Electrical maintenance

[keand3]

I have mention earlier in an another thread of my  high and low beam issue. For a while there I tought i manage to fix it cause of some poor connections. But no.

Been cleaning every connector on the front part of the bike when i thought i had fixt it. But today it started again.

The low beam came and went just as it pleased. Just like my salary 

Since i have ruled out the wiring and bulb,  the remaining part left is the handlebar light switch itself.
I know i could open it up and re soldering, but will it really last?
I am considering replacing the whole thing, the question is with what? An used OME light switch or a new universal one?

You've got any suggestions?

Cheers

[rktmanfj]

It may not need replacement.   

Try opening it up... it may just be dirty in there.

[keand3]

It may not need replacement.   

Try opening it up... it may just be dirty in there.

Thats what i thought too.. But one of the screws is completely torn to piceses and the housing wont separate.  And im afraid to damage the housing when drilling it out..

[rktmanfj]

Thats what i thought too.. But one of the screws is completely torn to piceses and the housing wont separate.  And im afraid to damage the housing when drilling it out..

If you can use a center punch on it and a reverse twist drill in a drill press, it will probably come out pretty easily as soon as the drill gets a bite.

[keand3]

Thanks for the tip. Will give it a go to morrow..

[movenon]

I guess there is not much lost by trying to get that screw out. I am going to try to replace all my switch screws with allen heads. Those crappy Japanese phillip's head screws should go in the trash IMO... Mine are in good shape now but I have had problems with them in the past. 
George

[RichBaker]

It's not so much the screws quality, as it is most people use the wrong driver..... The screws are JIS(Jap. Industrial Spec.) and are different than standard Philips head. Grinding the tip of a PH driver a little usually allows it to work well with JIS screws. It doesn't take much.... just enough for ths driver to seat in the cross.

[movenon]

It's not so much the screws quality, as it is most people use the wrong driver..... The screws are JIS(Jap. Industrial Spec.) and are different than standard Philips head. Grinding the tip of a PH driver a little usually allows it to work well with JIS screws. It doesn't take much.... just enough for ths driver to seat in the cross.

I have a couple of modified drivers and I agree they get buggered up using the wrong tool. I am still going to allen heads.  Another thing that bugs me is to take them out or adjust them you are working upside down. The allen heads would be easier. JIS screws need to be recycled 

George

[ribbert]

It's not so much the screws quality, as it is most people use the wrong driver..... The screws are JIS(Jap. Industrial Spec.) and are different than standard Philips head. Grinding the tip of a PH driver a little usually allows it to work well with JIS screws. It doesn't take much.... just enough for ths driver to seat in the cross.

In addition to Rich's excellent suggestion, the following also work.

A few sharp belts with a hammer on a steel shaft PH screwdriver while pushing down hard and twisting works well if they are not too far gone. (like a manual hammer driver, but this works)

If the cross is spread or twisted, as opposed to chewed out, a belt with a hammer will close up the slots. The hammer blow also has the effect of freeing the thread. Then try again with the screwy.

A good quality screw driver is a must. Some brands are unfortunately too pointy even when new. I regularly throw my PH2 in the bin and replace it. DO NOT use a cheap or worn one.

Being able to deliver a sharp dead blow to the screw head without springiness is the key to loosening it.

Knowing WHEN to stop if what you a doing is not working, the more you trash it the harder it gets.

Small vice grips will grip the screw heads, especially the carby screws.

Finally, if all else fails, cut a slot with the Dremel and use a big flat blade screw driver.(At last, a use for the Dremel I agree with)

These screws are small, you don't need THAT much force to get them started, just good purchase to crack them.

IMHO, hammer drivers are the most useless tool ever invented for removing screws.

When finally removed, replace them with Allen heads and do not overtighten with this new found leverage. They are small screws going into ally.

Having finally removed it, resist the temptation to put it back in, "just for now" but not over tighten it. It will tighten itself up and present you with the same problems next time.

The success of these procedures is relative to feel and experience and knowing when to use which one. I don't recall ever meeting a screw that wouldn't come out with one, or a combination of the above.

Noel

[FJ_Hooligan]

For Phillips screws with stripped heads I've had good success using a sharp punch and a hammer to break them loose.

I also recently disassembled a new set of carbs using a Ryobi electric impact screwdriver that I bought from Home Depot.  It looks like a drill, but seem to operate like an air impact wrench.  Very effective at breaking the screws loose.

[keand3]

Thanks guys. Will try to get the screw out today and see how things looks inside of the switch..
It just so annoying knowing that only my high beam works, and driving without a low beam, or driving lights if you like, will only get me fined and constsntly pulled over...

[ribbert]

I also recently disassembled a new set of carbs using a Ryobi electric impact screwdriver

Those things are the bees knees. But I am reluctant to recommend anything with its own power source. They are a great tool but also have the capacity to stuff up the screw in a nano second if unfamiliar with them.

Noel

[RichBaker]

I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw.  Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.

[rktmanfj]

I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw.  Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.

+1

[ribbert]

I've had good luck with impact (hammer) drivers, very rarely do bugger up the screw.  Usually I don't even have to smack it with the hammer..... Even when a regular driver won't budge it.

A hammer driver you don't hit with a hammer IS a regular driver.

Noel