Your dad only turns 80 once...

[ribbert]

I really wanted to write the report "live" while I was on the trip and thought quite a bit about how best to do that.  With the full rebuild (another write-up?), crazy amount of prep for the trip and shaking out some issues on the bike, I never got around to it.

Cap'n Ron. . .

My brother had the luxury of no bike prep and was able to settle on a good way to do this. He took his laptop and set up a blog. He did his write ups and photos and posted nightly while things were fresh in his mind and no detail was lost. Some of that detail being what made it interesting.
It also allowed people to comment which only added to the entertaining read and we could "join" in the ride in real time.

Noel

[Capn Ron]

Forth Leg, Day 14: Barrie, ON to Tobermory, ON (240 km/150 miles)

So, I've just completed a tour of the major cities along the St Lawrence River...Quebec City, Montreal, Ottawa and Toronto.  This was primarily the reason I rode up into Canada and feel I have a basic understanding of each of those places.  Now what to do??   I had lots of choices at this point.  I could just pop back down into the states and head for home...or I could go ride up and over the Great Lakes!  Sounding like fun, that's what I decided to do!  Now, being in Barrie, ON, the sensible person would have just headed north like this:



The other option would be to head over to the Bruce Peninsula and take a ferry across Lake Huron.



Any guesses?  I thought, "At this point, what's ONE more ferry ride?" and headed to the ferry terminal at Tobermory!  This was my ride for the day:



Once I got within an hour or so of a destination, I would start calling a few hotels to secure a room for the night.  I called three places in Tobermory and I was quoted $150/night!!!  I asked if there was something going on in town and was told there was an annual car show and everything was pretty well booked.  Yikes!  I was committed at this point, so I looked up some camping options and found the Tamarack campground just before Tobermory for around $24.  When I was checking in for a campsite assignment, the girl at the counter asked me, "Well, are you going to hike out to the Grotto?"  I had a confused look on my face and some other campers jumped in and said I HAVE to go see the Grotto!  Okay...I guess I'm going for a hike!

I set up my tent and then started heading down the trail.  I was hiking along the shoreline of Cyprus Lake:



Just beautiful!  The trail went on for a couple of miles through some creepy looking forests:



After a while, I was rewarded with this view:



This is the beach at "The Grotto" on Lake Huron and it was a bit surreal.  There were huge caves to go climbing down into:



With some of the clearest blue/green water I had ever seen!



I hiked all along the cliffs and it was easy to find a place all to yourself where you could imagine there wasn't anyone else within miles:



I sat there with my camera looking out over Lake Huron and the islands in the distance.  Just incredible!



I was a bit hungry, so I hiked back to my campsite and jumped on the FJ to head into Tobermory.  I found a restaurant with a rooftop bar that had live music in the form of a dude on a guitar:



I sang along as he played some Johnny Cash and had a nice meal:



That wine glass sure looks empty!   

I hung out there for a couple of hours watching the activities in the small town and conversing with some of the locals.  Very enjoyable!

I rode back to the campground and took a quick hike down to Cyprus Lake for a sunset:



Another great day in Canada, but this seems to be the norm!  I have to catch a ferry in the morning so I'm turning in.  Who knows what tomorrow will bring?

Cap'n Ron. . .

[fj johnnie]

 Excellent report Cap'n. I find it most interesting that you ended up at the Grotto. I too have been. It is a beautiful spot to see and worth the hike. I live  in the Niagara area and most people here have never heard of it!!! ( within 200 K )
I believe Neil Young once said " I have travelled down the middle of the road, but quickly headed for the ditch. The people there are much more interesting". You are doing an excellent job of finding the things that aren't in the middle of the road. Keep it up!

[Capn Ron]

Forth Leg, Day 15: Tobermory, ON to Sault Ste Marie, ON (450 km/280 miles)

I enjoyed my stay on the peninsula, but it was time to go see what the rest of Canada was all about!  I broke camp, got the FJ packed up and was on the road!  My trip today looked like this:



I arrived at the ferry terminal in plenty of time so I had a nice sit-down breakfast at a local diner.  There's almost always some sort of food on the longer ferry crossings, but it's nothing to write home about.  "Dear Mom, I had the most wonderful pre-made turkey sandwich in a triangular shaped plastic shrink-pack!"  Can't see it happening.  

Motorcycles are filtered to the front of the line when getting on a ferry.  We're the first on and the first off and take up spaces that are usually too small for cars.  This ferry only provided rope to tie the bike down.  Even though it was just a lake crossing, I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with the lines and checking the bike for stability.  I used double trucker's hitch knots to compress the front suspension a bit and keep things nice and tight.  My dad calls this knot, "The Flying Dutchman" and I find a lot of uses for it!  Here I am all secured up in the bow:



It was a little overcast, but not too bad.  I'm hoping it clears up!



