Moditus attack - Fazer 1000 swingarm mod

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks for the pictures....Yea, those axle blocks look correct.
When I get back to the desert, I'll check my axle length to see if it's the same condition as yours.
Looking at your picture with the swingarm in a rested state (untorqued) can be misleading. Once you torque that axle nut up to specifications (80 ft.lbs?) that swing arm assembly is going to squeeze and perhaps the diameter of the hole in your axle block will be correct to accommodate the large diameter of the axle.

The offset on the index marks you show, looks to be approximately what I found on my TAce swing arm.
This was after very careful rear-front wheel alignment measurements. I used two 7 foot long pieces of dead straight square steel tubing which I clamped one to each side of my back tire. I checked and double checked my measurements......Yep, my index marks were off...

I think that if other bike owners would check the discrepancy of the index marks with the front/back tire perfectly aligned, they would be surprised.

The screwdriver handle trick shown in the above Motion Pro video is something I've used for years. I use a wood dowel instead. You have got to be assured that those axle blocks are pulled snug against the heads of the adjustment bolts.

Hope this helps.   Pat

[Pat Conlon]

....... I wonder if the block on the nut side has a taper to match the axial...

I don't recall a taper on mine.
If it were tapered wouldn't it bind on the axle as the axle nut was torqued?

[Harvy]

Is the Axle nut pulled up tight in this picture?

My 2003 FZ1 axle is 4 or 5 threads further exposed.

The other pictures are in agreement with mine.

Cheers
Harvy

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Yes, it is tight. And still plenty thread under axle block.

Today after  road test I can tell:  success!!! 

I visited my local garage and laser test says that between CS sprocket and rear sprocket is 1-2 mm misalignment so in future I will mill down rear sprocket holder. Or should I leave it?

[Harvy]

Yes, it is tight. And still plenty thread under axle block.

Today after  road test I can tell:  success!!! 

I visited my local garage and laser test says that between CS sprocket and rear sprocket is 1-2 mm misalignment so in future I will mill down rear sprocket holder. Or should I leave it?

Did you flip the wheel sprocket? Are you using the Honda VF1000R c/s sprocket with the outer face machined off so that the c/s nut and washer fit onto the c/s thread?

Harvy

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Time for review:

This mode is awesome 

Together with new tyre it is like totally different bike. Especially with passenger.



Now time to few words about problems which I had:

- noisy chain..... After all, it looks like new chain and sprocket is so quiet that I can hear some howling noise from gearbox, especially on 4th gear on 40-60 km/h speed. I just ignore it now.
- bike is a little bit higher now so I changed sidestand for R6 sidestand. Now is perfect.
- After unscrew one of adjusting screws 1,5 mm further, alignment is perfect. Sprocket alignment - I believe is also OK.
- Rear axle is exactly 34 cm long. So far I don't know if that is axle from Fazer 1000 or other model.... Maybe someone from You know what length is proper?

[fj johnnie]

 I have the same set up as you. FZ 1 axle is exactly as yours looks. I don't loosen my axle nut completely when tightening the chain because that axle is tapered at the end. It moves the wheel relative to the block as you tighten the nut. The taper in the axle is what causes this movement. I have never used the markings on the swing arm.  I usually measure the distance from the axle block to the swing arm end.
Good tire choice by the way.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

No riding, no sun, just rain..... so I have another plan...... Gear indicator.  

First step is neutral gear position sensor modification. So I have two questions:

-Should I first drain oil from engine before I will remove neutral sensor? Or I can just unscrew it without oil waterfall.....
-I don know what should I use as connectors.... nails or screws. So far my plan is use M2 screws.....

[fj1289]

No riding, no sun, just rain..... so I have another plan...... Gear indicator.  

First step is neutral gear position sensor modification. So I have two questions:

-Should I first drain oil from engine before I will remove neutral sensor? Or I can just unscrew it without oil waterfall.....
-I don know what should I use as connectors.... nails or screws. So far my plan is use M2 screws.....

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ADGIU

Not cheap...but probably cheaper by the time you get a reliable alternative figured out...