85 fj1100 Drive Chain Replacement

[jdsjds]

I'm sure it's on here somewhere but for the life of me i (and google) can't find it, so i apologize in advance.

Is there a write up on replacing the chain and sprockets on the 85 fj1100? tried winging it and got as far as attempting, and failing, at removing the front sprocket cover. appreciate it in advance.

[movenon]

I'm sure it's on here somewhere but for the life of me i (and google) can't find it, so i apologize in advance.

Is there a write up on replacing the chain and sprockets on the 85 fj1100? tried winging it and got as far as attempting, and failing, at removing the front sprocket cover. appreciate it in advance.

Hello ! You have to remove all the bolts on the cover and the clutch slave. Then you can get access to the front sprocket. DO NOT start the engine after you remove the clutch slave.... Reread the last sentence.   Don't ask, just don't do it. 
What chain do you want to install in it ?  Are you going to rivet it or use a clip ?

George

[jdsjds]

so the slave is one of the black things i assume? haha forgive my complete ignorance, i'm trying to get this knowledge by doing the work myself. i promise not to start the bike! should i be worried about anything leaking or dripping?

[movenon]

so the slave is one of the black things i assume? haha forgive my complete ignorance, i'm trying to get this knowledge by doing the work myself. i promise not to start the bike! should i be worried about anything leaking or dripping?

Where are you located,  perhaps a member could give you a hand ? Yes it is one of the "black things".. You do not have to unhook the clutch line, just unbolt the slave and let it hang out of the way. If you are careful there will be no leakage but area will probably be dirty and need to be cleaned up. So you will have a little mess in the area.
From the sounds of it you should try to team up with someone that has done this before. A bike shop probably will not charge that much to install a chain.
You mentioned something about removing the sprocket. Are you putting a new one on ? Is your chain a rivet or clip link ? What tools do you have to work with ?
George

[jdsjds]

oh sorry i forgot to answer the other questions. i got a RK xw ring 110 chain. 17 and 42 sprockets and the chain has both clip and rivets, i'll probably go with the clip though. as for the shops, it's not about the money, i just learn better from doing things myself. if someone else is doing it for me my instinct is to zone out or lose focus. i'm willing to risk it. i've got a decent amount of sockets and stuff at my disposal as well as a torque wrench, i'm just not very well versed in the fj and didn't want to start yanking things without knowing. Oh well, i'm willing to risk it, i'll let you know how it goes and i appreciate your help/concern,

[ELIMINATOR]

Others will no doubt agree with me on this. Although using the clip is the easy option, on an engine with this much power, it would not be safe.I am surprised that a clip link was supplied, which makes me wonder if the chain is suitable? Others with more knowledge, will no doubt be along shortly with wisdom.

[rktmanfj]

oh sorry i forgot to answer the other questions. i got a RK xw ring 110 chain. 17 and 42 sprockets and the chain has both clip and rivets, i'll probably go with the clip though. as for the shops, it's not about the money, i just learn better from doing things myself. if someone else is doing it for me my instinct is to zone out or lose focus. i'm willing to risk it. i've got a decent amount of sockets and stuff at my disposal as well as a torque wrench, i'm just not very well versed in the fj and didn't want to start yanking things without knowing. Oh well, i'm willing to risk it, i'll let you know how it goes and i appreciate your help/concern,

The two chains usually recommended by this group are DID ZVM and EK ZZZ.

If it's my bike, it's getting a rivet link.     I used a clip once on the FJ, unsuccessfully.

Fully understanding the desire to economize as much as possible, one thing you need to consider is the possible consequences of dicking up the job.  If that chain comes off and breaks your engine cases (and you survive the ordeal), your potential repair bill will likely exceed the value of the bike.

Be careful.

[Travis398]

Clip or Rivet is like asking what is the right kind of oil to use.....................my bike had a clip on it when I bought it.
When I replaced my chain I tossed the rivet master and bought a clip to replace it.
 

[FJmonkey]

I ran a clip master on my FJ for many years with no breaking/lost clip issues, some suggest to safety wire the clip if you chose to use one. I got tired of chains with stretched out spots, that just tells me what part of the chain will break when I am getting my Kookaloo on. I recently upgraded to the EK ZZZ chain and got a cheap chain tool to rivet the master on. Only 300 miles on the new chain so not much to tell on the durability, I am guessing it will out last all my last chains with all their miles added up.

[ribbert]

Clip or Rivet is like asking what is the right kind of oil to use.....................

Not really. You can choose pretty much any oil without catastrophic consequences.

I wouldn't have thought there was any argument on this. Clips fail, not often, but it's not a chance worth taking when you don't have to.

The chain comes with a rivet link, use it.

Anyone that has worked in the bike business, and some here with first hand experience, will have seen enough to not even contemplate the clip. Yeah it's more convenient if you don't have the tool, but I don't believe they make a roadside tool for smashed cases, if you lucky and that's all that happens.

Noel

[movenon]

oh sorry i forgot to answer the other questions. i got a RK xw ring 110 chain. 17 and 42 sprockets and the chain has both clip and rivets, i'll probably go with the clip though. as for the shops, it's not about the money, i just learn better from doing things myself. if someone else is doing it for me my instinct is to zone out or lose focus. i'm willing to risk it. i've got a decent amount of sockets and stuff at my disposal as well as a torque wrench, i'm just not very well versed in the fj and didn't want to start yanking things without knowing. Oh well, i'm willing to risk it, i'll let you know how it goes and i appreciate your help/concern,

Thanks for the information. The clip or rivet question is so we/I can tell you what tools you need. As for which is best, probably a rivet but I have used both. That's a personal decision. On the FJ, if the chain lets go it has a tendency to crack or break the case up by the front sprocket. And could put the physical hurt on you if it fails and locks up at speed. Not wanting to upset you or discourage you, just you need to know.

