Clutch slave rep. kit : Wich one ?

[Tor-King]

Any type of brake cleaner for rotors/calipers would work.  I like using the Gunk cleaner.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Flush the system with isopropyl alcohol.  Being water based, it will flush the residual DOT 3/4 and evaporate quickly.

Blow off with compressed air.

[PaulG]

I wonder if I'm the odd man out here.  I bought my '92 FJ in '07 with about 70,000 km on it.  It now has about 240,000 km on it.  I have yet to take the clutch slave apart.  Other than bleeding every couple of years I haven't touched it, and I doubt the three PO's before did anything, judging by the state of the bike when I got it.

I did buy a rebuild kit for it when I rebuilt the brakes during the winter of '07/'08, but never got around to doing anything with it.  I'm afraid that if I did service it, then it would start pissing out fluid.  So I'm letting sleeping dogs lie for now.  I'm due for a valve clearance check/adjustment this winter so maybe I'll get around to it then... maybe... possibly... 

It must have been built on a Wednesday I think.

[Pat Conlon]

The bleed port on the slave is at the top of the chamber. Makes sense because that's where the air is...
Water however collects at the bottom of the chamber.
What I do is to unbolt the slave (leave line attached) and flip it upside down. I leave it that way for a day or two so the water collects now at the top, by the bleed port. Open up the port and out comes the water.

[Tor-King]

Pat, that is an awesome tip-- thanks!  I am going to do that when it is time for a fluid change.

Dean

[rktmanfj]

What I tried last time (remember, it's DOT5, so no paint issues) was left the s/c bleed nipple closed, and filled the m/c until fluid came out of the line.  Then I put the cover on the m/c and filled the s/c through the banjo bolt hole (straight up), attached the line finger tight, bolted on the s/c. and tightened the line.  Just a few strokes of the lever to bleed the tiny bit of air out.

[X-Ray]

Good tip Randy. I know when I installed my new slave cylinder a few months back I spent ages filling/reverse filling/spilling/swearing to get pressure at the lever. It was messy. Totally drained blue spots on the other hand are a cinch 

But yes, after 3 seal kits in a period of 4 years, then its time to bin the old, put on a new.

[ribbert]

Paul, no I don't think you're the odd man out. Left alone, with regular fluid changes, it should last a very long time. I've been through more engines (literally) than slave cylinders.

Pat, if you fit a SS liner you pretty much eliminate seal replacement as well.

Mark, choosing brake fluid based on mitigating damage next time it fails. The slave should only be something you need to do once of maybe twice in the entire life of the bike.

For those that can't be bothered changing to or don't like Dot 5, Dot 3 & 4 continue to be developed and are vastly improved and less corrosive than the stuff we were putting in our bikes years ago.

As Bill said, do it once, do it right, then forget about it for the next few hundred thousand km's.

And for those having bleeding difficulties, the FJ clutch will self bleed quite quickly with a bit of use. If you can get enough clutch to get it out the door, it will come good.

Noel

[Jeff0308]

Clutch mastercylinders and slaves can be bought through Yamaha still. New. I just got mine about 2 months ago. Mastercylinder was knackered