On various spots on the bike there is a little creeping corrosion, its is mostly around the rear foot plate, but there is some also on the shiney engine parts. My question for those that know is, do the shiney bits have any sorts of lacquer on them or can I just start trying to work the corrosion out straight from the get go?
My '92 had a laquer over all shiny bits... HTH
James
clear coating on pretty much every alloy part, comes off fairly easy with wet&dry, start with a 6 or 800 clean up with 1200 finish with 1500 then polish,, easier ways to do it though,, wait for pat to chime in
Rather than sanding the clear coat off, use a thick bodied paint stripper. Much easier. Apply very carefully. Mask off any adjacent painted areas. The clear coat will bubble right up then you wash it off with water.
That way you can move directly to the Simichrome polishing stages, rather than progressive sanding out the scratches you made on the soft aluminum.
Works like a charm..... Happy polishing.... Cheers!
Did I hear someome say, "polish!" :crazy: :wacko2: :yahoo:
awww hell, that just tooo bloody easy,,
When reapplying the lacquer how Likly is it that you will see the join between the old and the new? If using stripper rather than sanding, you can feather in with sanding but can't with paint stripper!
First off, don't use lacquer, use a urethane clear coat or better yet, a oven cured powder clear coat.
Second, your old weathered clear coat will look different than your new clear coat, so you will want to do the entire piece anyway.
Third, it will just be a matter of time 'till you get a chip or nick in your new clear coat where the corrosion will start and spread under the coating and you will have to start the process all over.
That's why I leave mine uncoated (Zoop sealed), but then again, I live in the dry desert. Every clear coat I have tried yellowed after 3 to 4 years....the sun takes no prisoners....
I agree with leaving the polished AL. uncoated. A little dab of semi chrome and polish once in awhile is all you need. Paint grade clear coats on AL will pit, peel and turn yellow. Very difficult to get long term adhesion to AL. with auto grade clear paints.
Today I pulled off my header pipes and had to remove one AL side plate so there they are in a pile, on the ground along with the AL swing arm.... UMMMM.... How many hours is going to consume ?
George
I don't think I will ever do another aluminum swing arm again... Ever.
I'll send it out....pay my money and have someone else do it.
The silver anodizing was a absolute bitch to cut thru....
Hint: Leave the silver anodizing on the pivot/shock area, the bottom edge and inside face of the arms and just polish the visible outside face and top edge of the arm....even still it was some work...uuuuggh.
Thanks. Advice taken.. I didn't realize it was silver anodized. Thought it was just factory clear coated. Tomorrow I will just clean it up as best I can and move my polishing thoughts on..... Any advise on the header pipes. I think they are S.S. the bike is a 1990. It is never going to be a show bike, I am just trying to clean it up while its apart.
As a general note I am replacing the relay arm bearings. So I go to a dealers web site to get the part number so I could tap Randy for the bearings and I noticed that the bearings are "on sale". I will throw out whats the reason for putting these "on sale" ? I believe there is a possability of them being closed out an soon no longer available.
Now the smaller bearings that support the shock, there is a possable HK bearing fit (yet to be determined, it is on order). Hk 1816 18 ID 24 OD and 16mm long which if it works will be a better bearing due to the increased length. Those small bearings takes a beating and in a high corrosion zone.
The kicker is the larger bearing in the arm is mfg by Koyo and is not available though a bearing supply channel, at least here and not from Koyo direct. It is a none standard size. 24 mm OD / 17mm ID and 30mm wide / sealed on one end.
The same bearing I think is used in the swing arm. Yamaha #93317-41761-00... Hope Randy has a few on hand for the future. It is just on of those parts to keep an eye for "no longer available" and no outside replacement... Randy might have more info on the future of this part.
Sorry for the long post.... George
Yes, your '90's header tubes are stainless and will polish up quite nicely...We talked about polishing our stainless header tubes here:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6983.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6983.0)
Get the right tools for the job and it is easy...(Thanks again Leon)
Again, just like aluminum, don't sand or wire brush the stainless, it just makes extra work for you getting the scratches out.
Take the paint off with cutting compound and a (high speed) buffing wheel.
Happy polishing. Cheers!