Here is a thread that might be interesting for you to read:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8663.0

Put the bike on the center stand. Recommend you have a service manual or a copy handy. Not needed but very nice to have......

Put it in neutral at this time. Leave it there.

On the left side undo the front part of the shifting linkage. One 10mm nut. Slide it off the shaft.

You will see 3 small bolts holding the side cover and 3 bolts holding on the clutch slave. Remove those. (when you reinstall the TQ for them is 7.2 foot lbs)
Pay attention to the bolt length's for reassembly. And do not over TQ those small bolts on assembly...

Do not unhook the hydraulic line from the clutch slave. Do not start the engine. If you do it will blow out the clutch rod and a ball bearing. And will probably blow oil out also. Also if you started the motor by habit you will pull the clutch lever in and make a mess of your clutch slave.

Do not touch the ignition switch or clutch level until you are done. Just trying to save you some grief here.

Remove the side cover. Clean all the crap/chain lube/sand/dirt etc from the sprocket area.

Now for the front sprocket. It is a 36 mm. You will need a 36mm socket (a 1 7/16" socket will work also) , 2X4 and a breaker bar. Put the 2x4 though the rear wheel spokes so when you turn the sprocket the wheel via the chain will lock up. Leave the transmission in neutral. To loosen, unbend the locking tabs on the sprocket with a screwdriver,  turn the sprocket to the left to loosen.

Do not put it into gear and try to hold the engine with your brake. It puts undue stress on the gears. Might end up braking something in the transmission.

Now a tip that can make things easier. If you take the 36mm or 1 7/16 " socket and look into the end of it you will see the first about 1/8' inside is tapered. The sprocket nut is thin so in order to get a better bite on it,  take the socket and grind the face down eliminating the taper. I used a disk sander and just jambed in the face grinding it down.

Remove your old chain. Small grinder makes quick work of this. Or if it is a clip, then remove it.

If you are going to put a new rear sprocket on then now is the time to remove your rear wheel and do so. Nice time to check / lube your rear bearings and check for play in your swing arm . In fact its not a bad time to re lube your swingarm and relay arm area.

Reinstall your rear wheel. Finger tighten the front sprocket back on. Install the new chain.

Now put the 2x4 back thought the rear wheel and use you 36mm / 1 7/16 socket to re-torque the front sprocket. Factory TQ is 61 ft lbs. I think I set mine at 65 ft lbs. Bend the locking tabs back over the sprocket.

Reinstall the sprocket cover and clutch slave unit (7.2 ft lbs). Hook the shifter linkage back up. Adjust the chain. Don't over tighten the chain. Test ride. If you hear a clicking or knocking sound your chain is to tight. Keep checking the chain until it is seated in.

That's about all I can remember about changing a chain. If you go with a rivet link Cycle Gear stores have a tool for about 40.00 that will work fine.

Perhaps someone in the San Diego area can give you a hand or check out the install for you.
Sorry about the long post but you ask  

George

[jdsjds]

awesome response george and the rest of the guys. I'll go with a rivet install and i got a chain breaker yesterday. i'll let you know how it goes, thanks for all the love, fellas.

[chiz]

Would love to know what happens if you start the engine withthe slave off.
Chiz

[Country Joe]

Would love to know what happens if you start the engine withthe slave off.
Chiz

No, you really don't. But if you just can't resist the temptation, make sure the cat is not in the shop.

Joe


     

[andyb]

^ Jeez, guys, just tell the poor man.

Starting the motor with the clutch slave off means that the pressurized oil galley that the pushrod sits in will cheerfully shoot the clutch pushrod out, followed by a fountain of oil.  Canonically, it shoots out and hits the cat, thus the strangeness when people talk about it.  I don't have a cat, so I shot myself in the calf when I learned about this.

I've seen clip links fail.  I've seen riveted links fail.  I've seen chains fail at places other than the master link.  Meh?  Chains can break, that's why you inspect and take care of them, but more to the point you buy good ones.  The ZZZ is a fabulous chain that can handle pretty much any abuse you throw at it.  If you run it crazy tight, it's strong enough that I'd worry about the output shaft more than the chain, actually.

I use a clip link with safety wire around it on one bike, and a riveted ZZZ on the other bike.  The ZZZ doesn't have a clip link available, which sucks.  The other bike has a spare clip link duct taped (and in the package) to the inside of the bodywork of the tailsection, so I can fix problems at the roadside if necessary.

A cheap, old, or poorly maintained chain will likely break at some point.  Mostly that's inconvenient, but it has the potential to get caught in the rear wheel, throwing the bike on the ground, costing you your leathers, helmet, and bodywork (or kill you depending on traffic).  It has the potential to get balled up around the countershaft, which will destroy the engine cases, costing you a new motor, unless it also coats the rear tire with oil and throws the bike down (or kill you, depending on traffic).  It has the potential to wrap around and whip up, destroying your left kidney, and unless there's emergency services within 90s from you, you'll bleed to death in very short order.

Buy a good chain, and ensure that it's installed correctly.  If that means taking it to a shop to absolutely ensure that it's done right because you don't have the tools, so be it.  It's cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time.