Started Install of Transpo Voltage Regulator, Then Found This...

[FJ1100mjk]

Hi:

I'm prepping my '85 for an upcoming high-mileage holiday weekend. Due to my voltmeter showing 14.9V above ~4K RPM, and not wanting to fry my new battery I just purchased, I decided to do the Transpo IB301A voltage regulator upgrade. Read through the reference materials for its install, and it look straight forward. After I removed the generator cover, I found that one of the four bare leads (the one closest to the red insulated wire) has appeared to have gotten hot, and has melted/broken from its solder tab.



Has anyone seen this before? Is it a symptom of some other issue that needs to be addressed, or can the bare lead simply be re-soldered to its tab, then install the new voltage regulator, and all's good?

For information purposes, I had previously replaced the two-pin connector between the main harness and two (red and brown) generator's wires (old connector was half melted and fused together), and the OEM regulator was governing the voltage all right with the exception of the 14.9V that seemed to happen after I installed the new battery.

Thanks in advance.

Marty

[FJ1100mjk]

Hello:

Used the Files section to install the Transpo Voltage Regulator after deeming the OEM one puked. Found a place for it under the rear fender cover/cowl, and mounted it using a crudely fashioned bracket out of 1.5" X 1.5" X 0.125" angle aluminum. \

Mounted the bracket with a couple of M6 fasteners, putting them through a couple of existing holes in the rear subframe's rear lateral brace, and used large OD flat washers and hex nuts with Loktite to secure.

Marty

Transpo Install Pic - Top View

http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1388_03_09_13_3_44_15.jpeg

Transpo Install Pic - Side View

http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1388_03_09_13_3_50_08.jpeg

Transpo Install Pic - Rear View

http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1388_03_09_13_3_45_07.jpeg

[jscgdunn]

Hi,
Thanks for putting this up.  Could you please let us know exactly which regulator and source.  I can see by boiling batteries that this is not uncommon.

Thanks again,

Jeff

[Travis398]

Nice  what do those things sell for? fixed voltage?

[FJ1100mjk]

Hi:

Thanks. I installed it prior to my 1,100 mile weekend, and it worked fine. The voltage never went above 14.4V, even at triple digit speeds, and I never touched the adjustment on it prior to its install.

The model number that I purchased was Transpo (Bosch) IB301A, and it is adjustable. There is another that is non-adjustable (set to 14.3V), and its Transpo (Bosch) part number is IB303.

I purchased two of the one that I installed for $51. Delivered. I purchased them from Alternater and Starter Parts Wholesale.

http://www.aspwholesale.com

Marty

[racerrad8]

Man, that is quite a lot of work, and requires running the wiring externally of the alternator.

The adjustable regulator is also prone to failure as the adjusting dial switch is not water tight and moisture can create problems.

Here is the RPM/ES internal regulator that requires no external wiring, only the removal of the O.E regulator and bolting the new one in.

RPM/ES ND Internal Regulator

Randy - RPM

[jscgdunn]

sold   next order. Jeff

[FJ1100mjk]

Man, that is quite a lot of work, and requires running the wiring externally of the alternator.

Quite a lot of work, not really. I have to disagree with your statement. Quite a lot of work in my opinion is:

1. Removal and installation of the carbs with the stock airbox.

2. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances.

3. Removal, disassembly, cleaning, installation of new seals (maybe bushings too), and complete reassembly of the front forks.

4. Removal of wheels, installing and balancing your own tires, and reassembly of the wheels back onto the bike.

5. Grafting of USD forks to the bike.

6. Insertion of your favorite Rite of Passage to FJ ownership task/project, goes here.

The adjustable regulator is also prone to failure as the adjusting dial switch is not water tight and moisture can create problems.

What do you base this statement upon? Using Google and the search engine on this site, I could not find anyone stating a failure (who on this site, installed this particular voltage regulator), and this, going back a good number of years. It would be interesting to hear from others on this site who installed the Bosch IB301A, and had a failure, and their reasons or opinions for its failure.

I found one statement on a BMW Owners Group forum http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?68612-Gen-light-on-WTF regarding one failure by a poster named "beemerPhil". However, he goes on to state: "I've installed quite a few of these, and seen only one failure over many years-". I could not find any other references online to failure where this particular voltage regulator appears to be used with success in a number of similar, but non-FJ applications.

The location where I placed my installation, and as anyone else who has been in this area already knows, is pretty much immune from water splash, and is about as dry as a popcorn fart, so I'm pretty confident of not worrying about water ingress, at least from leakage due to wash down or splashing.

If susceptibility to moisture is of major concern or worry, the non-adjustable version (Bosch IB303) could be used.

the RPM/ES internal regulator that requires no external wiring, only the removal of the O.E regulator and bolting the new one in.

Agreed.

The needs for external wiring and the hand-fabricated bracket for the Transpo voltage regulator installation was not all that hard or complex.

I'll venture to say that anyone who has purchased old used bikes for a good price, and that are in need of much TLC to get sorted out, has the wherewithal, tools and abilities to do the Transpo installation. I have acquired the necessary skills, tools, supplies for doing wiring (like many here), and have done many of the popular electrical accessories installs, and electrical modifications on the FJ's, and other bikes. Running 30" of wiring, snipping a couple of existing wires, and applying the appropriate connectors properly, was easy peasy compared to the other electrical work that was done.

