Steering Head bearings

[movenon]

Today I removed the lower steering head race and bearing... Yea, check that off the list of things I have done to an FJ....

For reference the upper steering head bearing is a KOYO......32005JR........Timkin 32005X
The lower steering head bearing is a KOYO ........................32006 JR with a bottom seal.

George

[markmartin]

I'm going to be doing the same. I've ordered bearings from RPM and the bearing removal driver. I've read that the bottom race is difficult to remove.   How did it go for you?  Can you offer any advise?

[oldktmdude]

I'm going to be doing the same. I've ordered bearings from RPM and the bearing removal driver. I've read that the bottom race is difficult to remove.   How did it go for you?  Can you offer any advise?

I changed mine about three weeks ago. I ran a weld around the inside of the cup and it practically fell out on it's own. Don't try this if you are not competent with a welder!    Pete.

[scouser]

I'm going to be doing the same. I've ordered bearings from RPM and the bearing removal driver. I've read that the bottom race is difficult to remove.   How did it go for you?  Can you offer any advise?

I changed mine about three weeks ago. I ran a weld around the inside of the cup and it practically fell out on it's own. Don't try this if you are not competent with a welder!    Pete.

After trying quite a few times with different punch types, (some home machine made) I used a dremil to cut through most of mine first, then applied heat. It still wasn't easy but managed to get it out. I may have said a few bad words in the process.

[markmartin]

Don't try this if you are not competent with a welder!    Pete.

OK thanks, I won't be trying that.  :-)

I used a dremil to cut through most of mine first, then applied heat. It still wasn't easy but managed to get it out.

I've read about this method being used by other members.  I get the feeling this is what I'm going to end up doing as I do have a dremel.   I've never replaced stem bearings, so don't really know what to expect.

I may have said a few bad words in the process.

I see that you reside in Canada. I grew up in a border town on the US/Canada line.  I can swear quite well in both languages. Which one worked the best for you?

[Arnie]

The seal you need is from a '79 Honda GL1000  Part No. 53214-371-010

Arnie

[movenon]

I'm going to be doing the same. I've ordered bearings from RPM and the bearing removal driver. I've read that the bottom race is difficult to remove.   How did it go for you?  Can you offer any advise?

Top race comes out easy with a drift or punch etc.

The bottom... well, there is no lip to get a drift, punch or bearing removal tool on to. I modified a tool to attempt to get a bite on it.  No joy there, I then went to heating the bottom of the steering head up with a upholstery heat gun as to not put to much heat on the steering head and then froze the bearing  (used canned air, turned upside down). It got frosty/ice cold and then tried to work on it. No good there. There just isn't any lip to get a bite on it. Frustrating.

I have a Miller Matic wire feed but I am not a "certified" welder if you know what I mean. Yes I can weld, but I hate overhead welding and didn't want to put that much heat in the head area and then there is the chance of not getting the bead where you want it. It happens...  As a last resort I would do it.

I got the dremmel out and did a diagonal cut on the race. I made 2 cuts one in front and one in back. Wasn't to bad. You just need to lay on your back and go to work. Wear glasses.. You will break a few cut off disks and you will cut very slightly into the inside of the steering head at the the top of the race. No problem there. Just take your time. Seemed to go slow at first but after the 3rd or 4th disk I was making good headway. I then took a small chisel and drove under the race and half of it broke and rotated out. The other half came out easy. Only took me 15 or 20 minutes. After that I used a small drum sander on the dremmel to clean up the are where I chiseled out the race (very small dress up). It is not bad if you take your time at it. Its not going to come out easy....... IMO don't take on the project if you want to go riding the next day. Do it when you have some time. Excluding the engine (never been deep inside one), this project is the IMO the most difficult thing do to on the FJ.

I did the same for the bearing on the stem. As a note, if you take the clamp off the forks and take it up to a machine shop they can press out the stem which will drag the bearing off probably for a very cheap price. Or do it your self if you know someone with a press.

Another tip:  On reassembly if you are doing it by yourself slip out the forks and install the stem/triple clamp assembly, snug things up and then slip the forks and or complete front end back on. This is so you you will not damage the lower bearing trying to deal with the whole front end as a unit (forks, wheel, brakes etc) by yourself.  If you insist on putting it back together as a unit then have someone help you to slip in and hold the front end up while you put a nut on the top.  This is from the voice of experience....     Check to make sure you have smooth rotation with no rough, loose spots, notches or noises etc. with the top nut snugged up.