Lake Huron was pretty calm as we left the peninsula and I wandered around the deck taking in the view and taking some pictures.



This was pretty cool...growing up in New York, I had only experienced Lake Erie and here I was on my motorcycle, on a ferry and ON Lake Huron!  I knew that the great lakes could get rough from all the stories I've heard over the years and that Gordon Lightfoot song.  Sure enough, the chop started to build:



Once we got away from the protection of the islands, we got into some pretty good swells and the ship was doing some nice steady rolling.  I've been in much rougher seas in sailboats, but didn't have a motorcycle tied down with not much more than twine to be concerned about.  I head a loud bang and headed below decks to check on my precious cargo:



It was fine and the lines were still secure.  Turns out the steel plates on the bow of the ship were buckling under the stress of the swells...every once in a while, it would make a loud bang as it popped in and back out.  I had a nice chat with some folks who had a house on the island.  I was telling them about life on a motorcycle and they were telling me about life on an island.

I was the first bike off the ferry and onto the island...I figured I should top off the tank and spent a few minutes at the gas startion before getting on my way.  As I was filling my tank, the other motorcycles that were on the ferry flew by on their way to the bridge to the north.  When I caught up to them, they were ALL pulled over for speeding!!!  Luck and timing just seem to find me all on their own!  

I set Sault Ste Marie as my destination for the day.  I was told that "Sault" was pronounced like "Sue"...now I'm not going to sound like such a tourist!  I'm watching the weather closely as storms seemed to be all over between Canada and south of the U.S. border.  I wanted to hit the border crossing towns so if I had to duck south back into the states to avoid a storm, I had that option.  So far today, weather wasn't a problem!  I saw these critters on the shore of the lake taking in the sunshine!:



I took a few detours to explore bits of Lake Huron...I couldn't believe how blue that lake is!  Just beautiful!



I had a nice dinner at a very small family restaurant near the lake.  I just kept to myself as I ate and checked my email.  My server asked if that was my motorcycle out front and where I was from.  I told her that I rode from California and she started tapping other patrons on the shoulder..."This guy rode his motorcycle from CALIFORNIA!!!"  There weren't many people in the place...maybe twenty all together...but quickly, they were all firing questions at me!  "How long did that take you?"  "How many miles a day do you ride?"  "What have you seen?"  It occurred to me that before I walked in, most of those people knew each other in some way.  Over a plate of fried chicken, I got to know them a little bit too.

I found a motel in Sualt Ste Marie for the night.  I turned in early...tomorrow's weather doesn't look good and I'd like to knock out some miles.  Dodging the rain is going to slow me down a bit, but I'm up for it!

Cap'n Ron. . .

[CanDman]

Gordon Lightfoot - Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald




Fuck Ron...I want to punch you in the head !!!! Tobermory ?? Gotto??? that's Goddo with a D.......... are you kidding me??you are doing the  low ways and the no ways........I can't believe you did Tobermory and Gotto (Goddo)......

GODDO - Sweet Thing ....you better have a good So Cal itinerary ready for me...cause I ain't coming for the fowl.......quack quack....

[Capn Ron]

Excellent report Cap'n. I find it most interesting that you ended up at the Grotto. I too have been. It is a beautiful spot to see and worth the hike. I live in the Niagara area and most people here have never heard of it!!! ( within 200 K )
I believe Neil Young once said " I have travelled down the middle of the road, but quickly headed for the ditch. The people there are much more interesting". You are doing an excellent job of finding the things that aren't in the middle of the road. Keep it up!

Thanks Johnnie!

I truly believe that there is more to be found in the less obvious places.  Frank Bama once said, "The best navigators are not quite sure where they're going until they get there!"  I set out each morning with that in mind!

The Grotto was a true surprise as was Tobermory.  There is so much to experience out there!

Cap'n Ron. . .

[CanDman]

Let me rephrase my last post (was a bit buzzed last night  ) I was so floored as I am with every post how you seem to visit all the coolest spots.... I remember from my youth.... I went to camp over the summer we would go on one weeks canoe trips throughout central Ontario and Tobermory , Killarney and the Magnetawan River...were places I have seen.....I just can't believe how many places you and I have experienced (at different times of course) but I am simply amazed.
Punching you is only a silly way of expressing my overwhelming enthusiasm....        

[Capn Ron]

Forth Leg, Day 16: Sault Ste Marie, ON to Thunder Bay, ON (725 km/450 miles)

The weather was off and on today...Had some great sessions of riding in perfect sunshine...and then hard downpours!  It was difficult to figure out what gear to put on and at exactly what time.  If I was heading into some weather, I'd swap my gloves out for the better insulated, "waterproof" ones...and then they would get soaked through.  When the sun came out, I'd use the gauntlet Velcro to attach them to the rack on my Givi topcase to let them flap in the wind to dry them out.  With the crazy weather, I must have repeated this five or six times today!