TNX Pat
George
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 30, 2013, 11:00:38 PM
Yes, your '90's header tubes are stainless and will polish up quite nicely...We talked about polishing our stainless header tubes here:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6983.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6983.0)
Get the right tools for the job and it is easy...(Thanks again Leon)
Again, just like aluminum, don't sand or wire brush the stainless, it just makes extra work for you getting the scratches out.
Take the paint off with cutting compound and a (high speed) buffing wheel.
Happy polishing. Cheers!
I found wet & dry under a running tap pretty efficient. It was very fast and the pipe below went straight from the wet/dry to the buffing wheel and I only used one compound. No mess, very quick, no scratching. I love the result but decided not to fit them to the bike.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7278/7549156726_fe12d04b11_c.jpg)
Noel
remember seeing those last time ,, think i should tidy up the ss ones i have and fit them to the stock 84, should look ok with the micron ss slip on cans
Quote from: movenon on January 30, 2013, 10:32:23 PM
Hope Randy has a few on hand for the future. It is just on of those parts to keep an eye for "no longer available" and no outside replacement... Randy might have more info on the future of this part.
I currently have eight (8) in stock. I did not have any issue ordering them. I will inquire the next time they are ordered.
I replied to your email as well.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy. I will be camped out on the mailbox :).
I made an error in my statement "the smaller bearings that support the shock, there is a possable HK bearing fit (yet to be determined, it is on order). Hk 1816 18 ID 24 OD and 16mm long which if it works will be a better bearing due to the increased length. Those small bearings takes a beating and in a high corrosion zone. "
To correct things, the smaller bearings in the relay arm are on the end that bolts to the bike frame. The larger ones are where the dogbones attache. Went down to the local boat store and bought a tube of YamahaLube marine grease. Nice and water resistant sticky stuff.
Pat: Takes more time to remove the header pipe coating than to polish them :)). Something to do while waiting for parts to arrive....
George
Quote from: movenon on February 01, 2013, 10:39:49 PM
Pat: Takes more time to remove the header pipe coating than to polish them :)). Something to do while waiting for parts to arrive....
George
It's not that hard, how are you removing it?
Noel
I used 320 wet or dry lightly sanding to get rid of most of the black. Tomorrow I will hit it with some 400 and 800. I polished a small area with the buffer and stainless cutting compound and WOW it shines right up... I tried some paint stripper and that was a waist of time but I had to give it a try.
I agree it's not that hard but it looks like it will polish up faster.... I am using an air polisher/grinder turning around up to 20,000 RPM with some grey stainless cutting compound. I think that I have some white compound out in the shop somewhere also.
I was surprised how easy the headers came off. I was expecting to fight with the stud's, which turned out to be cap's/nuts.
George
....and thus it begins....bwhaaaahaaahaaa....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 03, 2013, 11:09:25 AM
....and thus it begins....bwhaaaahaaahaaa....
I know, I know.... Its always something...... If you would go throw some mud and oil on your bike so I couldn't see all that shinny stuff life would have been better for me.....
You think I would fix my small mechanical issues first, but, oh no I got to polish first...... I guess if it looks a little better I will be motivated to fix the other stuff. Its a financial and time trap :).
George
Quote from: movenon on February 04, 2013, 09:17:33 AM
... but, oh no I got to polish first...... George
:hi: Careful George...someone, can't remember who off hand, just warned me about this ... I believe it is known as a 'moditus hazard' :rofl2: :rofl: :lol:... :biggrin:
John.
It's real ! I am living it..... I want company...... :).
George
Quote from: movenon on February 04, 2013, 05:28:26 PM
It's real ! I am living it..... I want company...... :). George
:rofl2: :biggrin: :rofl: :biggrin: OK, ok...I'll be your polishing soul mate George :rofl2: :lol: :rofl:
John.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 29, 2013, 10:39:17 PM
That way you can move directly to the Simichrome polishing stages, rather than progressive sanding out the scratches you made on the soft aluminum.
How much simichrome would you estimate needing to do both the foot peg plates?
One other thought! Given some of the intricate detail, such as the 'corrugated' pattern that the passengers toes sit on, which is where some of the corrosion has started, would I be better off using something like a dremel rather that a polishing mop in my bench grinder?
I painted them a satin black and just polished the ridges. If I did want to polish them, my Dremel would be the tool of choice with this felt tip;
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=422 (http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=422)
(http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/r19788v15.jpg)
For the aluminum side plates, if you wet finish it with 2000 grit wet/dry about 1/2 to 3/4 tube should do it...
