Rear foot pegs, associated parts and other shiny bits

[nurse]

On various spots on the bike there is a little creeping corrosion, its is mostly around the rear foot plate, but there is some also on the shiney engine parts.  My question for those that know is, do the shiney bits have any sorts of lacquer on them or can I just start trying to work the corrosion out straight from the get go?

[tmkaos]

My '92 had a laquer over all shiny bits... HTH

James

[fj11.5]

clear coating on pretty much every alloy part, comes off fairly easy with wet&dry,  start with a 6 or 800 clean up with 1200 finish with 1500 then polish,, easier ways to do it though,, wait for pat to chime in

[Pat Conlon]

Rather than sanding the clear coat off, use a thick bodied paint stripper. Much easier. Apply very carefully. Mask off any adjacent painted areas. The clear coat will bubble right up then you wash it off with water.
That way you can move directly to the Simichrome polishing stages, rather than progressive sanding out the scratches you made on the soft aluminum.

Works like a charm..... Happy polishing.... Cheers!

[1tinindian]

Did I hear someome say, "polish!"

[fj11.5]

awww hell, that just tooo bloody easy,, 

[nurse]

When reapplying the lacquer how Likly is it that you will see the join between the old and the new? If using stripper rather than sanding, you can feather in with sanding but can't with paint stripper! 

[Pat Conlon]

First off, don't use lacquer, use a urethane clear coat or better yet, a oven cured powder clear coat.
Second, your old weathered clear coat will look different than your new clear coat, so you will want to do the entire piece anyway.
Third, it will just be a matter of time 'till you get a chip or nick in your new clear coat where the corrosion will start and spread under the coating and you will have to start the process all over.
That's why I leave mine uncoated (Zoop sealed), but then again, I live in the dry desert. Every clear coat I have tried yellowed after 3 to 4 years....the sun takes no prisoners....

[movenon]

I agree with leaving the polished AL. uncoated.  A little dab of semi chrome and polish once in awhile is all you need. Paint grade clear coats on AL will pit, peel and turn yellow. Very difficult to get long term adhesion to AL. with auto grade clear paints.
Today I pulled off my header pipes and had to remove one AL side plate so there they are in a pile, on the ground along with the AL swing arm.... UMMMM.... How many hours is going to consume ? 
George

[Pat Conlon]

I don't think I will ever do another aluminum swing arm again... Ever.
I'll send it out....pay my money and have someone else do it.
The silver anodizing was a absolute bitch to cut thru....
Hint: Leave the silver anodizing on the pivot/shock area, the bottom edge and inside face of the arms and just polish the visible outside face and top edge of the arm....even still it was some work...uuuuggh.

[movenon]

Thanks. Advice taken.. I didn't realize it was silver anodized. Thought it was just factory clear coated.  Tomorrow I will just clean it up as best I can and move my polishing thoughts on.....  Any advise on the header pipes. I think they are S.S. the bike is a 1990. It is never going to be a show bike, I am just trying to clean it up while its apart.

As a general note I am replacing the relay arm bearings. So I go to a dealers web site to get the part number so I could tap Randy for the bearings and I noticed that the bearings are "on sale". I will throw out whats the reason for putting these "on sale" ? I believe there is a possability of them being closed out an soon no longer available.
Now the smaller bearings that support the shock, there is a possable HK bearing fit (yet to be determined, it is on order). Hk 1816 18 ID 24 OD and 16mm long which if it works will be a better bearing due to the increased length. Those small bearings takes a beating and in a high corrosion zone. 

The kicker is the larger bearing in the arm is mfg by Koyo and is not available though a bearing supply channel, at least here and not from Koyo direct. It is a none standard size. 24 mm OD / 17mm ID and 30mm wide  / sealed on one end.
The same bearing I think is used in the swing arm. Yamaha #93317-41761-00... Hope Randy has a few on hand for the future. It is just on of those parts to keep an eye for "no longer available" and no outside replacement... Randy might have more info on the future of this part.

Sorry for the long post.... George

[Pat Conlon]

Yes, your '90's header tubes are stainless and will polish up quite nicely...We talked about polishing our stainless header tubes here:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6983.0

Get the right tools for the job and it is easy...(Thanks again Leon)

Again, just like aluminum, don't sand or wire brush the stainless, it just makes extra work for you getting the scratches out.
Take the paint off with cutting compound and a (high speed) buffing wheel.

Happy polishing.  Cheers!

[movenon]

TNX Pat

George

[ribbert]

Yes, your '90's header tubes are stainless and will polish up quite nicely...We talked about polishing our stainless header tubes here:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6983.0

Get the right tools for the job and it is easy...(Thanks again Leon)

Again, just like aluminum, don't sand or wire brush the stainless, it just makes extra work for you getting the scratches out.
Take the paint off with cutting compound and a (high speed) buffing wheel.

Happy polishing.  Cheers!

I found wet & dry under a running tap pretty efficient. It was very fast and the pipe below went straight from the wet/dry to the buffing wheel and I only used one compound.  No mess, very quick, no scratching.  I love the result but decided not to fit them to the bike.



Noel

[fj11.5]

remember seeing those last time ,, think i should tidy up the ss ones i have and fit them to the stock 84, should look ok with the micron ss slip on cans