)

Noel

[movenon]

No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  .
I still don't like overhead work with a welder... It is just something I resist.   

In the discussion of the head bearings. In reference to the TQ of 2.2 ft lb's. I made a tool to do this and have a TQ wrench capable of the low TQ setting, but I have been thinking about options for others that do not have the same tool.

Been looking for a cheap ring nut wrench with the idea of roughly copying the pivot point of the Yamaha tool (est. about 2 - 2 1/2 inch's from the nut center) at that point drill a hole and (don't laugh), use a digital fish scale (cheap on e bay) to pull 2.2 Lbs ?

Always thinking, sometimes those thoughts slip out into my fingers.....
George

[ribbert]

No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  .

George

George, I can't believe this. The only possible reason I can think of is you have never used one. I now understand your fear of welding the race to the frame! I spent 20 years welding everything within a 6" radius of the job until I got one. I got it when they were fairly new and it cost $240. They are now very affordable.

Go and buy one tomorrow and you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago. Waiting for the current one to break is too long.

This will improve your welding more than going from stick to mig.

The difference is night and day.

Noel

[movenon]

No, my helmet is old fashion... I know, the auto darkening ones work great I just never have bothered to get one. When my current helmet breaks I will get in this century  .

George

George, I can't believe this. The only possible reason I can think of is you have never used one. I now understand your fear of welding the race to the frame! I spent 20 years welding everything within a 6" radius of the job until I got one. I got it when they were fairly new and it cost $240. They are now very affordable.

Go and buy one tomorrow and you will wonder why you didn't do it years ago. Waiting for the current one to break is too long.

This will improve your welding more than going from stick to mig.

The difference is night and day.

Noel

OK, you got me looking ....  
This one is on sale for 39.99  http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-flame-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-91214.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzI0NDMyNjMiLCJza3UiOiI5MTIxNCIsImlzIjoiMzkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMjI5NiJ9%0D%0A

George

[Travis398]

This one is only $29.99 with free shipping, You can get them cheaper if play the bidding game. I got one for $16 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frree-ship-WELDING-HELMET-AUTO-DARKENING-ROD-STICK-MIG-TIG-ARC-Mask-1000-AE-/130979139757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7ef710ad&vxp=mtr