However, for years now, I buy Simichrome by the can, not tube...
(http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server1400/852ec/products/80/images/157/390250__77193.1298133144.200.200.jpg)
http://www.marbeck.com/simichrome-metal-polish-8-82-oz-250-gram-can-390250/?gclid=CJWouKnZorUCFciDQgod_m8ADQ (http://www.marbeck.com/simichrome-metal-polish-8-82-oz-250-gram-can-390250/?gclid=CJWouKnZorUCFciDQgod_m8ADQ)
Cheers!
Today's project. About 30min work on each with a 1/4 " air grinder with polishing wheel. Used some grey stainless cutting compound. Next some white compound then semi chrome....
Then side plates........ Then ??
George
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_08_02_13_6_06_59.jpeg)
C,Mon ppl, if you keep posting pics of polished ss pipes , ill have to do mine out of guilt :biggrin:
I am with you dude, that would look way better if I could just pull them off and do the F%$N work, awesome look... Priorities, ride first, polish later....
I have a small advantage , pipes are just sitting in the shed ,, so just need to polish them up , and swap them onto the ambulance
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 08, 2013, 07:39:49 PM
Priorities, ride first, polish later....
No money for priorities, only polish and cheap beer on hand..... :wacko2:
Quote from: movenon on February 08, 2013, 07:07:31 PM
........Next some white compound then semi chrome.... Then side plates........ Then ??
Very cool George...you're doing it right to get the deep luster out of those stainless tubes....overall, in the long run, using the grey cutting compound is less time consuming than sanding off the paint, then having to progressively sand out all the scratches....
Sure is nice having the right tools huh? Do be careful when you get to the soft aluminum pieces.
Good job... Cheers!
It kept the air compressor running alright. It didn't take to long to polish them up to where you see it now. Thanks for the help.
I stripped one of the AL sides off today and will start on it tomorrow.
Got the shock mounted and started cleaning up the swingarm. Taking your advise and not stripping/polishing that, just clean it up and shine a bit.
George
Quote from: movenon on February 08, 2013, 07:07:31 PM
Today's project. About 30min work on each with a 1/4 " air grinder with polishing wheel. Used some grey stainless cutting compound. Next some white compound then semi chrome....
Then side plates........ Then ??
George
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_08_02_13_6_06_59.jpeg)
Is this what our FJ headers look like under the paint?? I took mine off today to get started on the oil cooler mod, and was thinking about redoing the hi temp black paint I did a few years ago. But now I'm thinking of going the silver ceramic coating look. Theres a few places around me that do this a lot. will have to ring them next week and check the pricing.
[quote
Is this what our FJ headers look like under the paint?? I took mine off today to get started on the oil cooler mod, and was thinking about redoing the hi temp black paint I did a few years ago. But now I'm thinking of going the silver ceramic coating look. Theres a few places around me that do this a lot. will have to ring them next week and check the pricing.
[/quote]
Only certain years and truthfully I don't know the exact years. Mine is 1990. That was a special coating the Yamaha put on. Probably designed to radiate more heat off. I remember along the way reading what Yamaha called it. It was one of there selling points. I don't push mine that hard and I just like the shinny look.
I would think the silver ceramic coating would look great and probably be more maint. free. But that's only "thinking", I have no real experience with the coating.
Polishing these up will require more effort to keep them shinny. You could sand off a small section of your pipe and see whats under the coating.
I took one day and sanded mine with 320 to start/ then 400 and to 800. Next day I polished with S.S. compound. And that's where you see them now.
Are you done with all the good weather yet ? Please send it back home :).
George
Quote from: movenon on February 09, 2013, 08:13:58 AM
[quote
I took one day and sanded mine with 320 to start/ then 400 and to 800. Next day I polished with S.S. compound. And that's where you see them now.
George
I still say you're making hard work of it.
1200 wet/dry under a running tap then straight to the rag wheel, I grade of polish only, absolutely no scratching.
If I were going to fit them I might have used a couple of grades of polish and spent a bit more time on that.