Then TQ and adjust the head bearing etc.. Should have a dust cover, nut (tq 2.2 lb) / rubber washer ,top nut and a fingered lock washer. The top nut I think is just finger tight / snug.  Don't forget the rubber washer. Might be nice to install a new one during the rebuild. Yamaha put it there for a reason.  Along with helping to maintain the TQ if you leave it out it also might make the steering lock pins not align well with the holes in the steering head. Then recheck for smooth rotation.

That's my experience and advise with head bearings and races. Have fun   .
George

[movenon]

The seal you need is from a '79 Honda GL1000  Part No. 53214-371-010

Arnie

Thanks Arnie that's good info.
George

[markmartin]

The seal you need is from a '79 Honda GL1000  Part No. 53214-371-010

Arnie

Thanks Arnie that's good info.
George

Thanks Arnie.  I've ordered the FJ Steering Head Bearing/Seal Kit from RPM. "This kit includes the upper & lower bearing and races as well as the lower seal to protect from road debris & moisture."
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHeadBearingKit


Are there any other parts that I will need ?   I'm assuming the GL1000 seal you speak of is included in the kit I am purchasing from RPM?  

[markmartin]

George, thanks for the information, it will help considerably and I will refer to it as I plod along. 

The end of our riding season is approaching.  I'll heed your advice as it pertains to the allotted time allowed to complete this repair.  I'd like to get it done after the riding season, but before snow flies so I can take it for a ride and check out my work.  That's the plan anyway. 

[racerrad8]

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHeadBearingKit


Are there any other parts that I will need ?   I'm assuming the GL1000 seal you speak of is included in the kit I am purchasing from RPM?  

Mark,

You will not need anything else, I offer a complete kit so you do not have to source out bearings and seals separately.

Also, when you get the lower race out, cut to reliefs into the flange so that the next time the bearing needs to be changed you can use a punch, that is what I do on all of them I work on here.

Randy - RPM

[markmartin]

You will not need anything else, I offer a complete kit so you do not have to source out bearings and seals separately.  >>snip<<

Randy - RPM

I figured as much but wanted to make sure.  Once again, it's a pleasure doing business with you Randy. Being able to easily get the right parts for the job makes all of this doable especially for the amateur/hobbyist mechanics like myself.  Couple this with the advise from the group and even us blind pigs can find the acorns.

[movenon]

George, thanks for the information, it will help considerably and I will refer to it as I plod along.  

The end of our riding season is approaching.  I'll heed your advice as it pertains to the allotted time allowed to complete this repair.  I'd like to get it done after the riding season, but before snow flies so I can take it for a ride and check out my work.  That's the plan anyway.  

That's probably the best way to approach it.   I would order a new rubber washer just because.. They are cheap. I think it is Yamaha part "90202-26142-00 WASHER,PLATE". Yours might be in good condition. Mine was crushed and deteriorated a little.

There is a tool made by Park that Randy has in stock that MIGHT help with removing the lower race. I would talk with Randy first. It is used to remove crank bearing races in bicycles. My lower bearing was the same diameter as the head ID, there was about a 1/16 gap between the bottom of the cut in the head and the race. Not much to expand out into. Randy probably has more insite to that. I just got in a "get-er done mode".

George

[markmartin]

Thanks George, the rubber washer is in pretty good shape as I remember as I had it off when I was checking and adjusting my stem tightness earlier this summer.

I did buy the remover from Randy.  Anything to make it easier.

Mark M

[Capn Ron]

Top race comes out easy with a drift or punch etc.

I got the dremmel out and did a diagonal cut on the race. I made 2 cuts one in front and one in back. Wasn't to bad. You just need to lay on your back and go to work. with a press.

George

George is right on the money here...  There isn't much (any) relief in the seat for that bottom race...certainly not enough to get the edge of a tool to grip.  I had complete access to the frame so I didn't have to work upside down and about everything I thought of wasn't working (I even own a park bicycle headset race removal tool).  I broke out the trusty Dremel!  I cut a diagonal slot on two opposite sides of the race...not quite all the way through (didn't nick the frame).  I then put a chisel in the cut I just made and gently tapped with a light hammer.  Three hits and POP!!  The race cracked and it fell out.

About to pull the headset:



Pressing the new races into the frame:



Cap'n Ron. . .