I rode north from Sault Ste Marie on my way to Thunder Bay:



After spending some time on Lake Huron yesterday, I was excited to see Lake Superior.  Apparently it's the lake that thought it was better than all the other lakes!  Had some sort of complex, but I can't remember what it's called...  

I rode along the eastern shore of Lake Superior on my way up to Wawa, ON  



I pulled into Wawa and found a Subway to grab some lunch.  I was happy to get out of the rain...for a short while anyway.  I ordered my usual:  6" BMT on wheat, provalone, lettuce, tomato, pickles, salt and pepper and some oil.  Even though I said I was eating there, she put my sandwich in a to-go bag.  I never know how to feel about that.  I clearly stated that I wanted to eat it there, but they packed it as if to say, "yeah...no...we'd rather you left, thanks."  I sat down and had my lunch.  While I was tidying up to leave, I noticed the very specific size and shape of a Subway to-go bag.  Hey...wait a minute...  I went up to the counter and asked the girl if I could have a few more of those bags.  Turns out they are about foot-shaped and I proceded to don them between my socks and my leather Timberland boots.  I have SOLVED the wet foot issue!  I wish I had thought of this sooner!

Going up over the north side of Lake Superior was quite nice.  There's a significant altitude gain there and the scenery changed from forest and coastline to rocky and steep.  I even rode up into the clouds and the fog made everything seem very surreal.  It was a welcome change.

Shortly before I arrived in Thunder Bay, I saw a sign for a waterfall down some road.  Of course, I had to go check it out...The road quickly turned to dirt/gravel and I pressed on.  The waterfall was...just okay...I probably wouldn't take a motorcycle down that road again!  When I got back on the FJ to leave, this grouse was blocking my way!



She just kept walking back and forth in front of my path as if to say, "None shall pass!!!"  I was entertained enough to take another picture:



She probably had some young ones she was protecting.  I then headed into Thunder Bay...again...a town on the U.S./Canadian border just in case I had to duck south to avoid weather.  I rode the FJ down onto a dock that supported a seaplane operation.  I found this to be pretty cool.



They had an entire yard with seaplanes that I suppose were deployed depending on the specific task they were hired to do.



I found a great little efficiency apartment for the night that is typically rented out to students when college is in session.  I met the owner who took the place over from his mother and father who started it as a motel back in the 1950's.  There were lots of pictures from the early days as an homage to his parents.  I felt like I was staying with family.

I got in a lot of miles today and I feel good about that.  Not sure if I'll stay in Canada or not due to all the rain I've been dealing with.  By the end of this trip, I'd really like to be able to claim I rode Canada from Nova Scotia to Vancouver Island, but my fingers are getting pruney!  I'll take a look at the weather patterns in the morning and determine a coarse of action.

A very wet but scenic day today...Well looking forward to what tomorrow brings!

Cap'n Ron. . .

[Capn Ron]

Forth Leg, Day 17: Thunder Bay, ON to Kenora, ON (563 km/350 miles)

Today, I slept in a bit...all the rain yesterday wore me out!  Looks like I'm in for more of that routine, so I headed due west towards Fort Frances/International Falls.  Again, sticking close to the U.S. border to keep my riding options open depending on the weather.  When I got to the border crossing town, there was a huge storm coming in from the south west of me so I hooked a hard right and headed due north!  This was my ride today:



I was very happy to still be in Canada and my route took me through an area known as "Lake of the Woods."  WOW!  I thought there were a lot of lakes a few days ago...just take a look at this!  



There were lakes everywhere and absolutely beautiful!  There was a lot of sport fishing going on and with many water-runways at their disposal, this is the very cool form of transport for the fisherman:



That's a 1958 de Havilland DHC-3 Otter!  And I'm excited my 21 year-old motorcycle is still running!  

It was docked right behind this BEAUTY!!!



This is a 1953 (!!!) Beechcraft 18, C-45H.  It was a former USAF plane (C-45G) that was converted to hydro service (thus the "H" designation).  Just look at the polish on this one!  (Leon, Pat...are you paying attention?)  



I'm a bit of a plane nut:



I really wanted to go up in that Beech seaplane, but I need to beat the incoming storm!  I was having pretty good luck with dodging the rain, but it's still a lot of stress for a guy who normally rides in SoCal!

I made my way up to Kenora and had a nice fresh fish dinner in town...I am now very used to the Canadian accents and mannerisms.  The "Yah, that's true, eh?"  Well, my server came up to my table and said, "Howdy, y'all...are ya fixin to get some supper?"  Struck me as odd, but as we talked, I found out she was from Arkansas and we had a nice chat about the states.