In regards to resurrecting old bikes, and to others such as myself who take some pride and satisfaction in doing so, there's is always hard work and a lot of head scratching involved, so we're used to it. Like others who suffer from this, we are also keen to our budgets for doing this, and strive to save money where we can so that we can better finance other needed repair and restore areas of our project(s). The RPM/ES internal voltage regulator is a great solution to a failed OEM one, but comes at a premium when compared to the price of a Transpo external voltage regulator ($78.99 vs. $19.86). The cost savings realized by doing the Transpo mod, allows me (and others if pursued) to purchase other items while holding a budget, such as I have done from RPM in the past, and will do so in the near future (please see my reply to my "Annoying Oil Leak post).

Regards,
Marty

[racerrad8]

Man, that is quite a lot of work, and requires running the wiring externally of the alternator.

Quite a lot of work, not really. I have to disagree with your statement....

The adjustable regulator is also prone to failure as the adjusting dial switch is not water tight and moisture can create problems.

What do you base this statement upon?
Marty

Marty,

I am glad you found the upgrade easy and I understand your position and not agreeing with my statement. I am glad you found a good dry place for your regulator and I believe it will work well for you. Based on your documented skill set, you found that modification easy but there and many out there that cannot easily do what you did.

I personally would not find the job you did or any other jobs you listed difficult, but with my skill set I do all of the them regularly, with the exclusion of #6...

As far as the concern of the regulator, I have personally seen two bikes with that regulator installed and one is here at the shop now. That one works fine and the other bike that had one had failed. I will say that the one that failed was mounted with the adjustable switch pointing up and could easily hold water. The other issue is that both of the other regulators are mounted down low below the side panel towards the rear tire. One of the bikes is seldomly ridden in the rain and is mounted with the adjustment knob vertically.

Since you mounted yours upside down I can't see an issue with water ever being able to penetrate the switch. I hope there is never a time where the terminals get hot enough to lose the spring tension resulting is a loose connection with high resistance and completely falling off.

So, based on my experience that regulator you used is 50/50. Sure the mounting had much to do with the failure, but the RPM/ES regulator was installed as a replacement; it works perfectly and no maintenance/adjustment or worry of water is present.

So far to date my success rate of the RPM/ES regulators is 100% with the 57 sold or installed by RPM to date.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Over the years I have gone thru 2 internal regulators on my '84, and when the second one failed and smoked my Westco AGM  I wanted to try something different.
I decided to use the external Transpo because I have the opinion (right or wrong) that the root cause of failure of the internal regulators was due to long term exposure to engine heat and excessive vibration.
The location I chose under the right side panel, removed these stresses from the regulator.

Yes, you do want to install the Transpo is such a way that it does not pool water. The wiring is no big deal.

[racerrad8]

Over the years I have gone thru 2 internal regulators on my '84...

Stock regulators or RPM/ES style regulators?

(I know they aren't mine because that was before I was around or selling them)

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

I'm going by memory, but I dealt with my stock regulator boiling my battery dry (intermittently) for about 10 years, then in the mid 90's I retrofitted a Kawasaki (internal) regulator which worked for about another 10 years, then after the Westco incident $$ (fuck, that still pisses me off) I went with the Transpo in 2005.

The office worker shouts out his window to the guy falling....."How are you doing?"
The guy replies "So far, so good..."

[FJ1100mjk]

Randy and Pat:

Thank you both for your feedback and observations regarding the Transpo voltage regulator. From the information that you've provided, it appears that both the Transpo and the RPM/ES voltage regulators are viable alternatives to a failed OEM VR, with the selection of either alternative governed by a number of factors, which seemed to be explored and exhausted now. The reader and potential installer just needs filter through all of the above to reach their conclusions and make their decision.

When it comes to the concern of the connectors getting hot on the Transpo, suffering heat stress and falling off, I'm not sure that will happen. The ones on my install showed no sign off this. And this was after the installations maiden voyage, that entailed a lot of long distance, high speed riding. My best guess would be nearly a 1,000 miles of it, broken down into intervals of +200 miles. I'm no charging system guru, nor do I have a complete unnderstanding of each component's design, but I believe that it is the rectifier and not the voltage regulator that is the charging system's component that gets hot.

When it comes to connectors and connections, I think that much of their success in usage is using the correct one and size for the job, the quality of the connector itself, proper preparation for its install, and of course, proper/correct installation of the connector with proper/correct quality tools.

In closing, I would like to thank all who contributed to this posting and have found it hopeful.

Marty

[racerrad8]

When it comes to connectors and connections, I think that much of their success in usage is using the correct one and size for the job, the quality of the connector itself, proper preparation for its install, and of course, proper/correct installation of the connector with proper/correct quality tools.

Marty

There are no truer words spoken; the proper quality and correct product installed correct will always win over cheap & improper applications.

Randy - RPM

[RichBaker]

I'm no charging system guru, nor do I have a complete unnderstanding of each component's design, but I believe that it is the rectifier and not the voltage regulator that is the charging system's component that gets hot.

When it comes to connectors and connections, I think that much of their success in usage is using the correct one and size for the job, the quality of the connector itself, proper preparation for its install, and of course, proper/correct installation of the connector with proper/correct quality tools.

Marty

As an electronics Tech, for the past 30 years, I can state unequivocally that BOTH components get hot....  As far as the connectors and connections, the liberal use of dielectric grease will help prevent the connectors from becoming resistive, which is what causes them to get hot.
I'm not a big fan of soldered connections in a high vibration environment, the wires tend to break at the solder joint....  Usually not a concern with the soldered connections at the stock VR/rect.