My fairing screen which is as clear as glass went straight from 1 grade of wet and dry, to 2 grades of polish and that's plastic.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7278/7549156726_fe12d04b11_c.jpg)
I didn't have any scratching to speak of. The pipes benefited from some smoothing out. I started off with 1000 and went to the compound but it seemed like it took a lot of time just to get the black coating off so I dropped back to 320/400/800. I spent most of the time with the 320 getting the coating off after that I just hit it with the lighter grade stuff for a few min and on to compound. I spent about 4 or 5 hours removing the black and about 3 hours polishing. I will spend another day probably shinning it up a bit more with white compound and semi chrome. Good "enuf" for a street runner.
later in the summer I will have to pull them off again to replace some badly needed valve stem seals. Then I will have another opportunity to dress them up again !
I also have 2 AL. F1 mufflers to work on if I get the time. Its still cold here so I am not motivated to go out in the garage for long periods. In another few weeks we will get some sunshine and things will warm up.
George
Don't you guys have wood heating in the garage :biggrin: / shed
George, are polishing by machine or hand?'
Noel
I got a 30,000 portable propane heater out there but the garage is over 1200 sq feet X 10' tall, it takes a long time to warm it up. If I have to spend next winter here I will install a 50,000 BTU natural gas overhead infrared heater so I can spot heat my work area. I love wood heat but it makes a mess and takes time to stoke up. Not to mention when its time to quit you still have to monitor it.
Noel, I used a cheap 1/4" air grinder from Harbor Freight. Turns 20,000 RPM Max. I ran about 90lbs air pressure to cut the speed down. I think if you were to nit pick you should run the wheel at around 8-9000 RPM to best cut Stainless. The buffing wheels were from Harbor Freight also they were about 2 inch's in diameter.
If you don't have an air compressor capable of driving an air tool continuously for a few hours then I would recommend you convert/use a bench grinder with a 6 to 8 inch rags wheel or locate a 3/4 plus hp electric motor and put an adapter on the shaft. Try to use some compound designed for S.S. if you can. Sorry about the long answer :).
George
Spot on George. This is my weapon of choice for polishing. As with any polishing, sanding, grinding, painting etc the biggest tool you can practically use is going to give the best results, a smoother more uniform finish. It will also make the job a lot quicker.
Dremels are for working on chess pieces or doing your own dental work in the mirror.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8372/8459327173_ba40e6125b_c.jpg)
Noel
cool, i need a bench grinder :good2:,, hell george, thats not a shed its a workshop, my largest shed is only 4 x 3.5 meters, the wood heater only needs to be just going or it gets rather warm, , in the process of moving house, , new place has a full size double garage , a 10 x 5 meter shed, plus an old open barn thing, so no shortage of space with my two sheds as well :biggrin:
A bench grinder works good. That would be my preference. You can use almost any motor that you can bolt down. They make adapters that attach to the shaft with a spiral cone on the end to use spin on pads. Look back at Pats post he has some links there for suppliers. The longer the shaft out the motor the better. Take a look at dedicated metal buffs and you get the idea. Years ago I just used a washing machine motor for polishing. Restored a bunch of 55 - 57 Chevy's and they had a lot of S.S. to polish. That was a long time ago. That's why I had a large bar of SS compound on hand.
George
Quote from: movenon on February 09, 2013, 11:17:03 PM
A bench grinder works good. That would be my preference. You can use almost any motor that you can bolt down. They make adapters that attach to the shaft with a spiral cone on the end to use spin on pads. Look back at Pats post he has some links there for suppliers. The longer the shaft out the motor the better. Take a look at dedicated metal buffs and you get the idea. Years ago I just used a washing machine motor for polishing. Restored a bunch of 55 - 57 Chevy's and they had a lot of S.S. to polish. That was a long time ago. That's why I had a large bar of SS compound on hand.
George
Nobody loves good quality tools more than me and I enjoy making, adapting and recycling old components into new equipment. However, these days many cheap, crappy non precision tools provide excellent service, especially for home use. Bench grinders are so cheap it's no longer worth fiddling around making something up. I have angle grinders everywhere so I don't have to change wheels. Even cheap routers, rotary hammers etc. last forever and I use them for work.
BTW, I have in my past made many a workshop tool with washing machine / fridge motors and bearing blocks. Many of them would have the Work Safe guys going for their heart pills these days.
Noel
BTW, I have in my past made many a workshop tool with washing machine / fridge motors and bearing blocks. Many of them would have the Work Safe guys going for their heart pills these days."
Yes indeed Noel :) !!
George