I found a VERY old motel just west of town for the night.  It was called Gayles Motel...more like a tiny cabin really:



This place definitely did not meet my admittedly low standards!  It was safe and inexpensive and I got a good night's sleep.  Turns out that when you close your eyes, you can imagine you're staying at the Ritz!  

Cap'n Ron. . .

[Capn Ron]

Forth Leg, Day 18: Kenora, ON to Brandon, Manitoba (539 km/335 miles)

I've been in Canada for more than two weeks now and am happily clicking off the (wet) miles.  It's nice getting to know a place by visiting the sights and talking to the people.  While I've been riding some of the longer stretches, I kept repeating in my head the provinces from east to west:  Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Quebec, Ontario...and today I will cross over into Manitoba!  I took a long-view of the rest of Canada and decided that I'd like to ride a bit to the north and go see Edmonton in a few days.  Something like this:



I set out to ride north of Winnipeg, then west just beneath Lake Manitoba and pick up the 16 towards Edmonton.  That worked for the first part of the day, but I found myself dodging heavy rain again.  When I got to Winnipeg, the smart choice was to avoid storms coming in from the north west, so I headed to Brandon instead.  My day's ride looked like this:



Nothing too exciting and I managed to not get too wet.  I found a hotel in Brandon and settled in for the night.  I'll take a look at my options tomorrow for a possible run to Edmonton.

Cap'n Ron. . .

[Capn Ron]

Forth Leg, Day 19: Brandon, Manitoba to Regina, SK (468 km/290 miles)

I woke up in Brandon, Manitoba determined to eventually get to Edmonton.  I rode due north to the 16 and I was on my way.  I knew I'd run into some weather, but hey, I've been wet before.  I worked my way as far along the 16 as Yorkton and I couldn't take it any longer.  I was battling 40 knot winds and VERY heavy rain.   It was a challenge just to keep the bike upright as the winds were doing their best to knock me over!!  Okay, I know when to stop being stubborn and just give up.  I looked at the radar and it seemed like I could snake my way through this weather if I headed south west.  My day's ride looked like this:



As I rode, the weather kept pushing me farther south and, by the end of the day, I ended up deep in Regina!

Josh Gardner live on the Adam Carolla Show "I Love Regina"

Yep...I love Regina!

When I pulled into the city, It started to freakin POUR!!!  I pulled under the protection of a very nice hotel's reception area to get out of the rain.  I was almost a broken man.  There is no way I wanted to ride out in that again...It was dark, I was soaked to the bone...shivering cold...and was longing for the sunshine of home.

I pulled up the nearby hotels in my navigation app and made some phone calls.  "Yes, I'm checking on a room rate and availability for this evening?"  "We're booked solid."  Okay...that's weird.  Next hotel?  Same answer.  And the next...and the next.  Well, I'm actually AT a hotel, but I can't even imagine how much this place must cost!!  I went inside, dripping all over their nice marble flooring.  "What are the chances you have a room available?"  "We're booked...and so is everyone else in town...Don't you know that this is the weekend of the Western Canadian Farm Progress Show?  We've been booked for a year!"  She said it with such conviction and a ferve in her voice...as if she was saying, "Don't you know that CHRIST himself is in town??!!"  

Ug.  I gave her a look that must have said, "Please don't make me go back out in the rain!"   She told me to grab a seat in the lobby and she'd make some phone calls.  The assistant manager got me a glass of red wine, some hot hors d'œuvres and a towel.  The manager came back after about 15 minutes and said she found a room for me!!  It was in THAT hotel and they saved it for special circumstances.  OH, YES!   Wait, how much is this going to cost???  She said she'd work out the lowest corporate rate for me and it was right at $100.  Sold!  This place was normally around $180/night!  Having contemplated pitching my tent in a muddy field somewhere, this is what I ended up with:



I almost felt guilty sleeping in that bed!  The hotel also had a laundry room and I did a full wash of all my clothes...Perfect!  Now I have even MORE reason to love Regina!  

Cap'n Ron. . .

[jscgdunn]

Ron,
Looks like an awesome trip!  I grew up south of Brandon and now live west of Calgary near Bragg Creek....going to be interested in seeing how close you came to riding by my place!

Jeff

[Bminder]

We shoulda just invaded Canada and annexed it.
Would only have taken a couple days, eh?

[FJmonkey]

We shoulda just invaded Canada and annexed it.
Would only have taken a couple days, eh?

Hollywood already did that.

http://www.imdb.com/rg/em_share/title_web/title/tt0109370

[jscgdunn]

We shoulda just invaded Canada and annexed it.
Would only have taken a couple days, eh?

Uh....actually you tried...and were humiliated.  (and yes I have the hook in my  mouth...pull harder!) 
http://www.lutins.org/1812.html

Jeff