Moditus attack - Fazer 1000 swingarm mod

[Prototype4342]

I used longer dogbones from  Fazer 600 and swingarm is in very similar position as original FJ swingarm - So during ride slack will be not affected.

Suspension compression will always change the chain slack. You have to set chain slack on the loose side when the bike is on the stand because once the bike is on the ground the chain will tighten slightly, and moreso with you sitting on the bike. Really doesn't matter what suspension linkages you used as every bike acts this way.

[FJmonkey]

If you center stand your bike, use a strap of some kind to compress the rear swing arm so it is level with the ground, the chain will be at its tightest point. It is way too much trouble for me to do that, I took Randy's advise and just leave it a little more loose than you think it should be. I readjust the chain about every 3K, not that it needs it but that's when I have to change the rear tire.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Due to very bad flu I have not much update.  

But:

- Chain slack for FZ1 is 4-5 cm so I left 4 cm. For check it I simply unscrewed dog bones and moved swingarm up and down.

- I did alignment test as Pat suggested.
After two hours with fishing line and measuring tape in hand I discovered, that rear wheel is not in line with front one...... - for keep it straight regulation screw on left side of swingarm (from chain side) must be screwed out 1,5 mm further that the right one. That could be reason for problem with chain slack on one side rear sprocket - after regulation chain seats much better on rear sprocket - no slack on one side only.
I have no idea what that mean and how bad 1,5mm is..... Worst scenario: frame or swingarm is bend......



After all that measurements flu attacked and I am away from bike.

[FJmonkey]

I have no idea what that mean and how bad 1,5mm is..... Worst scenario: frame or swingarm is bend......

The alignment marks in the swing arm have been reported to be off. I used to measure how far out the adjusting screws were on each side with calipers. Now I use the MotionPro tool, very quick and easy. Mount to the rear sprocket, visually align the rod on the tool with the chain and set chain slack. That is it. Tighten up the rear and make one last check for alignment and slack then remove the tool and ride it!

MotionPro how to video

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Mark, cool video.

This Motion Pro tool assumes that your counter shaft sprocket and rear sprocket are aligned and not offset from each other.
**For me**, this condition is hard to tell with the chain installed. With the chain off and a laser tool (or long straight edge) you can easily see any offset. So get the back wheel straight then the check offset...
if ok go ahead and install the chain and use the MP tool for your rear wheel alignment.

[FJmonkey]

Pat, you are correct. The MotionPro tool assumes the sprockets are already in alignment like an un-modified bike. We have plenty here like you and I that no longer have the OEM set up.

[X-Ray]

The motion pro tool does work well, very cheap to buy.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Small update:

Adjusting screw on chain side  is screwed out 1,5mm further than this on brake disc side and:

- front and rear wheel is aligned.
- wheel is centred in swingarm.
- chain seats on rear sprocket as it should, no slack just on one side.
- chain is quiet and sound just like chain with no load.

No road test done. Proper wheels alignment and wheel centred in swingarm for me mean that swingarm and frame is straight.

But still big question: if everything looks OK why I have 1,5mm difference on swingarm marks?
For me it is to big difference for ignore it. I know that until I solve it, ride will be no pleasure for me.....

[Pat Conlon]

....But still big question: if everything looks OK why I have 1,5mm difference on swingarm marks?
For me it is to big difference for ignore it. I know that until I solve it, ride will be no pleasure for me.....

.... Note that the index marks on the swing arm blocks are not that accurate. You will see what I mean. Write down the difference between the left and right side index marks for you to use as a future reference.....

Now you know. Now you can compensate for it. Don't worry about it....Ride that fucker.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Now you know. Now you can compensate for it. Don't worry about it....Ride that fucker.

I wish to forget. But voice in my head will not let me.....

And today I think I found reason for misalignment:



It looks like axle is to short .....
Square piece of aluminium which seats there on axle is not deep enough on the axle and that causes problem. due to lower diameter in this place axle can move back 1,5 mm and with axle whole wheel. So that why I have to compensate.
Now I have to find out why axle is to short.

[Pat Conlon]

Interesting.

On my T-Ace swing arm conversion I got the entire assembly, wheel, spacers, cush hub, caliper bracket, axle and axle blocks all together as one unit. Everything is stock (other than shortening the pivot tube) No special spacers, etc, are needed.

Are you a using different axle (or axle blocks) than what came on the 2004 FZ-1 swingarm?

[MOTOMYSZOR]

It is swingarm and axle with axle blocks from photo in my very first post in this topic.  In theory it comes from this same motorbike....

[Pat Conlon]

If you get a chance, post a picture of your left and right axle blocks.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

   

[FJmonkey]

The pics show two different adjusting blocs, that is good. The parts lists on line also two different part numbers. I wonder if the block on the nut side has a taper to match the axial...

I am getting involved because I have a swing arm I want to put on my '86. These details will help.